What capacitor do I need?

[Plutoman 10+ year member]

Just go to a shop and get a new decent battery, an optima or duralast battery.

Search the forum for the big 3 upgrade, and do that. If you still have problems, you'll need to replace the alt, as it is certainly going bad.

The gain issues I can understand with a stock system. However, turn the bass boost off, and loudness off. Turn the stock system to the max possible, like it was said, and turn up the gain until the subs seem to be getting a bit of a distorted sound, and then turn it back a bit from that. Keep the bass boost and loudness off.

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

How many cranking and cold cranking amps does my battery need to supply enough power to my car and my amp. My amp is 750 rms watts but it's underrated.

CA and CCA are only used to know if a battery will start your car in cold weather. They have NOTHING to do with music. Both of those are measurements at 7.2V, which is well below what any amp will play at.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

i got 12.2 vdc with everything on except the music. i know that when I turn the music on, the voltage is going to drop. I get 14.5 when my engine is running with all the accessories such as high beams, heater, etc. off.

Sounds like your alt is fried. There is no way the voltage should drop from 14.5 to 12.2 just from running normal car accessories.

It could also be excessive corrosion causing resistance at the battery terminals, but its most likely a faulty alternator. Taker the alt off and run it down to your local auto parts store. Many have a machine and will bench test an alt for free.

 

[fbi90909 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like your alt is fried. There is no way the voltage should drop from 14.5 to 12.2 just from running normal car accessories.
It could also be excessive corrosion causing resistance at the battery terminals, but its most likely a faulty alternator. Taker the alt off and run it down to your local auto parts store. Many have a machine and will bench test an alt for free.

actually depending on what car his voltage seems quite normal.

my voltage on my car usually sits around 12.0 to 12.4v.. it will drop down to 11.9 just for sitting at a red light. my voltage has always been like this even when i had my stock alt. even with my HO alt it does the same. i'd have to run an accessory like my A/C in order to get a voltage charge of 13.9+

his voltage drop from 14.5 to 12.2v doesn't sound like the alt is bad. hell, i could run my a/c and get my 13.9+ and as soon as i turn on my head lights my voltage will hover around 12.0v

jap cars are the devil...

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

+1
a cap would "bandaid" the problem like someone posted earlier....it wouldnt fix anything really.

Sure the cap will help.... After the cap causes the OP's alternator to go tits up, he can replace his alternator with a high output unit:laugh:

ETA: Since the OP has a 1996 Camry, do they have a built in Electrical Load Detector like the Honda vehicles do? If so, that could potentially explain the OP's voltage drop since the ELD circuit throttles back charging voltage to be more economical. At least I was able to get around it with my Civic by running a bootleg ECU.

 

[Jer510 10+ year member]

The amp protection light flashes when the bass cuts out. And I got some specs if this helps:

Car on music on: 13.6-13.7 vdc

Car on music off: 13.8 vdc

Car on, headlights on, wipers on, defrost on: 11.9-12.1 vdc

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

actually depending on what car his voltage seems quite normal.my voltage on my car usually sits around 12.0 to 12.4v.. it will drop down to 11.9 just for sitting at a red light. my voltage has always been like this even when i had my stock alt. even with my HO alt it does the same. i'd have to run an accessory like my A/C in order to get a voltage charge of 13.9+

his voltage drop from 14.5 to 12.2v doesn't sound like the alt is bad. hell, i could run my a/c and get my 13.9+ and as soon as i turn on my head lights my voltage will hover around 12.0v

jap cars are the devil...

You are saying your voltage increases as you add a load to it? Even if that were true, that's the opposite of what the OP said his system does. And yes, dropping even below the batt's nominal charge level of 12.8 (or so) while the alt is running shows signs of a problem.
And if this were normal, Id expect alot more amps to be dipping into protect mode due to low voltage situations on a regular basis.

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

You are saying your voltage increases as you add a load to it? Even if that were true, that's the opposite of what the OP said his system does. And yes, dropping even below the batt's nominal charge level of 12.8 (or so) while the alt is running shows signs of a problem.
And if this were normal, Id expect alot more amps to be dipping into protect mode due to low voltage situations on a regular basis.

When my ELD would kick in, I managed to measure voltage as low as 11.8. It would usually drop to 12.3 except on long trips. I don't have that problem any more and I will be installing my 170 amp alternator as soon as my GD circuit breaker arrives:verymad:

ETA: Most JAP cars sense voltage load through the stock fuse box. In other words, you can **** that battery dry and the ELD circuit would never know that there was an excessive load nor would it ramp the alternator back up because it only detects draw through the under hood fusebox.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

ETA: Most JAP cars sense voltage load through the stock fuse box. In other words, you can **** that battery dry and the ELD circuit would never know that there was an excessive load nor would it ramp the alternator back up because it only detects draw through the under hood fusebox.

I did not know this. Why in the world would they sense load through the fuse box? lol

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

Sure the cap will help.... After the cap causes the OP's alternator to go tits up, he can replace his alternator with a high output unit:laugh:
ETA: Since the OP has a 1996 Camry, do they have a built in Electrical Load Detector like the Honda vehicles do? If so, that could potentially explain the OP's voltage drop since the ELD circuit throttles back charging voltage to be more economical. At least I was able to get around it with my Civic by running a bootleg ECU.

