What my weakest link in SQ?

[sjv13 10+ year member]

@mylows10; @av83;

Is it a big deal if I still have stock speaker wire in place from the speaker, through the door, through the door jamb boot to the inside? I still have it there because after taking a look and trying for 30 minutes or so, it seemed like it would be impossible to get my Kicker 16ga through there and to the speaker (1. It doesnt seem like there is room for anymore wires in the boot, 2. there are 2 90˚ turns in it).

 

[av83 10+ year member]

[quote name='sjv13']@mylows10; @av83;

Is it a big deal if I still have stock speaker wire in place from the speaker, through the door, through the door jamb boot to the inside? I still have it there because after taking a look and trying for 30 minutes or so, it seemed like it would be impossible to get my Kicker 16ga through there and to the speaker (1. It doesnt seem like there is room for anymore wires in the boot, 2. there are 2 90˚ turns in it).[/QUOTE]

I was able to disassemble the boot, and run two 16 ga wires through it, since I run active. There were plugs that unattached the wire harness from the body, and disconnected the boot from the door. I had to run wire from inside the door, to the boot opening i had disconnected(still had the wires in it, since the plug/wire harness was attached to the other end). Then i had to run the wires through the boot, past the wires(took some wiggling, lol) and to the disconnected plug. Then i had to route the wires through a little space in the plug, since i couldn't go around it, as the plug makes a water-proof seal with the body. Then I could pull the wires through into the body, and reassemble the boot and wire harness/plug.

This is for a mid 2000's GM, though... so IDK if it applies to you. But it should be possible if you spend dome time trying to figure it out. I've heard some have had luck with using a rod or coat hanger to guide the wire through the boot.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

I was able to disassemble the boot, and run two 16 ga wires through it, since I run active. There were plugs that unattached the wire harness from the body, and disconnected the boot from the door. I had to run wire from inside the door, to the boot opening i had disconnected(still had the wires in it, since the plug/wire harness was attached to the other end). Then i had to run the wires through the boot, past the wires(took some wiggling, lol) and to the disconnected plug. Then i had to route the wires through a little space in the plug, since i couldn't go around it, as the plug makes a water-proof seal with the body. Then I could pull the wires through into the body, and reassemble the boot and wire harness/plug.
This is for a mid 2000's GM, though... so IDK if it applies to you. But it should be possible if you spend dome time trying to figure it out. I've heard some have had luck with using a rod or coat hanger to guide the wire through the boot.

Yeah. If I spent more time and looked at it closer I bet I could eventually get it. The tweeter wires go into the dash and I dont know where the heck they are routed. I just took the factory harness from behind the dash, snipped off the connector, and all the wires were right there and easy to get to. Do you think the stock speaker wire is really holding me back from some SQ?

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Same here, but local hardware store. I just have a hard time believing that OPEN cell foam can make much of a good seal. You know?

Works just fine. Trust me. These seals..

make me this sound like this.



I used the rubber foam this time, but the more "foamy" foam worked for me in the past just fine.

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Yeah. If I spent more time and looked at it closer I bet I could eventually get it. The tweeter wires go into the dash and I dont know where the heck they are routed. I just took the factory harness from behind the dash, snipped off the connector, and all the wires were right there and easy to get to. Do you think the stock speaker wire is really holding me back from some SQ?

I did, but the wire in my car is soooo thin, lol. The 16 gauge i ran looks twice the size of my stock wire. If it's short, and the power is low, you're ok. But use this to find out if you're good. Wire Calculator

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

Works just fine. Trust me. These seals..

make me this sound like this.

I'd say the reason you can do that is because your comps are being fed monsterous power. 120rms if I recall correctly? 150 is what they can handle

 

[av83 10+ year member]

I'd say the reason you can do that is because your comps are being fed monsterous power. 120rms if I recall correctly? 150 is what they can handle

My comps are on a 120x4, with a channel dedicated to each mid and each tweeter...

But the midbass/bass would still be weak if I were allowing the rear firing sound waves to cancel out the front firing ones. They are opposite of each other, and if you allow them to mix, you can't hear the output. Wire two subs up, but with one out of phase(wired backwards), and you have the same effect. Cancellation. You can have great midbass with half the power.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

My comps are on a 120x4, with a channel dedicated to each mid and each tweeter...
But the midbass/bass would still be weak if I were allowing the rear firing sound waves to cancel out the front firing ones. They are opposite of each other, and if you allow them to mix, you can't hear the output. Wire two subs up, but with one out of phase(wired backwards), and you have the same effect. Cancellation. You can have great midbass with half the power.

If you notice the gap (where the woofer's magnet sets into the door), I plan to add some polyfill around back in there (if it doesnt interfere with the window) and then add a rubber strip to from a seal between the door and plastic speaker bracket. Will this help me out a lot?

View attachment 26539906

 

[av83 10+ year member]

If you notice the gap (where the woofer's magnet sets into the door), I plan to add some polyfill around back in there (if it doesnt interfere with the window) and then add a rubber strip to from a seal between the door and plastic speaker bracket. Will this help me out a lot?
View attachment 26539906

lol!! Fuck ya it'll help. Thats what i was asking you about in the email, about whether the bracket sat flush with the door or not. Fix those gaps, and get a solid tunnel leading into the door, and you'll be golden. That is, without a doubt, the source of your midbass problemo senor.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

lol!! Fuck ya it'll help. Thats what i was asking you about in the email, about whether the bracket sat flush with the door or not. Fix those gaps, and get a solid tunnel leading into the door, and you'll be golden. That is, without a doubt, the source of your midbass problemo senor.

Awesome! That's what I wanted to hear. haha. How much of a difference will the polyfill make? Because I'm not sure if I will be able to use it or not because of the window.

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Awesome! That's what I wanted to hear. haha. How much of a difference will the polyfill make? Because I'm not sure if I will be able to use it or not because of the window.

zip. Polyfil won't do a thing. Think of whats behind that speaker as an enclosure. You need something more solid to seal those gaps.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

zip. Polyfil won't do a thing. Think of whats behind that speaker as an enclosure. You need something more solid to seal those gaps.

Yeah, I'm going to use some type of rubber stripping to seal that part off. But what about behind there? Would the polyfill help?

 

[av83 10+ year member]

yeah, i'm going to use some type of rubber stripping to seal that part off. But what about behind there? Would the polyfill help?

Not really. Bagged fiberglass batt mat does.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

Not really. Bagged fiberglass batt mat does.

Home insulation?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

So if you had to rate all those in order of making the most improvement, how would it go?

Head unit with active crossover + time delay. 30 band EQ (probably separate), then care in component location and deadening/treatment of locations