two dd 9500 15's or one dd redline 800 18"?


shredder2

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Nov 19, 2017
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I'd get with a designer like I stated and be specific regarding your goals/current equipment, 6K don't magically appear just because you've got a Md8k. A local guy has a Cmax lithium bank with all the extras on the same amp I think and clamped under 5K at the last event around here iirc (155+ on 6 12's?). And yes... 150 is achievable on music on lower power. I'm somewhere around 150 with a single 18, the car is holding it back but it's musical and personally I want my car to last a bit.. it does around 150 and I'm good. Chasing that meter can be expensive and frustrating in my experience, why not settle for a loud daily and with testing you can see gains over time?
Tuning 38 ain't a bad place to start for numbers/daily if you don't play low often, most like under 35... just throwing that out there. I'd maybe go with 2 8" aeros on your power, tune lower and raise tuning to meter once you do some testing. I think 100in2 of aeroport ought to be enough offhand but better to model it up.
 
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ferguson621

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Feb 3, 2015
427
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Olathe, ks
Ok so your doing 150 on music with one 18".....so its possible with my current setup? What are you running to be able to achieve that? And your right i should get with a designer
 
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shredder2

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Ok so your doing 150 on music with one 18".....so its possible with my current setup? What are you running to be able to achieve that? And your right i should get with a designer
22207

Overlook the single grounds at the amp please... dual inputs are on the way
I suppose I drew some attention...
22212
 
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ferguson621

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Feb 3, 2015
427
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Olathe, ks
Nice! Looks neat and simple, see that's why I was wondering if i should have went with the dd redline 800.....cause its the 9500 motor with 4" coils....i know id have slightly less cone area, but the box would've been half the size needed for these two 9500's
 
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ferguson621

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Feb 3, 2015
427
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Olathe, ks
So I wasted $40 and 10 days of waiting on a design that I already came up with....fuckiing retarded....never again. Anyways I built another box and ended up with 13 cubes after port displacement...167 sq inches of port, 34hz ....and they're not even close to as loud as when they were in the shiitty box I just slapped together....this one is double baffled top and bottom with 1 1/4 galvanized pipe in two spots for bracing, and the port is 5 inches wide and as wide as the box, and its facing forward.
 

blazian87

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Mar 12, 2007
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So I wasted $40 and 10 days of waiting on a design that I already came up with....fuckiing retarded....never again. Anyways I built another box and ended up with 13 cubes after port displacement...167 sq inches of port, 34hz ....and they're not even close to as loud as when they were in the shiitty box I just slapped together....this one is double baffled top and bottom with 1 1/4 galvanized pipe in two spots for bracing, and the port is 5 inches wide and as wide as the box, and its facing forward.
Wait a min.. Are you only using one 5" wide aeroport? That's not big enough. Go with two 8" flared.

I would recommend these. It adds to the cost of the box but it's worth it. They have adjustable pieces that connect so you can change your tuning any time. Tuning will depend on music choice. Maybe you'd like a 37hz but change it up and try for yourself. You can always go for a higher tune when you compete and change it back for daily.

Also, double baffling the bottom was a bit overdoing it and a waste of internal space IMO. It would be more useful to do it where you cut your holes just to help with bracing. What made you get galvanized pipes? Why not wood dowels? What kind of wood did you use this time? When you say your port is facing forward, do you mean towards the trunk or towards driver seat?
 
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ferguson621

Senior VIP Member
Feb 3, 2015
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Olathe, ks
Yeah I know it was overkill, this is the design I paid for.....fuccking huge waste of 10 days and $40....and i used galvanized pipe because I wanted it to look good, and i usually skimp on bracing, so I figured this time around I'd make sure I did it the right way, and because that's what I see people use in larger builds, so i went with that.....and dowel rods are to damn expensive....and pointless in my opinion. And I used sanded plywood because its lighter than mdf. Birch is to rich for my blood, and again I see no point in using wood that damn expensive lol....pointless, anyways....and as for the aeros, I tried flaring some 8" pvc I got for free and I was unsuccessful lmao....and ive seen those big ass ports that are adjustable.

But wouldn't i need atleast two or three of them? Thats to much for ports lol as far as money goes.

My port is 20 inches wide, 5 inches tall, and 20 inches deep

I didnt even waste my time on building that one, I made one that comes up 23 inches in the front and the port is facing towards the front seats.....but what I didn't realize is when i dropped them in the box the negative came unhooked from one of the coils and i played it for a couple minutes like that, so now I have to order a new recone kit for one of them. Because it rattles now when I play it.


I'm so fuccking pissed off, finally after 3 years of owning these and going through vehicles and then something so stupid happens and the coil fries....just my luck
 

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blazian87

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Mar 12, 2007
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Yeah I know it was overkill, this is the design I paid for.....fuccking huge waste of 10 days and $40....and i used galvanized pipe because I wanted it to look good, and i usually skimp on bracing, so I figured this time around I'd make sure I did it the right way, and because that's what I see people use in larger builds, so i went with that.....and dowel rods are to damn expensive....and pointless in my opinion. And I used sanded plywood because its lighter than mdf. Birch is to rich for my blood, and again I see no point in using wood that damn expensive lol....pointless, anyways....and as for the aeros, I tried flaring some 8" pvc I got for free and I was unsuccessful lmao....and ive seen those big ass ports that are adjustable.

