Upgrading my not so old system for better quality.

lowcel
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I am in the planning stages of my new system. It will be in a 2012 Toyota 4Runner. My current system consists of a Kenwood DDX-372BT head unit, AudioControl EQL, MB Quart RA1000.4 amp (2x125 and 1x500 for sub), RE Audio SEX12 sub, and Alpine Type R 6 1/2" components. I'm just not happy with it.

So, for the upgrade the only item I intend on keeping is the head unit. Hopefully that won't hold me back. Below are the components that I intend on running. Please let me know if you think any of them should be replaced by something in the same price range.

Head Unit - Kenwood DDX-372BT

Processor - MiniDSP C-DSP 6x8

Sub Amp - PPI Phantom Series P1000.1

Midbass amp - PPI Phantom Series P600.2

Midrange and tweeter amp - PPI Phantom Series P900.4

Sub - Sundown SA18 in a ported enclosure built by CSCStang

Highs - PPI P65c3 3 way components.

I know the sub is a bit overkill and depending on whether I decide to compete or not that could be replaced later. I have already sound deadened the five doors, I will do the roof, floor, and rear panels this Spring.

 
So why would you get rid of your current 4 channel? Also IMO the Type R components sound very nice for what they are, do you really believe that PPI will be a big "upgrade"?
The PPI components are three way. I'll do the 3 1/2 and tweeter in the dash and / or a-pillar.

I'm not sure about the MB Quart amp. I could add an additional two channel MB Quart amp and save a little money. I just don't know about the quality of the MB amp vs the PPI. Opinions are certainly welcome, that's why I posted.

 
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I have the same head unit and i love it. However, if you're looking for audiophile controls, it simply doesn't have them. But for my daily use i think its great! There are only few Double dins out there with a volume KNOB lol

 
I have the same head unit and i love it. However, if you're looking for audiophile controls, it simply doesn't have them. But for my daily use i think its great! There are only few Double dins out there with a volume KNOB lol
Am I wrong in thinking that the DSP will take care of all of the controls I will need?

 
Am I wrong in thinking that the DSP will take care of all of the controls I will need?
No, not at all. But for simplicity's sake, having everything you need on the head unit might be more convenient for you. Its up to you my man, if you love your HU, get a DSP. If it makes more financial sense to just get a HU with everything on it, then go for that. Price things out and see whats in your favor. I dont thnk you'd be making a mistake going either way, we all have our preferences.

 
No, not at all. But for simplicity's sake, having everything you need on the head unit might be more convenient for you. Its up to you my man, if you love your HU, get a DSP. If it makes more financial sense to just get a HU with everything on it, then go for that. Price things out and see whats in your favor. I dont thnk you'd be making a mistake going either way, we all have our preferences.
I'm six channels for my highs so I will need an active crossover. The minidsp will take care of that and allow me time delays for each individual speaker. I don't know of any "affordable" head unit that would allow me the same level of adjustment. I very well could be wrong though.

 
The PPI components are three way. I'll do the 3 1/2 and tweeter in the dash and / or a-pillar.
I'm not sure about the MB Quart amp. I could add an additional two channel MB Quart amp and save a little money. I just don't know about the quality of the MB amp vs the PPI. Opinions are certainly welcome, that's why I posted.
PPI and quart are about the same. Both once great brands that are now pretty much the same low end Chinese fare. Unless you're OCD about having things "match" for cosmetic reasons you might as well just keep the Quart 4 channel.

I like 3 way components but if you're planning to active crossover you might do better browsing madisound or parts express for raw drivers. I'd have very low expectations out of 250$ 3 way components with passive crossover.

 
PPI and quart are about the same. Both once great brands that are now pretty much the same low end Chinese fare. Unless you're OCD about having things "match" for cosmetic reasons you might as well just keep the Quart 4 channel.
I like 3 way components but if you're planning to active crossover you might do better browsing madisound or parts express for raw drivers. I'd have very low expectations out of 250$ 3 way components with passive crossover.
One reason I'm sold on the PPI is that Ed Rice won a world championship with them last year. In my mind if they are nice enough to win worlds they would be good enough for me. I know that install is a huge part but you have to have a decent speaker as well. I have also looked at the Daytons and haven't ruled them out.

I miss the good old days when PPI, Memphis, Rockford, etc were all good quality. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
I would start with the DSP and see if you can tune your way to a better sound. Being able to set proper crossovers t/a and EQ properly in addition to running active might do enough for you. Amps arent/shouldnt change the sound all that much to where most people would notice. Then if you dont like the way the drivers sound and cant EQ them to your liking then swap them out.

 
One reason I'm sold on the PPI is that Ed Rice won a world championship with them last year. In my mind if they are nice enough to win worlds they would be good enough for me. I know that install is a huge part but you have to have a decent speaker as well. I have also looked at the Daytons and haven't ruled them out.
I miss the good old days when PPI, Memphis, Rockford, etc were all good quality. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Most of those winning SQ cars sound pretty awful by most people's standards, and the guys that are good at doing that could do it with almost anything. That tier amp is OK I suppose, but I'd still be looking at Dayton Tang Band, Vifa, etc. particularly if you don't need the passive 3 way crossover.

High end Rockford is still quite nice, but their lower lines have been junk since Series 1 in the late 90's.

 
Most of those winning SQ cars sound pretty awful by most people's standards, and the guys that are good at doing that could do it with almost anything. That tier amp is OK I suppose, but I'd still be looking at Dayton Tang Band, Vifa, etc. particularly if you don't need the passive 3 way crossover.
High end Rockford is still quite nice, but their lower lines have been junk since Series 1 in the late 90's.
Thanks, I'm not planning on buying anything right away so I have time to research. One thing that is limiting me is that the largest size I can get into my dash location is 3-1/2". To compete in the rookie class (if I decide to compete) all the speakers have to go in the factory locations except the tweeters and sub.

 
Thanks, I'm not planning on buying anything right away so I have time to research. One thing that is limiting me is that the largest size I can get into my dash location is 3-1/2". To compete in the rookie class (if I decide to compete) all the speakers have to go in the factory locations except the tweeters and sub.
That sounds like a recipe for disaster. IMO dash locations reflected off the windshield sound absolutely terrible. The GOOD way to run 3 way is to make pods (which can be aimed as needed) up by the A pillars for the mids and tweets and keep things down low crossed over low. If you could get everything in the kicks you might be able to salvage some decent imaging as well but it sounds like that's out. 90% of this is going to be location. All the processing in the world isn't going to fix bad locations for factory speakers and good locations will often do enough of the job for you that you won't need expensive processing to sound quite nice.

 
That sounds like a recipe for disaster. IMO dash locations reflected off the windshield sound absolutely terrible. The GOOD way to run 3 way is to make pods (which can be aimed as needed) up by the A pillars for the mids and tweets and keep things down low crossed over low. If you could get everything in the kicks you might be able to salvage some decent imaging as well but it sounds like that's out. 90% of this is going to be location. All the processing in the world isn't going to fix bad locations for factory speakers and good locations will often do enough of the job for you that you won't need expensive processing to sound quite nice.
I'm not sure why it would be a recipe for disaster. At the worst I would eliminate the 3-1/2" and go with a two way with the 6-1/2" and tweeter.

 
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