What capacitor do I need?

No problem. It just didn't all make sense is all. You can't trust everything that you read on the interwebz. Some things need questioning if they don't make sense. I was not trying to call you out, but more question the source. Hope you didn't take great offense. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
I am not offended at all. In fact, I learned something new today because you caused me to dig some more:D

Of course, I still don't know why the ELD is only used in the USA by Honda. Is it a "feature" here because of tree hugging eco-weenies:confused:

 
I am not offended at all. In fact, I learned something new today because you caused me to dig some more:D
Of course, I still don't know why the ELD is only used in the USA by Honda. Is it a "feature" here because of tree hugging eco-weenies:confused:
Hey if it in fact saved me a few MPG with stock electrical, I am all for it. Not to mention the added HP. I need every pony I can get from the hamster wheel of an engine. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
that amp should still not go into protect at even 11 volts, so there is something still amiss here go to an auto parts store and have them test the alternator and battery then we can go from there. im willing to bet the rectifier or diode pattern on the alternator is toasted and sending incorrect ac and/or dc voltages. its a very common problem on jap cars.

 
When my ELD would kick in, I managed to measure voltage as low as 11.8. It would usually drop to 12.3 except on long trips. I don't have that problem any more;) and I will be installing my 170 amp alternator as soon as my GD circuit breaker arrives:verymad:
ETA: Most JAP cars sense voltage load through the stock fuse box. In other words, you can **** that battery dry and the ELD circuit would never know that there was an excessive load nor would it ramp the alternator back up because it only detects draw through the under hood fusebox.

did you manage a way to fix the ELD issue with your civic to up the voltage? if so how?

if you didn't then that 170amp alty is still going to do the same as your stock.

i have a 180amp alty and my voltage stays around 12v unless a load is run.

 
I just came back from the shop I got my setup installed and they said I need a bigger better battery. He also said I might need a capacitor but the battery should be the first upgrade. Should I replace my battery or add an extra battery?
Get the battery replaced with as big of a battery as you can fit under the hood ideally - love how this thread got jacked and ninnies are arguing over semantics when you asked another question and are the OP!

 
A cap will fix your dimming problems. You dont need to get a new alt and all that bull. A 2 fard would go well.
STFU you have no idea what you are talking about

OP- i run a duralast gold top and a 130 amp alt in my truck...i had 1200 watts rms with no issues

 
I ran 1500W just fine with 105A stock alt and front batt, but had a 1000CCA car battery (vented in what I can the orange box, 5/8" round copper terminals) in the back. Lowest V I got was 13.2V after running the car for a minute or two, the batteries sat at about 12.8-12.9 so yeah.

 
did you manage a way to fix the ELD issue with your civic to up the voltage? if so how?if you didn't then that 170amp alty is still going to do the same as your stock.

i have a 180amp alty and my voltage stays around 12v unless a load is run.
Of course I found a way around it, but if your local County tests for emissions, you are screwed. I went from an ODB2a to ODB1 ECU and had the ELD circuit programmed out of the EEPROM as well as a premium fuel base fuel map installed. I still have yet to perform any highway traveling to see if I gained any fuel economy but the ELD no longer interferes with my alternator.

I guess if my Parish (County to the rest of you) ever starts testing for emissions, I will just stick the P2P ECU back in there for that day:laugh: It only takes 10 minutes from start to finish to swap out the ECU.

 
My alternator seems to be fine. I had the battery checked with a machine and it said the battery is bad. So I'm coming to a conclusion that its a bad battery and I need to get a new one.

 
Of course I found a way around it, but if your local County tests for emissions, you are screwed. I went from an ODB2a to ODB1 ECU and had the ELD circuit programmed out of the EEPROM as well as a premium fuel base fuel map installed. I still have yet to perform any highway traveling to see if I gained any fuel economy but the ELD no longer interferes with my alternator.
I guess if my Parish (County to the rest of you) ever starts testing for emissions, I will just stick the P2P ECU back in there for that day:laugh: It only takes 10 minutes from start to finish to swap out the ECU.
got any links or how to's or such?

florida doesn't do emissions test(i haven't had any so far).

if you can show me the path so i can have this done it will be very helpful, i hate having an HO alty for no god **** reason. does it cost much and can i myself do this swap or does it need to go to a shop?

any info will be greatly appreciated.

also, when you get your alt can you post results of how it performs? not just idle or output but how the voltage rest while driving or when running components in the car.

 
yea it couldnt hurt,mine was 700 and something from factory,now its 935-950 cca,with a 130 amp reserve
Can I buy any Optima Yellow Top as long as it fits in my hood? Cause online, the site is suggesting the D35 with 810 crank amps for my Camry and I want to get a Yellow Top with more crank amps..

 
Can I buy any Optima Yellow Top as long as it fits in my hood? Cause online, the site is suggesting the D35 with 810 crank amps for my Camry and I want to get a Yellow Top with more crank amps..
i dont see why not,my car came with a big battery tray but a puny battery,the batt i put in there fills the tray completely up
 
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