But wouldn't i need atleast two or three of them? Thats to much for ports lol as far as money goes.

My port is 20 inches wide, 5 inches tall, and 20 inches deep

I didnt even waste my time on building that one, I made one that comes up 23 inches in the front and the port is facing towards the front seats.....but what I didn't realize is when i dropped them in the box the negative came unhooked from one of the coils and i played it for a couple minutes like that, so now I have to order a new recone kit for one of them. Because it rattles now when I play it.


I'm so fuccking pissed off, finally after 3 years of owning these and going through vehicles and then something so stupid happens and the coil fries....just my luck
Dang, I'm sorry to hear that.. I see your frustration. I don't understand why you didn't atleast try building the box that designer made for you. A slight variation changes everything. What type of music do you mostly listen to? That will determine what tuning best suits you. You might end up building 10 different boxes until you're satisfied. That's why I recommended aeros. It's worth the coin. You can also reuse them for future projects too.

Nothing wrong with galvanized pipes but how much did you spend on them? Home depot sells wood dowels for $2 - $4. I don't know how much cheaper you can get than that.

Strengthness of wood does make a difference and it only costs just a bit more but I understand. Another solution is using fiberglass resin on the inside of your box, which can make your box really strong and less prone to flexing. There was a member here that used cheap particle board for a wall build and resin'ed the fuckk out of it and it ended up being very successful.
 
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ferguson621

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Feb 3, 2015
427
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Olathe, ks
Well originally in my head it played out as this is going to be the one I make look nice like you see in the videos of larger builds so that's why i went with the pipe, for a 60" piece and the ends it was $60.....but i can only go 15" tall in the back and 35" wide so they'll be reusable for bracing.......does the flare on the end really make that noticeable of a difference to the ear?

I've never heard aeros in person which is why I ask....guess I could look it up lol....can you buy just the flared piece?

I've fiber glassed the inside of a previous box, thats probably what I should do....

Because the only difference was my port is facing towards the back and in the design its facing up, and i assumed tuning lower would mean that they wouldn't be as loud?
 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
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South Coast Metro, CA
you might want to build stuff exactly the way the designer cooked up with vs saying fk it and doing your own stuff like you always do. Then you'd have a legit reason to demand your money back if its not satisfactory
 
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shredder2

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Nov 19, 2017
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this is the design I paid for.....fuccking huge waste of 10 days and $40.
expensive....and pointless in my opinion.
expensive lol....pointless, anyways....and as for the aeros, I tried flaring some 8" pvc I got for free and I was unsuccessful lmao....and ive seen those big ass ports that are adjustable.

Thats to much for ports lol as far as money goes.

I didnt even waste my time on building that one,

I'm so fuccking pissed off,
You might want to build that design... a designer might have insight into your vehicle loading/cabin gain etc... and thru modeling he will see how it reacts under different conditions. Meh... you shittin' all over Ez DB's without actually trying the design imo... cheaping out as usual.
Really?
 
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ferguson621

Senior VIP Member
Feb 3, 2015
427
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Olathe, ks
That thought crossed my mind after I sat and thought about it shredder.....

So my reason for not trying it was....dd "recommends" 5 cubes per sub to be optimal.....so 10 cubes, the shittty box i slapped together was 7 cubes after port and sub displacement. And it was tuned to 40hz.


The design was 7 cubes at 34hz.....so i felt that it would have been a waste of time and effort to build the same design except double baffled all the way around. So i made it a little bigger to achieve the 10 cubes after displacement.....and in doing that I dropped one of them in and the negative came unhooked on the coil and now it rattles....so i have to order a new recone tomorrow
 
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Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
18,010
585
South Coast Metro, CA
That thought crossed my mind after I sat and thought about it shredder.....

So my reason for not trying it was....dd "recommends" 5 cubes per sub to be optimal.....so 10 cubes, the shittty box i slapped together was 7 cubes after port and sub displacement. And it was tuned to 40hz.


The design was 7 cubes at 34hz.....so i felt that it would have been a waste of time and effort to build the same design except double baffled all the way around. So i made it a little bigger to achieve the 10 cubes after displacement.....and in doing that I dropped one of them in and the negative came unhooked on the coil and now it rattles....so i have to order a new recone tomorrow
he probably accounted for the amount of power you will have to them... Do his design. Its usually on point dude. If you just went by the recommended airspace from manufacturers, everyone would be loud by now.
 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
18,010
585
South Coast Metro, CA
I didnt even waste my time on building that one, I made one that comes up 23 inches in the front and the port is facing towards the front seats.....but what I didn't realize is when i dropped them in the box the negative came unhooked from one of the coils and i played it for a couple minutes like that, so now I have to order a new recone kit for one of them. Because it rattles now when I play it.


I'm so fuccking pissed off, finally after 3 years of owning these and going through vehicles and then something so stupid happens and the coil fries....just my luck
Yo i just caught something.... You have the port firing at the front seats thats why you have zero output. Port always needs to be as close to the rear hatch as possible either up firing or to the rear. NEVER front and Yes it makes THAT BIG OF A DIFFERENCE. Front firing on a non walled and sealed off vehicle = cancellation hell. literally negative bass.

Turn the current box around if you can see if you can salvage this shit for free.
 

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