well rounded system?

hey guys, i went out and bought allot of componets, about 6-7 months ago. I'm looking at instaling it in my 2006 SCREW F150. Im Looking at doing the "Truck Bed Subwoofer Enclosure" only way the it's all going to fit. The good thing is im not home where everything was deliverd to. So i havent got a chance to mess with anyof it untill i educate myself on it all. and what to and not to do.

what ive got.

4 x Rockford Fosgate T215d2's

15" Power Stage 2 Subwoofer

Power Handling:

Peak: 2000 watts

RMS: 1000 watts

i didnt really think about it before i bougt my amps, so i initaly bought

2 X MA Audio HK2000D

2000W Digital Class X Competition Mono Block Amplifier

RMS Power @ 14.4V

750W x 1 @ 4 Ohm

1000W x 1 @ 2 Ohm

1500W x 1 @ 1 Ohm

RMS Power @ 17.0V

1000W x 1 @ 4 Ohm

1500W x 1 @ 2 Ohm

1800W x 1 @ 1 Ohm

Thermal, Short & Overload Protection Circuitry

Platinum Plated Screw Type RCA Jacks

Double Sided Black Epoxy PCB Board

Platinum Plated Block Terminals

Fully Unregulated Power Supply

Stainless Steel Finish Heat sink

Quiet Fan Cooling System

Remote Gain Control

Full Mosfet Circuitry

Frequency Response: 10Hz - 350Hz

24dB Low Pass Filter: 50Hz - 350Hz

24dB Subsonic Filter: 15Hz - 50Hz

Variable 0 - 18dB Bass Boost Control at 45Hz

RCA Input Sensitivity: 0.2 - 8V

Low level Input Impedance: 22K Ohms

Damping Factor: 200 @ 4 Ohm

1 Ohm Mono Stable

After Purching these someone told me that id have better results with these

4x Hifonics BXi 1606D

1-Channel Mono-Block Operation

1100 watts RMS x 1 chan. @ 2 Ohms / 1600 watts RMS x 1 chan. @ 1 Ohm

Super D-Class Topography

Ultra-Fi MOSFET Outputs

Illuminated Hifonics Logo

PMW MOSFET EXVP (Exponential Vari-Power Supply)

SPC Twin Turbo-Torroids with Simpatico Coil Design

Fully Adjustable Accu Cross

Crossover Includes:

24 dB Subsonic Filter (Adjusts 15 Hz - 50 Hz)

Bass Boost: Variable Bass Equalization (+18 dB @ 45 Hz)

Remote Bass Control Included

Balanced Line Inputs with Optional Hifonics MM-BLD-1

Gold RCA Line Outputs

Permits Amplifier Daisy-Chaining

4 Gauge Power Connectors

So i now have both..

there in lies my first question what is going to push my T2's better,

for highs and mids ive bought,

4X Diamond Audio S600A-07 6 1/2 componet sets. (that is 8 6 1/2's, 8 tweeters and 8 crossovers)

specs as follows.

6-1/2" HEX Series Component Speakers System

Power Handling:

Peak: 300 watts

RMS: 150 watts

Proprietary kevlar/nomex hex cone

Butyl rubber surround

1" Aluminum dome tweeter

Ferro fluid cooled neodymium Tweeters

Flat progressive spider with integrated lead wires

Intercooled motor design

4 ohms impedance

Competition grade crossovers

To push my mids and hi's

I've Bought

2x Kicker 08ZX850.4

ZX Series 4-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier

RMS Power Rating:

4 ohms: 175 watts x 4 chan.

2 ohms: 215 watts x 4 chan.

Bridged, 4 ohms: 425 watts x 2 chan.

Max power output: 850 watts x 4 chan.

MOSFET power supply

Wired remote bass level control included

LED power and protection indicators

Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB bass boost at 40 Hz)

Balanced differential inputs make KICKER ZX Amplifiers compatible with any factory radios

Eliminates unwanted noise in a system

Boost, gain, and crossover frequencies are top-mounted for easy access, and a handy protection indicator featuring a new flashing yellow low-voltage light enhances the end panel

Bridgeable operation

Speaker-level inputs compatible (switchable) through RCA connection

Automatic turn on modes: remote, DC offset, or signal sense

Thermal, voltage, and short circuit protection circuitry

Variable high-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave)

Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave)

CEA-2006 compliant amplifier

Frequency response: 20-20000 Hz

Dimensions: 23-1/4"L x 9-5/8"W x 2-1/8"H

8-gauge power and ground leads recommended. Contact us for information regarding a discount on a select amplifier kit when purchased together.

So the questions are,

Will all of this add up to a "well rounded system"? (are the componet sets going to keep up with the 15's?)

What mono amps are going to push my T2's harder? (the HK's or the brutis)

What kind of power plant am i looking at needing to build to keep all this equipment going? (ive heard optima yellow tops, or the Kinetik?)

 
4 component sets isn't exactly my idea of "well rounded"...
what if he mounts them all in a "circular" fashion around the cabin //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
So you think that the 4 componet sets are going to be able to keep up with the lows? right.

and yea. i was thinking planing on putting 2 6 1/2's and 2 tweeters in each door. the reason that i got 4 sets was, with 4 T2's i thought that i was going to need possibly even more than that to keep up.

