VIDEO 4 18's 50 cubic feet 20" diameter port 23Hz tune 14,000 RMS

IB subs in a ported enclosure, I'm confused //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
Infinite Baffle = very very large sealed box

Typically a woofer that has a q of around .7 to .9 and a low FS. A driver that would most likely work well enough in a large low-tuned ported box.

Props on the build I bet it sounds awesome. Buy some high quality pipe organ music for plenty of 8-20hz notes

 
hahaha... 2 years ago I was seriousely considering an 8Hz tune! 64' stacks lol. google "kryptonitewhite Twin Towers HT build log" I have 2 128 cubic foot enclosures, 12" ports, 14Hz tune for my HT off two EP4000's. I originally left the 48" ports full length for a 6.5Hz tune! I cut them down to 10Hz tune, then 14Hz now.

(edit: guess it's in my sig! prolly not finished tho)

I am a firm believer in overpowering drivers. I think more drivers are killed from clipping and distortion than from overpowering cleanly. Obviousely, as I am running IB3 18's off 3000 watt amps, though obviousely I'm not giving them 3000 watts. I've been repeatedly told that both the Maelstrom-X 18 and the 06' XXX 18 will take 3000 RMS all day long. So most people would think my 4 AP30001Ds would still be over kill when I upgrade to either driver.

However I don't want to push the AP30001Ds hard, I would really like to get 2 more HO alts from Iraggi, 4 more AP30001Ds, and 2 more AGM batteries. However, I don't think my van could handle it. She doesn't flex a whole lot on the outside, but I can see and hear so much stress already from the IB3's. IDK if I could squeeze all that into her, and, thats a lot more $$$ were talking.

So if I went crazy and got 06' XXX's... should I just get dual 4 ohm and run each one off of an AP30001D? Or should I try to get 4 more and run 1 AP per 2 ohm coil?

 
I need to check the front AC door flaps? How do I do that?!

****** is OK, had it flushed. No broken mounts, but the bushings are getting worn, rear leaf springs getting saggy, need re-arched, he said I'm ok for a while..nothing imminent.

But.. my AC compressor and blower:

I was told to disconnect my compressor when I got the van, but I shouldnt have. Now the berring/clutch is rusted and complaining. Dude said just let it go. When it goes it goes. I bought a recharge kit with oil, didn't help. It's full charged..but not cold in front, not blowing in front, but rear is freezing and blows like a tornado. So I need to check the doors/flaps under the dash?

 
It was 105 cubic feet, so 18.5" long port was a 14.5Hz tuning. With the rear wall, now it's 50 cubic feet, so 23Hz tuning. Without the rear wall, the port just wasn't utilized... between the flex resulting in pressure loss, the air leaks resulting in more pressure loss, and just so much airspace in general. I wish I could have built the wall further back, but several things made it more feezable to do it where it's at. I think it sounded much better, reached much deeper, and was a lot more effortless with 105 cubes. With the chance to do things all over again, I'd go bigger!

 
I haven't built a box for it yet. I have alot of subs. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Your shit looks tight, it inspires me.

 
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