weird whine due to fualty wiring?

[hollowpoint 10+ year member]

Hello all,

I am posting for a friend that has a weird whine noise through his tweeter when his engine revs. Here is what he wrote.

"I got a Tsunami Competition Capacitor.

I followed the instructions and hooked it up. (This was verified by a pro audio shop ass being correctly hooked up.) I reconnected my battery and my cap began to squeal, it then blew my 150amp inline ANL fuse. I quickly disconnected it and started my car.

Ever since that incident I have gotten static and squealing (that matches the revs) out of my tweeters. It also seems to have weakened my whole electrical system. My lights dim while rolling the windows down (even with my sound system off). My lights also dim much more than they used to while the woofer hits. The tweeters also output the sound of the CD spinning in the headunit.The problem only exists while the engine runs.

This is not your common alternator squeal. I have tried everything I can think of.

Since the incident I have tried changing all of the following:

* Head unit

* Spark plugs

* Amps

* Speakers

* 4 gauge Ground wires

* 4 gauge Hot wires

* Shielded RCAs

* Remote wires

* ELD

* Head Unit Harness

* Spark Plugs

* Alternator

* Battery

I have also tried:

* Regrounding both my head unit and amp straight to the battery

* Power the head unit and amp straight to the battery

* Run the power on the seperate from the RCAs

* Tried 4 different head units

* Ground loop isolators

* Ground Noise suppressors

* Upgrading to 120Amp Alternator

* Upgrading my battery ground terminals

The only thing that seemed to provide a band aid solution is on my Pioneer, if I touch the RCA ground to the headunit, the problem completely goes away. This does not seem to work on the Sony, Alpine, nor Pyle head unit.

Please I am begging for someone to figure this out. This was originally posted at CivicForums, but so far no one has solved it.

Crappy Video (HD coming soon):



Thanks"

Click to read more...

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

Hello all,
I am posting for a friend that has a weird whine noise through his tweeter when his engine revs. Here is what he wrote.

"I got a Tsunami Competition Capacitor.

I followed the instructions and hooked it up. (This was verified by a pro audio shop ass being correctly hooked up.) I reconnected my battery and my cap began to squeal, it then blew my 150amp inline ANL fuse. I quickly disconnected it and started my car.

Ever since that incident I have gotten static and squealing (that matches the revs) out of my tweeters. It also seems to have weakened my whole electrical system. My lights dim while rolling the windows down (even with my sound system off). My lights also dim much more than they used to while the woofer hits. The tweeters also output the sound of the CD spinning in the headunit.The problem only exists while the engine runs.

This is not your common alternator squeal. I have tried everything I can think of.

Since the incident I have tried changing all of the following:

* Head unit

* Spark plugs

* Amps

* Speakers

* 4 gauge Ground wires

* 4 gauge Hot wires

* Shielded RCAs

* Remote wires

* ELD

* Head Unit Harness

* Spark Plugs

* Alternator

* Battery

I have also tried:

* Regrounding both my head unit and amp straight to the battery

* Power the head unit and amp straight to the battery

* Run the power on the seperate from the RCAs

* Tried 4 different head units

* Ground loop isolators

* Ground Noise suppressors

* Upgrading to 120Amp Alternator

* Upgrading my battery ground terminals

The only thing that seemed to provide a band aid solution is on my Pioneer, if I touch the RCA ground to the headunit, the problem completely goes away. This does not seem to work on the Sony, Alpine, nor Pyle head unit.

Please I am begging for someone to figure this out. This was originally posted at CivicForums, but so far no one has solved it.

Crappy Video (HD coming soon):

What equipment are you running? And was the equipment swapped out for new or other used equipment?

 

[Enellz 10+ year member]

Have you grounded the RCA's and are the tweeters hooked up to an amp? Also tell him dump the crap cap and upgrade his electric

 

[AlterEgo99 5,000+ posts]

Honestly, having listened to the YouTube video provided, it sounds exactly like the alternator whine I was experiencing. It does not sound like anything different than alternator whine.

Did he slow charge the cap using a resistor before actually hooking it up. If he did not, when you connect a completely discharged cap to a power source it is going to charge so **** quickly you will have all sorts of problems. Sounds like that is what happened and it back fed into the electrical system and did some damage somewhere.

As to the whine, at least with my Alpine (9887), I hooked it directly to the battery, grounded it to a common chassis ground point and then added a noise filter to the constant 12V line to the battery. That solved my issue.

I don't think the problem is with the tweeters other than the fact that they operate at such a high frequency they are always the culprit that will be happy to let you know you have any noise in the system, especially high pitched noise like alternator whine.

 

[hollowpoint 10+ year member]

What equipment are you running? And was the equipment swapped out for new or other used equipment?

