using a capcitor does help..........

you have a degree in electronice & you use 8 ga wire on 1200 watt amp! mmmm
I never planned on going over 400 watts. NOW, did my degree help me fiqure out why I used 8awg wire and not 1/0 in the beginning ?

WB

 
I stopped here because this can't possibly apply to a car's charging system.
The cap won't even finish one discharge cycle because you have a battery sitting there with (relatively) infinite current at 12.5v. The cap will never have voltage lower than the battery.

That is one of the big problems with the application of stiffening caps in a 14v charging system. About 3/4 of the energy stored is below the lowest voltage of the system.

The CAP I have is charged to match the battery voltage and there is also a potentiometer on it if you would like the output voltage to be lower than the battery voltage. I am running mine at 14.8, the lowest I have seen the cap reach and immediatly charge back up to 14.8 , was 13.30 pulling 25 amps.

WB

 
It's because he has a degree in Electrical Engineering that we are supposed to take his word.
I know several people that have a Bachelor's, however, these people are still complete idiots. A degree doesn't mean you're smart, it just means you paid a bunch of money on a piece of paper. What makes a person smart is their actual knowledge and common sense.

This is a prime example of taking what someone with a degree says with a grain of salt....in this case, I think a grain is a wee bit little.
Sounds like you need to start surrounding yourself with more intelligent people. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

WB

 
I am not bashing you but read the entire thread. Some said your car has to be as long as a football field in order for you to need to use 1/0 wire.
WB
I used 1/0 in my 1997 Civic coupe and in my 2006 Mustang GT. For the Civic it may have been overkill, but I only wanted to pull the interior apart ONCE versus every time I upgrade or change my mind. I bet I have more wattage in unused equipment than you have currently installed in your vehicle:D

As for my 2006 Mustang GT, I ran 1/0 because my 25 to Life Power 1000 directly accepts 1/0 wire for the power and ground connections:eek:

 
Have any proof? Because I have numerous test results that prove you wrong.
besides your Devry degree?
Well , that is an intelligent question. If this thread was completely on an intelligent level , some one would have ask what capacitor I was using and THEN and only THEN could you tell me you used the same capacitor only to continue having the same problems.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

WB

 
I stopped here because this can't possibly apply to a car's charging system.

The cap won't even finish one discharge cycle because you have a battery sitting there with (relatively) infinite current at 12.5v. The cap will never have voltage lower than the battery.

That is one of the big problems with the application of stiffening caps in a 14v charging system. About 3/4 of the energy stored is below the lowest voltage of the system.
That's if the alternator can supply enough current to the battery to keep it at 13.8V.... this doesn't always happen if large loads are placed on the electrical system as a whole.

If an alternator is not strong enough to supply sufficient amperage while an amplifier is operating, the system voltage is going to drop.

example: If a 13.8V system contains an alternator that can supply enough current for a 1000W total sustained draw, it needs to be able to supply a constant 72.5 Amps plus the current needed to keep the battery charged to maintain 13.8V.

Now, if that same system is demanding 1500W, the Amperage requirements increase to 108.7 Amps plus the battery's needs.

If the alternator taps out at 80A, what's going to happen? The battery is going to assist. When the battery assists in this manner, it's being discharged, which is going to lower it's output voltage over time.

Place a capacitor in the mix, and those constant dips in the capacitor's input/charge voltage will affect it, as well. Meaning, the capacitor will constantly be trying to obtain 100% charge as the fluctuations between the lowest dip and peak system voltage are rapidly occurring, creating further load on the system.

example: if the system voltage drops to 11.5V, the cap will charge itself to this voltage, as it deems 11.5V is 100%. If the power source voltage increases back to it's normal 13.8V, the cap will now have to charge up to this, while simultaneously acting as a power source for the amplifier(s), accessories, and even the battery as they . Rinse, repeat, in very rapid succession. Voila - the cap becomes a nasty little load, since charging from 11.5V to 13.8V takes the remaining 4 of the 5 TC's to reach max charge.

 
I want you to think about what you just wrote by posing a couple of questions. Where does the capacitor get its charge from? If your capacitor is constantly being drained due to a less than adequate electrical system to support the sound system, how long do you think your alternator is going to last?
A cap is charge in the begining form the battery with out the car started so therfore it gets it's charge from the battery and recharges from the battery .

My alternator will not be affected by the CAP, only a weak battery will cause the alternator to over work which is why most of you in here not using caps will in the long run experience problems due to nothing storing power to eleviate the battery constantly discharging when the boooom hits. Think of the cap as a timming device that releases juice only when needed and never more than it can. Your battery being connected straight to your amps , doesn't have anything regulate the juice from pooring out. Before installing my cap my amp was so hot after extensive play I could cook an egg on the thing. Now it is running much cooler. A video of my proof will soon follow.

WB

 
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