What my weakest link in SQ?

[sjv13 10+ year member]

LMAO. Sarcasm bro.
[video=youtube;d8L9OvEBd-M]

Oh, I couldnt tell that was sarcasm .... well that's good to know what it shouldnt matter too much if I cant fit it in there. Each post needs a sarcasm-o-meter //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[itsblown 10+ year member]

would suggest against using fiber glass and then placing it in bags. i have personally done it and it is a complete pain in the ***. Its difficult to get all of the air out of the bags and they get caught on the window as it travels down and if water gets in you will have mold growing. I personally haven't used this product but it has the same exact acoustical properties as fiberglass, you just dont have to put it in a bag, it comes with an adhesive backing and its not flammable.

Check it out here

Create a Quiet Home with Safe

Like was previously stated though, before you start worrying about absorbing the back wave of the speaker, make sure the door is properly sealed and deadened first, because that will net you the bigest results.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

would suggest against using fiber glass and then placing it in bags. i have personally done it and it is a complete pain in the ***. Its difficult to get all of the air out of the bags and they get caught on the window as it travels down and if water gets in you will have mold growing. I personally haven't used this product but it has the same exact acoustical properties as fiberglass, you just dont have to put it in a bag, it comes with an adhesive backing and its not flammable.Check it out here

Create a Quiet Home with Safe

Like was previously stated though, before you start worrying about absorbing the back wave of the speaker, make sure the door is properly sealed and deadened first, because that will net you the bigest results.

which part of the door is the most important to put deadener on? the only part i can deaden is the part immediately behind the door panel.

View attachment 26539907

 

[av83 10+ year member]

which part of the door is the most important to put deadener on? the only part i can deaden is the part immediately behind the door panel.
View attachment 26539907

any flat, metal surfaces. And i used mine to seal up holes, as well.

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

which part of the door is the most important to put deadener on? the only part i can deaden is the part immediately behind the door panel.
View attachment 26539907

Wish my speakers say that high.them being at my ankles is seriously causing me problems.

 

[itsblown 10+ year member]

hmmm, judging from that picture, and again this is just judging from a picture. It looks like you

should be able to remove the shinny steel looking metal rectangles. I would try and remove them

so you can gain access to the outer layer of the door. If you can gain access to the outer layer

the first thing I would do is apply a layer of CLD tile type sound deadener. Here is an example of

what im talking about

From there you have to decide if you want to use a sound deadener to absorb the backwave of

the speaker. Absorbing the back wave of the speaker stops it from building up inside the door

panel, creating standing waves and pushing back on the speaker cone resulting in distortion and a

loss of mid bass performance. If you choose to do this I would not use pollyfill. If you use pollyfill

you will have to encase it in some type of a bag so it doesn't hold water inside of your doors and

grow mold and quickly rust your door pannels. Fiberglass also holds water and does the same thing

enless you place it in some type of a bag, but Fiberglass is much better at absorbing the sound

waves. The product I recomended for this is Roxul's safe N sound. It has the same properties as

fiberglass and will absorb the backwave just as well, like I previously said though there is no need

to place it in bags because it will not grow mold or hold water, it also comes stuck to an adhesive

tape which makes it easy to apply. If you choose to do this step do it after placing down a layer of

CLD tile.

If you choose not to do the backwave absorbent deadener such as fiberglass or roxul safe N sound

Go ahead and apply a layer of CLD tiles to the inner door pannel (the part of the door you can see

in your picture) If you choose to apply the fiberglass or foxul safe N sound you must do that first

before applying the CLD tiles to the inner door pannel.