I have a 97 Civic and I have never had this issue. My alt charge voltage is never less than 13.6V without a load.

You are saying your voltage increases as you add a load to it? Even if that were true, that's the opposite of what the OP said his system does. And yes, dropping even below the batt's nominal charge level of 12.8 (or so) while the alt is running shows signs of a problem.
And if this were normal, Id expect alot more amps to be dipping into protect mode due to low voltage situations on a regular basis.

What he is saying is that he thinks the alt would not engage because it would see no load, but the fact is, a discharged battery would be a load.

When my ELD would kick in, I managed to measure voltage as low as 11.8. It would usually drop to 12.3 except on long trips. I don't have that problem any more and I will be installing my 170 amp alternator as soon as my GD circuit breaker arrives:verymad:
ETA: Most JAP cars sense voltage load through the stock fuse box. In other words, you can **** that battery dry and the ELD circuit would never know that there was an excessive load nor would it ramp the alternator back up because it only detects draw through the under hood fusebox.

OK, the OP is seeing drops in voltage when he introduces a load, not when one is not present. Therefore, your explanation does not apply.

I did not know this. Why in the world would they sense load through the fuse box? lol

Any load will be sensed throughout the vehicle, unless there was an isolated circuit.

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

I have a 97 Civic and I have never had this issue. My alt charge voltage is never less than 13.6V without a load.

The Electrical Load Detector in Honda vehicles is an isolated circuit in the under hood fuse box that goes straight to the ECU for reporting. Ever notice how the alternator goes to the fuse box instead of the battery?

Is your 1997 Civic Stock with a P2P or other ODB2a ECU? If you are running a stock setup, I find it odd that your voltage never dropped below 13.6 unless your battery holds it higher. Granted, I have seen other Civics hold higher voltages with extra batteries and even capacitors. In other words, I am not calling you out or anything, just trying to see what made your situation different from mine.

I will say this though... The ELD is even worse on the EP hatch in that it will let you **** the battery dry because it doesn't sense the load off the battery

For more reading on a Civic's ELD, click **HERE**

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

The Electrical Load Detector in Honda vehicles is an isolated circuit in the under hood fuse box that goes straight to the ECU for reporting. Ever notice how the alternator goes to the fuse box instead of the battery?
Is your 1997 Civic Stock with a P2P or other ODB2a ECU? If you are running a stock setup, I find it odd that your voltage never dropped below 13.6 unless your battery holds it higher. Granted, I have seen other Civics hold higher voltages with extra batteries and even capacitors. In other words, I am not calling you out or anything, just trying to see what made your situation different from mine.

I will say this though... The ELD is even worse on the EP hatch in that it will let you **** the battery dry because it doesn't sense the load off the battery

For more reading on a Civic's ELD, click **HERE**

The alt goes to the fuse box to protect the wire. If the wire were not fused, it could potentially short out in an accident causing a fire.

My HC1400 rests at 13.0V when full, so there is no way it is making power above 13.0V. It is in fact my alt that is making power. I have my power run for my amps wired directly to the battery, not through the fuse block.

Now here is where I call //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/bsflag.gif.21f42eccd34b7d1eb1608fb1b59b69c3.gif

If you are playing your music directly from the battery and not through the fuse block, that will in turn draw down the battery, which in fact shows a load to the alt, hence it should kick up the charge field in the alt to make more power.

The link you gave was pretty much useless. The OP was giving half truths and making uneducated claims. The device you are talking about very well could exist, but it does not operate as you think it does.

 

[Jer510 10+ year member]

I just came back from the shop I got my setup installed and they said I need a bigger better battery. He also said I might need a capacitor but the battery should be the first upgrade. Should I replace my battery or add an extra battery?

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

The alt goes to the fuse box to protect the wire. If the wire were not fused, it could potentially short out in an accident causing a fire.
My HC1400 rests at 13.0V when full, so there is no way it is making power above 13.0V. It is in fact my alt that is making power. I have my power run for my amps wired directly to the battery, not through the fuse block.

Now here is where I call //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/bsflag.gif.21f42eccd34b7d1eb1608fb1b59b69c3.gif

If you are playing your music directly from the battery and not through the fuse block, that will in turn draw down the battery, which in fact shows a load to the alt, hence it should kick up the charge field in the alt to make more power.

The link you gave was pretty much useless. The OP was giving half truths and making uneducated claims. The device you are talking about very well could exist, but it does not operate as you think it does.

You are right. I just read a TSB on the ELD and it is supposed to sense battery charge level too and adjust alternator output accordingly as well. Maybe mine was malfunctioning before I had it disabled.

Then again, all my voltage issues occurred before I replaced the POS stock equivalent battery and upgraded the under hood ground wires. Crap, I still need to recycle that battery...

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

You are right. I just read a TSB on the ELD and it is supposed to sense battery charge level too and adjust alternator output accordingly as well. Maybe mine was malfunctioning before I had it disabled.
Then again, all my voltage issues occurred before I replaced the POS stock equivalent battery and upgraded the under hood ground wires. Crap, I still need to recycle that battery...

No problem. It just didn't all make sense is all. You can't trust everything that you read on the interwebz. Some things need questioning if they don't make sense. I was not trying to call you out, but more question the source. Hope you didn't take great offense. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif