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<blockquote data-quote="AcidikBass20" data-source="post: 6586945" data-attributes="member: 604498"><p>Going to start a new build in my 1996 Honda Accord. Right now I have a box built by Chris Norris in there, doin a 144.1 @ 51hz, and not satisfied, so I'm going for SPL on this one. The current box was built for daily, port on passenger side, both subs and port up. Box is great, but now I'm looking for numbers.</p><p></p><p>Current Equipment:</p><p></p><p>2 Ascendent Audio 18" Mayhem, D2 coils</p><p></p><p>2 Sundown SAZ-3000s</p><p></p><p>2 XS Power d3100s (at the time it was 4 Batcap 2000s)</p><p></p><p>Orion 500.4</p><p></p><p>Infinity Reference coaxial speakers (6x9, 6.5, 5.5)</p><p></p><p>Earthquake Tweeters</p><p></p><p>Alpine IVA-W505/p1</p><p></p><p>.5"x1"x48" copper busbars</p><p></p><p>Knu Kolossus Flecks 1/0 wire, 2 pos runs, 2 gnd runs</p><p></p><p>Stinger fuse holders and 300a fuses</p><p></p><p>stock battery up front</p><p></p><p>DC Power 250sp alternator</p><p></p><p>So here is where the fun begins, this is where I need experience. I know I'll get a ton of input from Norris, but I'm just looking for other ideas too, trying to collect all the knowledge about this before I do it.</p><p></p><p>Front Design:</p><p></p><p>The design I have in mind is the port behind the driver, and the subs on the passenger side, the problem I have is staggering the woofers will load them differently, and I don't know how thats going to affect me. Another idea is to do like Meade (I'm not a big fan, but it was a cool build) and put the subs on the bottom and port on the top. (I know it's a common thing now, but the first time I saw it was Meade's build) The problem with this idea is that it will sacrifice my numbers, which I really don't want to do.</p><p></p><p>Interior:</p><p></p><p>I have heard that when you do a wall like this, you want to keep the box as square as possible. The problem is, to keep it square, I am going to be sacrificing a lot of my room. I wanted to have the box follow the back of the car, like down the rear window, through the deck, into the trunk, and back out, to maximize my room, but that means all kinda of funky angles for the sound waves to move around. so if I build it square, I would add some stuff onto the back and sides for aesthetics.</p><p></p><p>Material:</p><p></p><p>I was very interested in doing this entirely in birch plywood, due to the fact that this is going to heavy, and I am trying to minimize damages. Cost is a factor, but I feel like with the money I save by going MDF, I will have to use it anyway to update the suspension! The plus side of MDF is that it is more dense then birch, and I feel like it would be more solid. Ideas?</p><p></p><p>On the inside of the box, I want to fiberglass, to smooth out the wood and add rigidity. When I glass it, should I do the entire interior of the box, or just go ahead and do edges? On the exterior, I don't like carpet, and Second Skin JUST came out with a really cool box covered sludge, so I think that will help with rigidity too.</p><p></p><p>Construction:</p><p></p><p>What glue do you guys think I should use. Using screws on the MDF or birch can split it, and I might use small nails (Norris's Method) with glue, but does that affect the wood at all? I would LIKE to use glue alone, but I'm not sure how it will play out. Ideas?</p><p></p><p>This is what I got so far, all ideas and opinions are appreciated! Thanks Guys!</p><p></p><p>-Steve Hoff</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AcidikBass20, post: 6586945, member: 604498"] Going to start a new build in my 1996 Honda Accord. Right now I have a box built by Chris Norris in there, doin a 144.1 @ 51hz, and not satisfied, so I'm going for SPL on this one. The current box was built for daily, port on passenger side, both subs and port up. Box is great, but now I'm looking for numbers. Current Equipment: 2 Ascendent Audio 18" Mayhem, D2 coils 2 Sundown SAZ-3000s 2 XS Power d3100s (at the time it was 4 Batcap 2000s) Orion 500.4 Infinity Reference coaxial speakers (6x9, 6.5, 5.5) Earthquake Tweeters Alpine IVA-W505/p1 .5"x1"x48" copper busbars Knu Kolossus Flecks 1/0 wire, 2 pos runs, 2 gnd runs Stinger fuse holders and 300a fuses stock battery up front DC Power 250sp alternator So here is where the fun begins, this is where I need experience. I know I'll get a ton of input from Norris, but I'm just looking for other ideas too, trying to collect all the knowledge about this before I do it. Front Design: The design I have in mind is the port behind the driver, and the subs on the passenger side, the problem I have is staggering the woofers will load them differently, and I don't know how thats going to affect me. Another idea is to do like Meade (I'm not a big fan, but it was a cool build) and put the subs on the bottom and port on the top. (I know it's a common thing now, but the first time I saw it was Meade's build) The problem with this idea is that it will sacrifice my numbers, which I really don't want to do. Interior: I have heard that when you do a wall like this, you want to keep the box as square as possible. The problem is, to keep it square, I am going to be sacrificing a lot of my room. I wanted to have the box follow the back of the car, like down the rear window, through the deck, into the trunk, and back out, to maximize my room, but that means all kinda of funky angles for the sound waves to move around. so if I build it square, I would add some stuff onto the back and sides for aesthetics. Material: I was very interested in doing this entirely in birch plywood, due to the fact that this is going to heavy, and I am trying to minimize damages. Cost is a factor, but I feel like with the money I save by going MDF, I will have to use it anyway to update the suspension! The plus side of MDF is that it is more dense then birch, and I feel like it would be more solid. Ideas? On the inside of the box, I want to fiberglass, to smooth out the wood and add rigidity. When I glass it, should I do the entire interior of the box, or just go ahead and do edges? On the exterior, I don't like carpet, and Second Skin JUST came out with a really cool box covered sludge, so I think that will help with rigidity too. Construction: What glue do you guys think I should use. Using screws on the MDF or birch can split it, and I might use small nails (Norris's Method) with glue, but does that affect the wood at all? I would LIKE to use glue alone, but I'm not sure how it will play out. Ideas? This is what I got so far, all ideas and opinions are appreciated! Thanks Guys! -Steve Hoff [/QUOTE]
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