Wall Help, Need Experience

[AcidikBass20 10+ year member]

Going to start a new build in my 1996 Honda Accord. Right now I have a box built by Chris Norris in there, doin a 144.1 @ 51hz, and not satisfied, so I'm going for SPL on this one. The current box was built for daily, port on passenger side, both subs and port up. Box is great, but now I'm looking for numbers.

Current Equipment:

2 Ascendent Audio 18" Mayhem, D2 coils

2 Sundown SAZ-3000s

2 XS Power d3100s (at the time it was 4 Batcap 2000s)

Orion 500.4

Infinity Reference coaxial speakers (6x9, 6.5, 5.5)

Earthquake Tweeters

Alpine IVA-W505/p1

.5"x1"x48" copper busbars

Knu Kolossus Flecks 1/0 wire, 2 pos runs, 2 gnd runs

Stinger fuse holders and 300a fuses

stock battery up front

DC Power 250sp alternator

So here is where the fun begins, this is where I need experience. I know I'll get a ton of input from Norris, but I'm just looking for other ideas too, trying to collect all the knowledge about this before I do it.

Front Design:

The design I have in mind is the port behind the driver, and the subs on the passenger side, the problem I have is staggering the woofers will load them differently, and I don't know how thats going to affect me. Another idea is to do like Meade (I'm not a big fan, but it was a cool build) and put the subs on the bottom and port on the top. (I know it's a common thing now, but the first time I saw it was Meade's build) The problem with this idea is that it will sacrifice my numbers, which I really don't want to do.

Interior:

I have heard that when you do a wall like this, you want to keep the box as square as possible. The problem is, to keep it square, I am going to be sacrificing a lot of my room. I wanted to have the box follow the back of the car, like down the rear window, through the deck, into the trunk, and back out, to maximize my room, but that means all kinda of funky angles for the sound waves to move around. so if I build it square, I would add some stuff onto the back and sides for aesthetics.

Material:

I was very interested in doing this entirely in birch plywood, due to the fact that this is going to heavy, and I am trying to minimize damages. Cost is a factor, but I feel like with the money I save by going MDF, I will have to use it anyway to update the suspension! The plus side of MDF is that it is more dense then birch, and I feel like it would be more solid. Ideas?

On the inside of the box, I want to fiberglass, to smooth out the wood and add rigidity. When I glass it, should I do the entire interior of the box, or just go ahead and do edges? On the exterior, I don't like carpet, and Second Skin JUST came out with a really cool box covered sludge, so I think that will help with rigidity too.

Construction:

What glue do you guys think I should use. Using screws on the MDF or birch can split it, and I might use small nails (Norris's Method) with glue, but does that affect the wood at all? I would LIKE to use glue alone, but I'm not sure how it will play out. Ideas?

This is what I got so far, all ideas and opinions are appreciated! Thanks Guys!

-Steve Hoff

Click to read more...

 

[TnT_Sounds 10+ year member]

Is there an Index? Maybe some chapters?

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[bsean63 10+ year member]

Is there an Index? Maybe some chapters?
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

you need to be in my thread immediaatelly

 

[TMali 10+ year member]

damn, id be pissed if i typed that whole thing and just before i hit enter, i hit back or something

 

[TnT_Sounds 10+ year member]

I'm sure there is a copy at http://www.Barnes&Noble.com

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[Bumpin' Goalie 10+ year member]

hahaha informative bump

 

[AcidikBass20 10+ year member]

well ill give you guys a few days to read it, but you owe me some advise!

 

[AcidikBass20 10+ year member]

Im pretty sure it is going to be port on top because I dont want the subs to load unevenly, unless I get a great idea!

 

[TMali 10+ year member]

well ill give you guys a few days to read it, but you owe me some advise!

lol, it might take me a week

 

[sub-FATHER 10+ year member]

big box, big slot port 16 to 20 cubes per foot of box airspace and tune the box to 55hz and you will have your one note wonder that rips up a 155+ with that

keep the slot on the passenger side. and the inside dimensions wont mean squat, just get all the inside edges rounded with and use 45 degree angles in each corner.

if you want to get crazy just bondo up all the corners and make em round and when your done with all that fiberglass the inside of the box after you know its playing high.

 

[AcidikBass20 10+ year member]

problem is, if i port the driver side, i have to stagger the subs, which unevenly loads them.

 

[AcidikBass20 10+ year member]

what about my windows. I can seal the roof and the floor, but I dont wanna scratch the windows, but I want them to be airtight. I would wall it at the B-pillar, but I don't want to be crushed against my wheel. Ideas?

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

Porting in the center or along the top would be my choices honestly because it'll be even loading for the subs and shouldnt be quiet by any means...plus unless youre going hardcorse and tuning to like 43hz and upping your power in the future, it's really hard to try and hang with the big dogs in ss 1-2...like impossible in your sedan almost (unless youre really going all-out with it). I think itd be more enjoyable for you (just guessing here) to still tune within reason (like 35hz or so) and do a centered port...so you can still play music and still wouldnt do bad on the meter at all.

 

[plugitin 5,000+ posts]

Porting in the center or along the top would be my choices honestly because it'll be even loading for the subs and shouldnt be quiet by any means...plus unless youre going hardcorse and tuning to like 43hz and upping your power in the future, it's really hard to try and hang with the big dogs in ss 1-2...like impossible in your sedan almost (unless youre really going all-out with it). I think itd be more enjoyable for you (just guessing here) to still tune within reason (like 35hz or so) and do a centered port...so you can still play music and still wouldnt do bad on the meter at all.

x2

 

[sub-FATHER 10+ year member]

problem is, if i port the driver side, i have to stagger the subs, which unevenly loads them.

stagering em will be just fine. passenger side high and the one in the middle low. and you dont have to run it all the way to the b piller if you dont have to. it'll give you some breathing room and when you compete you scoot your seats all the way foward anyway and crowd the mic for higher spl.

I though you wanted numbers outta this build?