What does a capacitor do?

[Puppet Master 10+ year member]

I want to know. Does it just keep your lights from dimming, or does it help conserve your alternator?

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[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

A cap is a power storage device plain and simple. You put power into it and it discharges when the power is needed.

If your alt isn't up to the task of providing the current to your system, a cap won't do anything. If your alt is more than capable of providing the normally required current, a cap will usually help keep the lights from dimming during the time it takes for your alt to up its output to meet transient demands.

If you try searching, I myself have answered this exact question 3 times in the last 3-4 days.

 

[SAG3 5,000+ posts]

does plenty if used in appropriate situations

lawls

 

[ntense702 10+ year member]

It does plenty if used in appropriate situations ...

if used appropriately, what does it do?

 

[Leeiswho2b 10+ year member]

Caps are there for instantaneous power when u need help on those low ghetto notes.....if you are having probs with electrical system (ie. lights dimming, voltage dropping too low), I would first start out w/ a dual battery setup. 1 for the reg car accessories, starting, driving, etc. , and one for the system. It will put less stress on your alternator, and better than going to a higher amp alt. If you decide to go this route, most prefer gel cell deep cycle batteries (Optima Yellow or Blue Top.....important - no Red Tops.) You can mount these in the trunk w/o having to worry bout leakage or fumes. Easy to set up.....less than a hours worth of work.

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

Caps are there for instantaneous power when u need help on those low ghetto notes.....if you are having probs with electrical system (ie. lights dimming, voltage dropping too low), I would first start out w/ a dual battery setup. 1 for the reg car accessories, starting, driving, etc. , and one for the system. It will put less stress on your alternator, and better than going to a higher amp alt. If you decide to go this route, most prefer gel cell deep cycle batteries (Optima Yellow or Blue Top.....important - no Red Tops.) You can mount these in the trunk w/o having to worry bout leakage or fumes. Easy to set up.....less than a hours worth of work.

Welcome to the forum my brother. But let me ask a question. How is adding a second battery to a weak electrical system going to help anything ? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

To flesh out what ramos alluded to, how is adding a 12V current supply to a 14V system going to help with voltage drops and the associated dimming lights?

 

[PepsiFiend69 10+ year member]

LyKe OmGeEzErzZ It MaKeZ uR sWeEt AuDiOBaHn'Z HiT LykE 4 MiLlIoN DeEbEeZe DoOd!!!

 

[Leeiswho2b 10+ year member]

You have your "cranking battery" and the accessories' battery. You draw your car power off of the original (or stock) and you audio needs from the deep cycle. It helps your alternator by not drawing as much amperage at once so the stock battery doesn't get drained as quickly so the alt is not trying to play catch up as much, thus extending the alternator's life. The deep cycle has more reserve power so doesn't discharge as quickly. As long as you don't bump every single mile you drive it, the deep cycle will recharge in a relative easy manner. I have been wrong many times before though!!!!!!!! But, hey I'm from WV....it's all relative here!!!!! Actually, I have an AS in Electronic Engineering and am a journeyman electrician, but just getting back in the audio scene.

 

[9Nails 10+ year member]

I'd install the big 3 first. Cheaper and smaller than a battery, and sometime it's all you need. If things are still blinkin' after that I'd try a cap. And if it's really hittin' the fan, then follow the path to a 2nd battery or an alternator upgrade. It all kind of depends on how much pain your system brings to the electrical IMHO.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

You have your "cranking battery" and the accessories' battery. You draw your car power off of the original (or stock) and you audio needs from the deep cycle. It helps your alternator by not drawing as much amperage at once so the stock battery doesn't get drained as quickly so the alt is not trying to play catch up as much, thus extending the alternator's life. The deep cycle has more reserve power so doesn't discharge as quickly. As long as you don't bump every single mile you drive it, the deep cycle will recharge in a relative easy manner. I have been wrong many times before though!!!!!!!! But, hey I'm from WV....it's all relative here!!!!! Actually, I have an AS in Electronic Engineering and am a journeyman electrician, but just getting back in the audio scene.

If the battery is anything other than fully charged, it is a load on the alternator. Period. A deep cycle battery is actually not as good as a starting battery for instantaneous current. It is slower to respond to current demands because of relatively higher ESR. The deep cycle can be discharged further than the cranking battery without damaging the battery, but with the car running this is irrelevant. After each bit of power is drawn from the battery, the alt begins to put that power back as soon as it can. The further discharged the battery is the more current it is going to attempt to draw from the alt and the farther in hole you are going to be.

For the last time, if your alt is not capable of supplying the current demanded by the system, the only thing that you can add to fix the problem is a bigger or second alt. Adding batteries and/or caps to a struggling electrical system is only going to make it worse.