So it is good to know that, im looking good as far as being able to talk/scream over the thump of the sub's.

do any of yall, or have any of yall, seen a build log that is anything like what im planning on doing? ive seen one "truck bed sub enclosure" on here though the guy that posted the build log didnt really do anything but before and after pictures.

um,..

and what do yall think is going to be my best bet on the mono amps? i would think, and my thinkin dont count for Jack, because i dont know jack, lol but if i use the brutis amps that is going to be 4 mono's and 2 hi/mid amps with a total of 6 amps.

how do you distribute out signal to 6 different amps?

 
and another thing, when i say "well Rounded" i mean......

Is all of my gear going to keep up with each other? are the T2's going to drown out the mids/hi's vice versa?

Im on here because i dont know what the heck im doing and hoping to get some educated/experienced knowledge.

Just one set? like i said i dont know much but i dont think that 2 6 1/2 componets are going to keep up with 4 T2's.

 
when you say "truck bed enclosure" " do you mean doing a blowthrough? As in your going to cut out a hole in your bed and cab and mount the box in the bed?

If so are you going to do that or take it to a shop? An 06 f150 is a pretty nice truck to be chopping up for a system.

 
Yea, i was planning on doing it myself (the blow threw). ive got a fairly good idea on how i want to do it. ive done allot of metal working in the past it wouldnt be the first thing that ive fabricated of that type. i think that the best way to do it would be similar to what people have done in the past. with the exception of what they used between the bed and cab.

And yea it is a nice truck, 2006 SCREW F150 lariat 4x4. Two tone white and gold.

Yall, share the same opinion as my wife and all my buddies over here. maybee your right and i should just put it all in The Explorer and be done with it.

Everyone has stated that 4 componet sets is over kill. Does that mean that just 2 will keep up?

 
Yea, that is why i asked, what i should look at as far as a power plant. in thinking that i am going to. have considerd. 4 yellow tops and an aux 230-300 amp alternator. only thing with that is. i think i know that if i was to do that id run them all in parallel. the only question fromt here is where do i pull the power off of that set up do i distribute the charge off the alternator to all four batteries and pull a draw off of all 4 batteries... or,... do i distribute the charge to just 3 batteries and pull the charge off of the last one in the series, or,... do i just hit the first battery in the series with the charge and take my pull off of the last one in the series,.. of cource grounding each battery seperately. directly to the frame, or am i, as i think i am all jacked up, and dont have a **** clue what im talking about.

as far as the parts that i listed out, ive already got them. bought and paid for. so that is more than likely what i am going to use. unless i can find someone to trade with once i get stateside, for something different.

the questions are do i use the HK's or the brutis'es to push my T2's?, how jacked up is my thoughts for a power plant?, and how do i get signal to all those amps in the correct manner?

Like i said before, I dont think that i am going to have any problem at all mounting, fabricating or figuring out how to get everythign where that i want it. im failrly sharp/mechanicaly inclined. though i dont know *anything about Audio. when it comes to wireing it all up. it all makes about as much sence as dual exhaust on a solar powerd car, know what i mean. lol

 
dont need an additional (aux) alternator. Just get a high output alt, do the big three, wire all batteries in parallel and you will be good to go. Think you are over complicating things. Also in a truck, you are going to likely be fine with one set of properly amped comps.

 
These are the componet sets and amps that ive already got. Will these work?

4X Diamond Audio S600A-07 6 1/2 componet sets. (that is 8 6 1/2's, 8 tweeters and 8 crossovers)

specs as follows.

6-1/2" HEX Series Component Speakers System

Power Handling:

Peak: 300 watts

RMS: 150 watts

Proprietary kevlar/nomex hex cone

Butyl rubber surround

1" Aluminum dome tweeter

Ferro fluid cooled neodymium Tweeters

Flat progressive spider with integrated lead wires

Intercooled motor design

4 ohms impedance

Competition grade crossovers

To push my mids and hi's

I've Bought

2x Kicker 08ZX850.4

ZX Series 4-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier

RMS Power Rating:

4 ohms: 175 watts x 4 chan.

2 ohms: 215 watts x 4 chan.

Bridged, 4 ohms: 425 watts x 2 chan.

Max power output: 850 watts x 4 chan.

MOSFET power supply

Wired remote bass level control included

LED power and protection indicators

Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB bass boost at 40 Hz)

Balanced differential inputs make KICKER ZX Amplifiers compatible with any factory radios

Eliminates unwanted noise in a system

Boost, gain, and crossover frequencies are top-mounted for easy access, and a handy protection indicator featuring a new flashing yellow low-voltage light enhances the end panel

Bridgeable operation

Speaker-level inputs compatible (switchable) through RCA connection

Automatic turn on modes: remote, DC offset, or signal sense

Thermal, voltage, and short circuit protection circuitry

Variable high-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave)

Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave)

CEA-2006 compliant amplifier

Frequency response: 20-20000 Hz

Dimensions: 23-1/4"L x 9-5/8"W x 2-1/8"H

8-gauge power and ground leads recommended. Contact us for information regarding a discount on a select amplifier kit when purchased together.

 
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