two dd 9500 15's or one dd redline 800 18"?

Perfect! Saves me a little money and frustration on making pods for them lol. Yes I've thought of going aero, definitely wouldn't be opposed.
Yeah you would really benefit from an aeroport design. Not only are they easy to design, but they can potentially make your setup louder for the given space. The best part is that you can easily adjust the tune without having to redesign the whole box. It works really well with subs up, port rear too. I do it the old fashion way without the fancy box calculators.. To get started all you do is use your max dimensions and design a simple sealed box. Make sure to use double baffle on your next build on your top layer cuz your current box looks a bit flimsy with those 2 15's laying on top. After you figure out your imaginary sealed box, then just account for sub displacement, bracing, and port..
 
Nevermind shredder was able to provide me with plenty of references

Flame all you want lol, I was in a major hurry to hear them so I just slapped the box together in a few hours.....the next one I'll actually take my time and not rush anything since I'm paying for a design. I'm thinking about going with one horn tweeter and one 6.5 per door, or three super tweeters and a 6.5 per door.....ive got a set of dd cc3's I picked up for $40 still wrapped in the plastic. Ive never heard horn tweeters, would one horn be louder than three tweeters?

I'm curious... How did that quick box you knocked out do?
 
I'm curious... How did that quick box you knocked out do?
Lol im wondering if you ask that out of curiosity? Lmao.....eh it's.....decent, I absolutely dislike 40hz though lmao, it does great at 50hz, well atleast it seems like it. Then again I havent had the opportunity to listen to any real stereos. Considering I have no friends lol. And I don't go to any comps either.

And yeah it definitely needs a second baffle no doubt lol, pretty sure im getting a shiit ton of vibration from only having the single baffle. They sound hollowed in a sense. Probably because i used plywood instead of mdf with shiit for bracing. Maybe thats why im expecting more from them....

Ok so basically 7 cu ft sealed, how many aeros and what size/length?

Ok shredder I guess I could use your assistance if you didn't mind lol?

Max dimensions are 35 wide x 16 tall x 40 long
 
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Lol im wondering if you ask that out of curiosity? Lmao.....eh it's.....decent, I absolutely dislike 40hz though lmao, it does great at 50hz, well atleast it seems like it. Then again I havent had the opportunity to listen to any real stereos. Considering I have no friends lol. And I don't go to any comps either.

And yeah it definitely needs a second baffle no doubt lol, pretty sure im getting a shiit ton of vibration from only having the single baffle. They sound hollowed in a sense. Probably because i used plywood instead of mdf with shiit for bracing. Maybe thats why im expecting more from them....

Ok so basically 7 cu ft sealed, how many aeros and what size/length?

Ok shredder I guess I could use your assistance if you didn't mind lol?

Max dimensions are 35 wide x 16 tall x 40 long
I thought you were after a 155... Doing that on a md8k might require a higher "burp" tuning imo with your cone. Seriously... Knowing your cabin frequency and testing should get you there. But tuning lowish (35-38) with only an 8k amp and 2 9500 15s?
I'd think you'd stand a chance if wiring into the dirt was an option with a badass 8k like an Xs8k on strong electrical... & the enclosure would have to be on point as well.
What exactly are you after?.. 155 or 155 at 35hz?
You can conceivably do either, but one will cost a bit more than the other goal imo.
 
Lol well yeah....i said 155 because my head is in the clouds, I assumed that with it being a hatch, with a small cabin that it would be easily achievable with two 9515's.... and ive got roughly 6k after rise, ive seen videos of single subs doing 150 on less than 6k....i guess that's on burps.....what does it take to atleast do 150 on music? I sound like a god damnn idiot lol

What is considered "strong" electrical?

What would you classify my electrical as?
250 ho alternator
Two runs 2/0 welding to back
Two runs ground from amp
4/0 power from amp to batt
Optima red top (wasn't my choice, and lack of funds to get xs or kinetik etc at the moment)
Batcap 4000.....are these good? Picked it up for $50 brand new

I need to go try and get it metered, the three times I've called in the past couple years the local shop always tells me they can't meter brazillians because it fuccks the mic up or some bullshiit



How does this look shredder?
 

