What battery up front (only battery)? 1500 watts

-BC-

Junior Member
6
0
NJ
I am about to get my system installed and since my car and battery are almost 3 years old i want to put a better battery up front at the same time as the install. I have a old RF Power 1000.1bs for the subs and a RF Punch 400x4 for interiors. I had this same setup on my last car and I had no problems with the stock battery and alt but i only had that set up for about 3 months.

I want to only use 1 battery up front with none in the back.

I know 1500 watts isnt that much but i would rather be safe than sorry. The shop told me to go online and pick up an optima yellow top and i will be set but i am wondering if that is in face my best bet. I had a few shops also tell me my stock alt will be fine with this set up.

I dont plan on using playing the stereo while the car is off or anything like that..just a daily driver.

I did a search but most results came back from ppl with bigger systems and much more watts than mine.

Car is a 2008 Subaru Legacy GT

Thanks!

 
I run a yellow top(and have for 3yrs w/no probs) it held up well to my T1000.1bd and now my T600.2&T400.2 and I like it but there are so many battery's out there centered around car audio I would really guess it's a personal pref. type of thing.

 
will a bigger battery put additional strain on my alternator? If i get something like the Kinetik HC2400 will my alt struggle with it or does it not make a differnce at all?

I will give the Kinetiks some looking into.

 
will a bigger battery put additional strain on my alternator? If i get something like the Kinetik HC2400 will my alt struggle with it or does it not make a differnce at all?
Nope, it will help your alt by taking some of the load when your volume is up.

You will want to find out the dimensions of your stock location so you know if batts will fit before you buy.

I would go with a yellowtop or the deka intimidators are good and a bit cheaper.

 
I wouldn't run optima for larger systems because they have lower capacity than the other car audio batteries (batteries are a reserve tank not an alt). In general it is also a good idea to jump up 70 amps on your alternator for every 1000 watts rms you add of audio. Example if your car had a 70 amp alt originally and you add 1000 watts rms I would run a 140+ amp alt. I would also check to see if you vehicles have electric load devices in newer cars that pretty much cut out high use of your alternator in the name of saving a few gallons of gas a year.

I would also argue that 1500 is indeed alot of power due to the fact if it were indeed doing 1500 watts with efficiency and so forth could be very easily drawing 60-100 amps quite often to music and then actually figuring in the car's needs itself of 30 to 60 amps constantly. Back in the day cars had less electrical requirements and 80 to 110 amp alts with nothing that would cut down an alt to save gas. 800 watt systems would and could be murder on an electrical system

and being 20-40% more efficient at 1/3 power doesn't make up for a doubling of power as old school class a/b amps became more efficient when the volume knob was turned up 60-68% efficient at near full power is not as far off from 73 to 80% efficent as a class D is at near full power .

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

-BC-

Junior Member
Thread starter
-BC-
Joined
Location
NJ
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
10
Views
900
Last reply date
Last reply from
MONSONwarrior
1000007975.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    May 16, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
1000007974.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    May 16, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top