What do I need power wise?

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

Equipment-

H/U-Pioneer AVH1400 DVD Player

Speakers- Pioneer TS-D1720C (2 sets)

Speaker Amp- Kicker ZX350.4 (will be wired at 4 ohms so 60x4 RMS. May upgrade to MB Quart FX4.100 later, depending on how the ZX performs with these speakers)

Subs-TBD (Thinking either 2 SA8 V.2's, 2 Cadence S2W8s, Possibly a single beefy 12" or 15". Final load will be 2 ohms and I have to maintain trunk space in an 09 Camry SE for kids strollers, groceries, army gear, etc. so I am limited on power and box size)

Sub Amp-Looking at the Audiopipe APSM1500 wired at 2 ohms so 1,000 RMS. Unless I get some suggestions on an amp with the same output, close price range, and not complete garbage. The reviews I have read seem to be good for the price

Wires- Plan on running a single power cable about 20-25 feet of KnuConceptz 0 gauge to a distribution fuse block in the trunk and running a 0 gauge to the APSM and 4 gauge to the Kicker. Will be doing the big 3 upgrade and 0 gauge ground in the back.

I will have about a 30-45 minute drive to work each way everyday and typically I listen to my music almost full blast the whole time. Music is 90% metal, the rest country and rap/hip hop, so typically not too bass heavy.

My question is this-

1.Would I be fine with this setup just doing the big 3 and running a Yellow Top under the hood on stock alt(From what I have seen I believe on the I4 09 Camry its about 80-100 Amps).

2. Should I run a second battery in the trunk on the stock alt along with the Yellow Top?

3. Should I upgrade to a higher output alt and just stick with the yellow top under the hood?

With the power I will be running I am looking at around 115-125 amps if going full tilt. My goal is to not drop below 13 volts while driving(not too concerned with idle as I typically don't "show off" while parked or anything and turn it down while at stop lights and around other people, I don't like being that guy) I am trying to keep everything as cheap as possible as this is a budget build(the wifey doesn't share my enthusiasm for car audio) so I would like to keep it as stock as possible so reduce costs.

What are your recommendations?

Click to read more...

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

And I am kind of stuck on the Yellow Top under the hood cause the location for the battery is very small so I am extremely limited on what I can use under there and the Yellow Top seems to have the best specs for the price and size. Unless anyone has any better suggestions

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

You wont need a new alt but a second batt would help

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

You wont need a new alt but a second batt would help

So the yellow top probably won't be sufficient? Is there any other batts that you know of that are as small as what I need but still good output. I really don't want to get a yellow top because of not being able to jump them without blowing them up. I don't want to get stuck somewhere needing a trickle charge. I always see you posting about batts and electrical and seem to know what you are talking about. The electrical side of audio is where I'm def not as knowledgable as I should be

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

A smaller XS should be fine... I think Audio savings was having a sale on them right now also Kevin with Skar audio posted some brand new Shuriken batts up yesterday...

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

Amazon.com: Optima Batteries 8040-218 D35 YellowTop Dual Purpose Battery: Automotive

Here is the yellow top that fits for my vehicle. What size would I need if I got the XS? I'm not at all sure of how to do the sizing for the batts. What is a good site for cheap batts?

And I just want to verify this, so if I run an XS under the hood I can just run my power cable straight to the + on the larger batt in the rear and just run the - on the rear batt to the ground distribution block I will install in the rear? And then I can just connect my amps to the battery in the rear? Thanks for the help man

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

A smaller XS should be fine... I think Audio savings was having a sale on them right now also Kevin with Skar audio posted some brand new Shuriken batts up yesterday...

I second this go talk with Kevin. Much better batt for the $$

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

Thanks for the advice. Hopefully he has a sell sometime later. I don't get back from my deployment for another 7 months so I'm sure something will pop up around the time I get back.

Was I correct in how I would wire the second bat and my amps to that bat?

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

Run your 1/0 to the rear batt and the amp power wires off that... You are going to fuse right after the front batt as usual and right before the rear batt and obviously to your amps...