 

[zako 10+ year member]

Just wondering what I should change in the process of getting an SQ oriented front stage... here is what I have:
Head unit: Pioneer MVH-p8200bt

Speakers: Focal IS 165 ($200)

4 channel: Polk PA660

In my opinion the weakest link in a car audio system is always tuning. Again and again I see people starting a stock sound system upgrade from installing amplifiers, speakers, etc. But the truth is that no matter how much equipment you throw at this, you won't get flat frequency response or imaging in a typical car environment. Solution? Start with a good DSP that can correct frequency response, time alignment and other issues. Recently, Pioneer DEH-80PRS has been popular for simple 2.1 installs. For a more complicated setup with non-replaceable head unit and many speakers, a more advanced processor may be better, such as Alpine H800, JBL MS-8, BitOne, etc

Since you're buying a head unit, then I would say right away that Pioneer DEH-80PRS is better. As for speakers. I heard that cheaper Focals do not always sound good, specially the tweeters may require some additional taming (and this is what you need good DSP for). Have you heard about JBLs MS-62C speakers? They have been getting very good reviews recently.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

@av83; @itsblown; @zako;

Thanks for all the help guys. Last night I went to Home Depot and bought so rubber/foam weather stripping, and just went around and around the metal door until it was built up enough to form a seal between the door and plastic bracket. I would say it's 97.7342856% air tight. Also, when I took off the woofer, I was surprised at what I found (I had put them on a year ago and never paid attention to what was behind it). Here is a picture that will do most of the explaining. I just used a little bit of polyfill and stuffed it around the cracks to the left and right of the circle, and spray glued a thin circle piece in the center. I only got one door done last night, and it was a pretty hack/unpretty job, but hey, it's sealed... sorta. I'll take pics and put them up today.

EDIT: Added picture

 

[itsblown 10+ year member]

polly fill is going to hold water grow mold and quickly rust your door pannel, like I previously said. I really dont suggest you put it in the door pannel

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

would suggest against using fiber glass and then placing it in bags. i have personally done it and it is a complete pain in the ***. Its difficult to get all of the air out of the bags and they get caught on the window as it travels down and if water gets in you will have mold growing. I personally haven't used this product but it has the same exact acoustical properties as fiberglass, you just dont have to put it in a bag, it comes with an adhesive backing and its not flammable.Check it out here

Create a Quiet Home with Safe

Like was previously stated though, before you start worrying about absorbing the back wave of the speaker, make sure the door is properly sealed and deadened first, because that will net you the bigest results.

the process was easy for me, no more than 30 minutes per door. air in the bag is inevitable, just use aluminum foil tape to hold it in place and use it to protect against snags at key window track locations. certainly, execution is key. and doing this BEFORE you seal the doors is 10x easier.

being concerned with the rear wave is why we seal doors, putting absorption in there is the next logical step.

just think about home audio tower speaker enclosures - how many are made of sheet metal and are hollow? none.

good speaker enclosures try to be as dense as possible and use absorption inside the enclosure to prevent the rear wave from coming back out the through the cone. it's not a new idea to audio, just difficult to execute in a car.

we use Basalt Rock insulation in generator exhaust systems due to the high thermal capability of the material. it's better than nothing, but not even close to fiberglass batt. plus, while it is not an organic material (neither is fiberglass) it can still trap water which when combined with dirt creates a place for mold. you want to avoid anything fibrous in nature in a door. that is why you need to protect it with plastic. when installed on the outer door skin, and enclosed in a plastic bag - there are no worries with water or mold.

if you're serious about making a car door sound good, you need to be serious about putting absorption in there - and something that actually absorbs lower midrange frequencies requires a lot of surface area and good absorption coefficients.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

@av83; @itsblown;

Just an update. After doing the work I feel like snare drum hits and things around that frequency are MUCH better, as in clearer and more powerful. Although this is awesome and improves my listening experience, I was hoping it would improve things that were lower frequencies than that. Maybe it has to do with how little airspace there is behind the woofers. Or I feel like it may have more to do with my substage though. Without adding 8" (or maybe 6.5") midbass or subs to the doors I dont think I'll get what I'm looking for. There is a nice place I could add some into the door down by my feet, but it would require cutting out a circle in the door panel and doing quite a bit of custom work. Not to mention I dont have the money to do anything like that (but I do have the time... being a senior in high school is the easiest thing in the world). Perhaps I could also get what I'm looking for by getting a custom box that is tuned differently and more suited towards SQ rather than SPL... but I dont really have an SQ oriented sub in the first place. What my dream is, is to get that "2x4 to the chest" type of kick out of kick drums, etc. But I also want to be able to blast the rap and shake the shit out of my passengers. Not exactly sure how to go about doing that, or if what I want to do is possible. I guess what I'm looking for is SQL. Which is expensive and hard to do right. What do guys think? Is a custom box (and maybe new sub) the way to go? Or would it be better to put in some more speakers or subs in the doors? I dont plan to do either anytime soon.

