What part of the sub smells if it is burning...

[Pistonsfan70 10+ year member]

If my sub is starting to burn up (which it shouldn't, 1st time it's seen power and my NINe.1 is only at 40%) what part of the sub would start to smell? The magnet smells a little bit on mine but everything else seems fine. I think the magnet only smells because the box itself smells pretty bad b/c the previous owner blew a sub in there. The smells gets stronger when the bass starts to hit hard though, but that could be something with the heat on the box making the stench stronger...

Does the magnet smell though if the sub is starting to go...

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[RandyJ 10+ year member]

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/speaker3.htm

Click on the green button to dissect the speaker. You will notice that in the middle of the wire, wrapped around the former is a coil. This coil is what receives the electrical current from your amplifier. Ever put two magnets together and they either pushed or pulled? Well when you charge a conductor it will create a magnetic field, and the magnetic field from the coil and from the magnet will work hand in hand to make the cone move. If you are smelling a stench it is most likely because the coil is getting too hot. On subwoofers there will usually be a hole in the magnet, called a pole vent, this is how the voice coil is cooled. Play the sub free-air, not too rough though, and stick you nose in that hole and smell. If it smells like something is burning, then you are probably doing something wrong. If you have a big sub though, you may just be smelling the magnet, my Ti's motor had a smell toit also.

 

[Pistonsfan70 10+ year member]

It's an IDMAX sub but I still think it is the box....it seems stronger in the box than anything

 

[RandyJ 10+ year member]

Heyyyy, lookie there, you have a 12" IDMAX V3, I am willing to bet I know exactly what the problem is. You bought the sub new probably right? Well, IDMAX's are notorious for a certain stench when they first see power, this is because of the type of adhesive they use with the former, coil and all other pieces of the motor. I can't remember his name but the owner of ID had a lot of explaining to do a while ago with a lot of members on SD. He explained that it's just the smell of the glue heating up for the first time.

One other thing, make sure you break this sub in the recommended way, for IDMAX's it's very important.

 

[RandyJ 10+ year member]

Well, it may very well be the box. With my Ti I could see the windings of the coil, can you do that with an IDMAX? If so, get a flash light and look around at the windings to see if there is any discoloration on the visible part.

 

[Pistonsfan70 10+ year member]

Heyyyy, lookie there, you have a 12" IDMAX V3, I am willing to bet I know exactly what the problem is. You bought the sub new probably right? Well, IDMAX's are notorious for a certain stench when they first see power, this is because of the type of adhesive they use with the former, coil and all other pieces of the motor. I can't remember his name but the owner of ID had a lot of explaining to do a while ago with a lot of members on SD. He explained that it's just the smell of the glue heating up for the first time.

One other thing, make sure you break this sub in the recommended way, for IDMAX's it's very important.

What is the recommended way??????

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

If my sub is starting to burn up (which it shouldn't, 1st time it's seen power and my NINe.1 is only at 40%)

You're Nine.1 isn't at 40% just because that's where the gain is set.

 

[RandyJ 10+ year member]

You're Nine.1 isn't at 40% just because that's where the gain is set.

Oh yea, I meant to point that out also.

The recommended way should be given by the manufacturer, if they didnt give you instruction, I would say low to moderate play for around 20Hrs.

 

[Pistonsfan70 10+ year member]

Well where would you set the gains at on the amp to break it in? Where would you set them after it's "broken in?"

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Well where would you set the gains at on the amp to break it in? Where would you set them after it's "broken in?"

You would set the gain to the same point either way. Break-in periods are over-rated. Just plug 'er in, play it at a low volume for a minute or two just to be sure nothing is rattling or rubbing, then play it like normal and it will "break in" on it's own with normal, regular use.

If you are a die-hard "I must break in my subs or they will implode and spontaneously combust!" type of guy, then you would vary their "break in" with the volume knob, not the gain knob. The gain is a set it and forget it kind of thing.....not something you should constantly be fvcking with.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Go read the gain setting tutorial if you are unclear on how to properly set your gain. Do it once, and never touch it again (unless you change your headunit or something).

 

[theCybe 5,000+ posts]

It's never the sub that stinks, it's the install //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[RandyJ 10+ year member]

You would set the gain to the same point either way. Break-in periods are over-rated. Just plug 'er in, play it at a low volume for a minute or two just to be sure nothing is rattling or rubbing, then play it like normal and it will "break in" on it's own with normal, regular use.
If you are a die-hard "I must break in my subs or they will implode and spontaneously combust!" type of guy, then you would vary their "break in" with the volume knob, not the gain knob. The gain is a set it and forget it kind of thing.....not something you should constantly be fvcking with.

Actually, ID recommends a specific break in on IDMAX's for a clear reason. The glue on the formers and coil, if heated too fast in the beginning will liquify again and run, this can cause the driver to be ruined due to the glue rubbing in the gap, which would lead to uneven alignment and all sorts of other problems. If the search function worked on SD you could search and see, multiple threads over there.

 

[Starky 10+ year member]

Oo yea...turn loudness off if its on...

Oh and, the Sub does push air from out of the box, im pretty sure...im pretty sure its probably the box, just be easy on it for a while

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Actually, ID recommends a specific break in on IDMAX's for a clear reason. The glue on the formers and coil, if heated too fast in the beginning will liquify again and run, this can cause the driver to be ruined due to the glue rubbing in the gap, which would lead to uneven alignment and all sorts of other problems. If the search function worked on SD you could search and see, multiple threads over there.

Yeah....and they also said using a Class D amp on the IDMax

would blow it........... (seriously)