What type of adhesive does everybody use for their boxes?

vehementSPL
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I always used wood glue, But lately I have become more fond of heavy duty liquid nails. Seems plenty strong, much easier to apply and fills big gaps if you have any, and I also wipe it on the inside instead of silicon.

Also anybody tried the PL or liquid nails Polyurethane I believe it is. It is the super heavy duty stuff.... If so? how does it work on mdf??? I believe the PL tube looks like yellow and red. Just wondered if there was a benefit to using this over standard liquid nails

 
The PL is the only construction adhesive I will use if I do use anything.The polyurethain is way stronger then the regular luquid nails.

However I never use this for regular box building only when doing extreme builds.The cost just isn't worth it plus my cuts are straight enough I don't need it:)

 
Titebond III and II. My cuts are always within 1/32" and the joints are inset 3/8" so there is no need for sealant on the inside.

Regular Liquid Nails is no where near as strong as the Titebond PVA glue but it will fill in gaps if you don't take your time and have shitty cuts. I have been able to tear liquid nail boxes apart by hand in the past but I have to use a mallet to tear apart PVA joined boxes.

 
i actually use both titebond and liquid nails. tite bond fiurst liquid nails to help make the seal. I also used liquid nails and fiberglass resin to seal my box to the rear of my cab of my truck...5 years no issue or leaks

 
So, I'm a bit of a woodworking on top of being a car audio fanatic and my Wood Magazine (May 2009) has an awesome article about wood glues.

But the bottom line is:

Type-3 wood glue [like Titebond and Elmers] holds up the best and Equals epoxy [or Gorilla Glue] without the mess.

BTW, I have heard of bombs made out of Liquid Nails. Use it as a seal in a sub box, seal the speaker opening up with the sub before the Liquid Nails has cured completely . . . add one little spark from a loose speaker wire terminal and watch as the sub cone becomes a projectile . . . and the flames shoot out of the box far enough to totally scorch the interior of the vehicle - - cool, but that's why we don't recommend constructing sub boxes using flammable glues.

You can buy the article here . . . http://www.woodstore.net/ouad.html

Think “outdoor adhesive” and the word “waterproof” may come to mind. But joints made with these adhesives need to survive more than mere rain. Climate extremes in parts of the U.S. go from subzero to 100+ degrees—challenging for any adhesive. To discover which adhesives stand up to Mother Nature, we tested four types of products—a type-3 waterproof glue, a type-2 water-resistant glue, epoxy, and polyurethane—on dozens of half-lap joints in cedar. So which of these adhesives worked the best? We think you’ll find our results quite interesting.

Featured in the May 2009 issue of WOOD.
 
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vehementSPL

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