What type of screws

[Mr FaceCaser]

I was wondering what kind of screws should I use when putting the box together (not holding the subs down the actual box) I'm gonna use wood glue or liquid nail and screws just to hold it together and to be safe.

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[YourNameHere 10+ year member]

None.....wood glue, clamps, and patience is all that is needed

 

[Mr FaceCaser]

None.....wood glue, clamps, and patience is all that is needed

I'm still using screws to be safe making the box has strong as possible

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Line them up with these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09V8B7ZJL/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Use these to countersink them

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VW4CHRM/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Tork'm

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1E8AJ8/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Use TIteBond or Gorilla

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083WG6STB/?tag=caraudiocom-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J1MJ28D/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[Deiimos]

I use Titebond II or Titebond III wood glue and a air power Brad or finish nailer. Quick, easy, tight reliable joints.

Apply the glue to the joint, clamp if needed to keep the panel aligned and fire the finish nails in. Give the glue a day to dry and you're done. No need for any crazy caulking afterwards, as long as the panels are relatively square, the glue will both bond them and seal very well. If there are big gaps in the joints you need to gob caulking into, the wood cutting stage was messed up. I'm assuming the GP cut box will be done well so this should not be a problem.

When I was younger I used loads of drywall screws and whatever sealer I could get, but the wood glue and thin nails is much better in my opinion.

Otherwise build it as the manufacturer recommends, I'm sure they have details on what they deem proper assembly for their design. Obviously if there are pre-drilled screw holes everywhere, you're not using a finish nailer. I have no experience with GP car audio, I've always cut / built boxes how I wanted to.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

I have always used SPAX screws as I don't have enough clamps or space to use clamps in my enclosures. Kreg screws for all my pocket holes. Titebond II for wood glue.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I use These with no need to counter sink.I use a cordless impact drill and they sink like butter. I buy a box of 100 usually and use construction type LocTite Power Grab and works great for me

Robot or human?

Robot or human?

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Consider this

The threaded part of a screw is designed to go into the 2nd layer.
The smooth part is designed to only go through the first and should only be long enough to do so.

Once the screw goes into the second piece deep enough for the smooth section to pass completely through the first layer only then does the clamping force happen.


With screws that are fully threaded what happens is that the layers can be pushed apart if not clamped during the screw insertion. If that happens yes you can tighten the screw and pull it back together but in the process one side of the 2 layers is stripping in order to pull the pieces tight. If it's the outer layer not really a problem but the inner layer is.

If using pocket holes I use the normal 1 1/4 kreg screws. But it's a pain in the but to drill the holes, clamp the pieces and the screw them together. So I only do that for jobs where the person wants a screw less box on viewable surfaces.

I don't have the clamps to just use glue.

Otherwise I typically use deck screws1 1/2" length with a 1/2-5/8" smooth shank so they can counter sink nicely.

This is the correct screw for 3/4 mdf

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084WTK2XR/?tag=caraudiocom-20

This one for parts that you are worried about over penetrative

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7838MYB/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Really with wood glue the screws aren't necessary for holding power. And I will grab my 15gauge pin nailer just as fast to slap a box together.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I also prefer to use clamps and have about 48 pipe clamps around to do just that. For my very large 12 cu ft box made of all 1.125" MDF, the pre-drilling with a KReg jig and using pocket screws really makes the clamping manageable.

If you don't have a brad gun or a lot of clamps, then they are a must. Countersinking them around an .25" makes for an easy $5 puddy job. and clean surface to pain or carpet. Countersinking is a necessary evil if you want a nice clean surface to cover or paint.

Building my grandsons speakers...

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I also prefer to use clamps and have about 48 pipe clamps around to do just that. For my very large 12 cu ft box made of all 1.125" MDF, the pre-drilling with a KReg jig and using pocket screws really makes the clamping manageable.

If you don't have a brad gun or a lot of clamps, then they are a must. Countersinking them around an .25" makes for an easy $5 puddy job. and clean surface to pain or carpet. Countersinking is a necessary evil if you want a nice clean surface to cover or paint.

Building my grandsons speakers...

View attachment 58048
View attachment 58049

Dammned that looks awesome. be a great picture in a workshop!! I have maybe 6 steel ratcheting type clamps, if that. much like the ones you have on the outsides. Great Clamps! Cool Pics!