This is what he is running... 005 Honda Civic Lx Silver Automatic Sedan

120Amp Alternator

Pioneer AVIC-F700BT

Alpine MRP-F300

Infinity REF6020CS

Infinity REF6022I

Pioneer GM-D510M

Kicker 07CVR154

I believe it is all new.

Have you grounded the RCA's and are the tweeters hooked up to an amp? Also tell him dump the crap cap and upgrade his electric

Not sure if he has grounded the RCAs I would imagine so but not sure and pretty tweeters are not amped. and as for the cap, i ran it past him and lol'ed.

Honestly, having listened to the YouTube video provided, it sounds exactly like the alternator whine I was experiencing. It does not sound like anything different than alternator whine.
Did he slow charge the cap using a resistor before actually hooking it up. If he did not, when you connect a completely discharged cap to a power source it is going to charge so **** quickly you will have all sorts of problems. Sounds like that is what happened and it back fed into the electrical system and did some damage somewhere.

As to the whine, at least with my Alpine (9887), I hooked it directly to the battery, grounded it to a common chassis ground point and then added a noise filter to the constant 12V line to the battery. That solved my issue.

I don't think the problem is with the tweeters other than the fact that they operate at such a high frequency they are always the culprit that will be happy to let you know you have any noise in the system, especially high pitched noise like alternator whine.

Slow charge is a valid point. I do not this he did that or at least never mentioned it. I will past the info along. Thanks and if you have anymore input let me know please.

Thanks

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

Honestly, having listened to the YouTube video provided, it sounds exactly like the alternator whine I was experiencing. It does not sound like anything different than alternator whine.
Did he slow charge the cap using a resistor before actually hooking it up. If he did not, when you connect a completely discharged cap to a power source it is going to charge so **** quickly you will have all sorts of problems. Sounds like that is what happened and it back fed into the electrical system and did some damage somewhere.

As to the whine, at least with my Alpine (9887), I hooked it directly to the battery, grounded it to a common chassis ground point and then added a noise filter to the constant 12V line to the battery. That solved my issue.

I don't think the problem is with the tweeters other than the fact that they operate at such a high frequency they are always the culprit that will be happy to let you know you have any noise in the system, especially high pitched noise like alternator whine.

that PATCHED you're issue, its just being blocked now.

to OP, disconnect you're RCA's, if the whine goes away, you need to move your RCA's and GND wire away from any power wires.

 

[hollowpoint 10+ year member]

He forgot about the slow charge for the cap. The cap has never activily been used in the system because of this problem. It could be alternator noise, but it isn't a problem with his alternator, it has since been upgraded and replaced.

@jkbeaumont1 He has hooked everything up to straight to the battery and it didn't fix it. He just noticed today, that if he pulled the head unit out of the hole in the dash, the majority of the whine went away. It seems that it is a proximity thing. The static remained unchanged, before you say there is always static, there wasn't static before.

Also

Ground loop filters don't work, neither do low pass filters

The only thing that worked was, on his Pioneer head unit, if he touched the ground from a female RCA preout to the headunit, all the whine and static disapeared. However the lights still heavily dimmed even with the system off while rolling down the windows.

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

search pioneer ground loop problem

or here Google for laziness

its a problem with pioneer units

 

[AlterEgo99 5,000+ posts]

He forgot about the slow charge for the cap. The cap has never activily been used in the system because of this problem. It could be alternator noise, but it isn't a problem with his alternator, it has since been upgraded and replaced.
@jkbeaumont1 He has hooked everything up to straight to the battery and it didn't fix it. He just noticed today, that if he pulled the head unit out of the hole in the dash, the majority of the whine went away. It seems that it is a proximity thing. The static remained unchanged, before you say there is always static, there wasn't static before.

Also

Ground loop filters don't work, neither do low pass filters

The only thing that worked was, on his Pioneer head unit, if he touched the ground from a female RCA preout to the headunit, all the whine and static disapeared. However the lights still heavily dimmed even with the system off while rolling down the windows.

Again, I typically suggest you check some on-line links that can step you through determining the source of the whine. It can be a pesky process but if you do it step by step you will most likely determine the source. I suggest this as I, among many others, have been through this and it becomes frustrating to simply guess and try this and that.

So, even though I'm telling you to go thru it step by step, I will offer this based on what you have said.

Is the HU in contact with ANY metal portion of the dash when it is mounted? You mentioned that a lot of the whine went away when it was removed from the dash. I would also suggest trying a noise filter on the constant 12V line to the HU. It's worth a shot and I'm not sure if you mentioned that you have done this.

Here are those links regarding alternator whine:

http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html

http://www.docstoc.com/docs/2423218/How-can-you-eliminate-alternator-whine-in-a-car-audio-system