Two subs different rms

[Mike91]

I know this might have been asked before but I had two 4 ohm Rockford fosgate p1s and my amp blew takin one sub with it, idk how, but I bought a new amp a jl audio j2 500 and my friend gave me a Alpine Type E. Both speakers are 4 ohms but the rockford has a rms or 150 and the alpine is 250 watts, my question is will it blow my other Rockford hookin it in parallel with the Alpine?

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[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

it won't blow it, but i dont suggest mixing different subs together

 

[Mike91]

Alright thanks, I know its not recommended but it'll do till I can buy another alpine or two totally new subs

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

Welcome to caraudio.com!

To answer your question, no. But two different subs isn't going to sound as good as two of the same sub, although there are of course exceptions.

Here's a little off-topic advice...Sell your equipment and start over. I'm just suggesting that you can do a lot better for the money //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Here's a couple options for some starter subs -

Acoustic Auto Tunes

http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_2167_Alpine-SWR-1242D-12-inch-Dual-4-ohm-Type-R-1500-Watts-Car-Subwoofer-SWR1242D-.html?aff=72182

SSA Store - Sundown Audio SA-8 Subwoofer

Sub Woofers - Skar Audio - SSA STORE

As far as amps go, take a look into MB Quart Discus, Audiopipe, Audioque, Cadence, and there's many more to list that I can't think of off the top of my head.

I should also let you know that when it comes to car audio, what matters MOST is the box enclosure(s) and the wiring/install. I would rather have a P1 in a proper enclosure than a P3 in a poorly built pre-fab box. And the quality of your wiring job, as well as the amount of current that you constantly supply your amps with is extremely important as far as the quality of sound (no cutting-out of notes), loudness, and reliability is concerned.

Good luck!

 

[09civic 5,000+ posts]

Welcome to caraudio.com!
To answer your question, no. But two different subs isn't going to sound as good as two of the same sub, although there are of course exceptions.

Here's a little off-topic advice...Sell your equipment and start over. I'm just suggesting that you can do a lot better for the money //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Here's a couple options for some starter subs -

Acoustic Auto Tunes

http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_2167_Alpine-SWR-1242D-12-inch-Dual-4-ohm-Type-R-1500-Watts-Car-Subwoofer-SWR1242D-.html?aff=72182

SSA Store - Sundown Audio SA-8 Subwoofer

Sub Woofers - Skar Audio - SSA STORE

As far as amps go, take a look into MB Quart Discus, Audiopipe, Audioque, Cadence, and there's many more to list that I can't think of off the top of my head.

I should also let you know that when it comes to car audio, what matters MOST is the box enclosure(s) and the wiring/install. I would rather have a P1 in a proper enclosure than a P3 in a poorly built pre-fab box. And the quality of your wiring job, as well as the amount of current that you constantly supply your amps with is extremely important as far as the quality of sound (no cutting-out of notes), loudness, and reliability is concerned.

Good luck!

First time ive ever seen you say something proper and mature lol

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

Not recommended since the different subs will react differently in the same box.

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

First time ive ever seen you say something proper and mature lol

Wtf? Really dude?

 

[09civic 5,000+ posts]

Wtf? Really dude?

it was a joke...

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

it was a joke...

And it went right over my head lol

 

[09civic 5,000+ posts]

And it went right over my head lol

lol i see

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

i'd just like to add, that in my experience, it's the sub that takes out the amp, especially rf subs. i have plenty of nice hefty blown amps to back that up. and it comes down to operator error. check out that p1 that is still good, and see if it smells all burned up. look for cooked tinsel leads, and listen for coil rub. ohm the coil out and compare to stock t/s specs from rockford. if they were paired up, and the one went, taking the amp with it, it is very likely the other is not too far behind, and i would hate to see you kill the jl, too. i'm not sure the jl could take the abuse well. i also know what a kick in the pants it is to someone when you turn around and sell a gift, so there is the option of picking up another matching type-e and it would be paired good with the amp, and run like that for a while. there is also the option of running just the single sub. as for the blown amp- if it was worth anything, there is guys on here that can repair it for cheap. if the p1 is still good, not just working, then you could possibly sell it to pay for the amp repair. learn to recognize clipping and distortion, as that will destroy any sub.