 

[itsblown 10+ year member]

[quote name='sjv13']@av83; @itsblown;

Just an update. After doing the work I feel like snare drum hits and things around that frequency are MUCH better, as in clearer and more powerful. Although this is awesome and improves my listening experience, I was hoping it would improve things that were lower frequencies than that. Maybe it has to do with how little airspace there is behind the woofers. Or I feel like it may have more to do with my substage though. Without adding 8" (or maybe 6.5") midbass or subs to the doors I dont think I'll get what I'm looking for. There is a nice place I could add some into the door down by my feet, but it would require cutting out a circle in the door panel and doing quite a bit of custom work. Not to mention I dont have the money to do anything like that (but I do have the time... being a senior in high school is the easiest thing in the world). Perhaps I could also get what I'm looking for by getting a custom box that is tuned differently and more suited towards SQ rather than SPL... but I dont really have an SQ oriented sub in the first place. What my dream is, is to get that "2x4 to the chest" type of kick out of kick drums, etc. But I also want to be able to blast the rap and shake the shit out of my passengers. Not exactly sure how to go about doing that, or if what I want to do is possible. I guess what I'm looking for is SQL. Which is expensive and hard to do right. What do guys think? Is a custom box (and maybe new sub) the way to go? Or would it be better to put in some more speakers or subs in the doors? I dont plan to do either anytime soon.[/QUOTE]
ed
Glad to hear youre improvement helped. if you add the CLD tile deadener and Fiberglass bags or roxul safe n sound to your doors it will increase mid bass performance out of your door speakers. Honestly I hate to say it but on the sub stage you may be better off starting over. I would try and sell your stuff on craislist and look into a better amp and sub and a custom box. Most important thing is box but I think even by building a custom box for your sub 500 watts isnt really going to help you out.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

ed Glad to hear youre improvement helped. if you add the CLD tile deadener and Fiberglass bags or roxul safe n sound to your doors it will increase mid bass performance out of your door speakers. Honestly I hate to say it but on the sub stage you may be better off starting over. I would try and sell your stuff on craislist and look into a better amp and sub and a custom box. Most important thing is box but I think even by building a custom box for your sub 500 watts isnt really going to help you out.

1 12" HDC 3.0 on aq2200? That leaves room to add another HDC 3 later if I want more SPL. Or should I just go with a q-1200 and spend the extra on the sickest box ever?

 

[itsblown 10+ year member]

1 12" HDC 3.0 on aq2200? That leaves room to add another HDC 3 later if I want more SPL. Or should I just go with a q-1200 and spend the extra on the sickest box ever?

The box is the most important thing, no matter what you choose having a custom box should be priority one. Do you have 0 gauge power wire ran to the back to power the amplifiers? youre going to need that with running amps that big and also to do the big 3 upgrade. I would suggest to go with the aq2200 obviously because its more power but than youre on the edge of needing a battery or an alternator depending on the size of your stock one.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

The box is the most important thing, no matter what you choose having a custom box should be priority one. Do you have 0 gauge power wire ran to the back to power the amplifiers? youre going to need that with running amps that big and also to do the big 3 upgrade. I would suggest to go with the aq2200 obviously because its more power but than youre on the edge of needing a battery or an alternator depending on the size of your stock one.

I know if I add any more power I'll need a 0ga run from the batt to the distro block. Right now it's just 4ga. I'll also need to do the big 3. I looked under my hood and I have no clue where the right wires are and how they get to where they are going. Huge mess to me. Might have to pay someone who knows how to do it. How much would you say I should set aside for a custom box? Is the 2200 better quality than the 1200 or just more power? For just one HDC 12" I think the 1200 would be fine.