What my weakest link in SQ?

everything but the deck ,it will be fine if you get a good processor ,if you dont want the processor then get a 3 way active deck to.better components and amp .deaden the doors ,nice rca's as well .

 
everything but the deck ,it will be fine if you get a good processor ,if you dont want the processor then get a 3 way active deck to.better components and amp .deaden the doors ,nice rca's as well .
So if you had to rate all those in order of making the most improvement, how would it go?

 
amp first ,then better components ,the low end focals ,tend to be a bit harsh for most people,then like i said if you dont wanna run a good processor then the deck to a nice 3 way active deck like the 80prs or alpine 9887 or cda 117.you need time alignment and settings for all the speakers and tweets .

 
New deck, he made it pretty clear. Or a processor. Also speaker placement and install will probably make the biggest treatment. As well as properly deadening and sealing of your doors.
Actually, I was kind of confused because he said "everything BUT the deck" and I was wondering what my weakest link was. My tweeters bounce of my windshield glass at pretty close to ear level right now. And I will be doing door treatment in a week or so. So should I go for an 80prs?

 
amp first ,then better components ,the low end focals ,tend to be a bit harsh for most people,then like i said if you dont wanna run a good processor then the deck to a nice 3 way active deck like the 80prs or alpine 9887 or cda 117.you need time alignment and settings for all the speakers and tweets .
Ok. Thank you! The Polk amp was free and I was using an Alpine 45x4 power pack before, so I took the Polk.

 
Actually, I was kind of confused because he said "everything BUT the deck" and I was wondering what my weakest link was. My tweeters bounce of my windshield glass at pretty close to ear level right now. And I will be doing door treatment in a week or so. So should I go for an 80prs?
the 80 prs is a good start .it has time alignment and 3 way active settings .hey free is a great price ,but the amp may not have the settings on the xovers that you'll need to run active .

 
Actually, I was kind of confused because he said "everything BUT the deck" and I was wondering what my weakest link was. My tweeters bounce of my windshield glass at pretty close to ear level right now. And I will be doing door treatment in a week or so. So should I go for an 80prs?
ooooh, sorry, I misread that. My bad. Deflecting off the windshield may not be the best position for them, but it may work in your car. I'd play around with difference placement though. Treating the doors would be my first step, it's the cheapest, and will definitely improve overall sound. I'd suggest an 80prs or 9887 or 9855 for a good, more modern deck. If you don't mind an older deck, Alpine's 7998 or 9813 are great. Also, can't forget Eclipse cd5030, cd7100, or 7200mKii.

 
the 80 prs is a good start .it has time alignment and 3 way active settings .hey free is a great price ,but the amp may not have the settings on the xovers that you'll need to run active .
Yeah, I know it doesnt have the settings to be able to run active. So, on a purely SQ basis (not features basis) you would recommend a new 4 channel? I plan to do doors and one other thing. But I can only afford to do one other thing at this point.

 
The best possible installation of your mids and tweeters should be your #1 priority, seeing as your equipment isn't terrible. Placement of tweeters, deadened doors, foam seals, proper gains on highs amp, correct xovers, etc.

 
The best possible installation of your mids and tweeters should be your #1 priority, seeing as your equipment isn't terrible. Placement of tweeters, deadened doors, foam seals, proper gains on highs amp, correct xovers, etc.
Looks like the thing I need to buy the most is a working DMM. I have open cell foam sealing between the speaker and door panel. Should I be using something more dense?

 
Looks like the thing I need to buy the most is a working DMM. I have open cell foam sealing between the speaker and door panel. Should I be using something more dense?
Yes, working DMM's are preferred, lol. About the foam, that's fine. Just make sure there is enough there to bridge the gap all the way around. I actually put my door panel on, then took it back off, to see if I had compressed the foam all the way around. I hadn't with one layer, and needed to add another. So my foam is two layers thick, of the thickest they had at Lowes, lol.

 
Yes, working DMM's are preferred, lol. About the foam, that's fine. Just make sure there is enough there to bridge the gap all the way around. I actually put my door panel on, then took it back off, to see if I had compressed the foam all the way around. I hadn't with one layer, and needed to add another. So my foam is two layers thick, of the thickest they had at Lowes, lol.
Same here, but local hardware store. I just have a hard time believing that OPEN cell foam can make much of a good seal. You know?

 
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