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I'd get with a designer like I stated and be specific regarding your goals/current equipment, 6K don't magically appear just because you've got a Md8k. A local guy has a Cmax lithium bank with all the extras on the same amp I think and clamped under 5K at the last event around here iirc (155+ on 6 12's?). And yes... 150 is achievable on music on lower power. I'm somewhere around 150 with a single 18, the car is holding it back but it's musical and personally I want my car to last a bit.. it does around 150 and I'm good. Chasing that meter can be expensive and frustrating in my experience, why not settle for a loud daily and with testing you can see gains over time?
Tuning 38 ain't a bad place to start for numbers/daily if you don't play low often, most like under 35... just throwing that out there. I'd maybe go with 2 8" aeros on your power, tune lower and raise tuning to meter once you do some testing. I think 100in2 of aeroport ought to be enough offhand but better to model it up.
 
Ok so your doing 150 on music with one 18".....so its possible with my current setup? What are you running to be able to achieve that? And your right i should get with a designer
 
Ok so your doing 150 on music with one 18".....so its possible with my current setup? What are you running to be able to achieve that? And your right i should get with a designer
22207



Overlook the single grounds at the amp please... dual inputs are on the way
I suppose I drew some attention...
22212
 
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Nice! Looks neat and simple, see that's why I was wondering if i should have went with the dd redline 800.....cause its the 9500 motor with 4" coils....i know id have slightly less cone area, but the box would've been half the size needed for these two 9500's
 
So I wasted $40 and 10 days of waiting on a design that I already came up with....fuckiing retarded....never again. Anyways I built another box and ended up with 13 cubes after port displacement...167 sq inches of port, 34hz ....and they're not even close to as loud as when they were in the shiitty box I just slapped together....this one is double baffled top and bottom with 1 1/4 galvanized pipe in two spots for bracing, and the port is 5 inches wide and as wide as the box, and its facing forward.
 
So I wasted $40 and 10 days of waiting on a design that I already came up with....fuckiing retarded....never again. Anyways I built another box and ended up with 13 cubes after port displacement...167 sq inches of port, 34hz ....and they're not even close to as loud as when they were in the shiitty box I just slapped together....this one is double baffled top and bottom with 1 1/4 galvanized pipe in two spots for bracing, and the port is 5 inches wide and as wide as the box, and its facing forward.
Wait a min.. Are you only using one 5" wide aeroport? That's not big enough. Go with two 8" flared.

I would recommend these. It adds to the cost of the box but it's worth it. They have adjustable pieces that connect so you can change your tuning any time. Tuning will depend on music choice. Maybe you'd like a 37hz but change it up and try for yourself. You can always go for a higher tune when you compete and change it back for daily.

Also, double baffling the bottom was a bit overdoing it and a waste of internal space IMO. It would be more useful to do it where you cut your holes just to help with bracing. What made you get galvanized pipes? Why not wood dowels? What kind of wood did you use this time? When you say your port is facing forward, do you mean towards the trunk or towards driver seat?
 
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Yeah I know it was overkill, this is the design I paid for.....fuccking huge waste of 10 days and $40....and i used galvanized pipe because I wanted it to look good, and i usually skimp on bracing, so I figured this time around I'd make sure I did it the right way, and because that's what I see people use in larger builds, so i went with that.....and dowel rods are to damn expensive....and pointless in my opinion. And I used sanded plywood because its lighter than mdf. Birch is to rich for my blood, and again I see no point in using wood that damn expensive lol....pointless, anyways....and as for the aeros, I tried flaring some 8" pvc I got for free and I was unsuccessful lmao....and ive seen those big ass ports that are adjustable.

But wouldn't i need atleast two or three of them? Thats to much for ports lol as far as money goes.

My port is 20 inches wide, 5 inches tall, and 20 inches deep

I didnt even waste my time on building that one, I made one that comes up 23 inches in the front and the port is facing towards the front seats.....but what I didn't realize is when i dropped them in the box the negative came unhooked from one of the coils and i played it for a couple minutes like that, so now I have to order a new recone kit for one of them. Because it rattles now when I play it.


I'm so fuccking pissed off, finally after 3 years of owning these and going through vehicles and then something so stupid happens and the coil fries....just my luck
 

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Yeah I know it was overkill, this is the design I paid for.....fuccking huge waste of 10 days and $40....and i used galvanized pipe because I wanted it to look good, and i usually skimp on bracing, so I figured this time around I'd make sure I did it the right way, and because that's what I see people use in larger builds, so i went with that.....and dowel rods are to damn expensive....and pointless in my opinion. And I used sanded plywood because its lighter than mdf. Birch is to rich for my blood, and again I see no point in using wood that damn expensive lol....pointless, anyways....and as for the aeros, I tried flaring some 8" pvc I got for free and I was unsuccessful lmao....and ive seen those big ass ports that are adjustable.

But wouldn't i need atleast two or three of them? Thats to much for ports lol as far as money goes.

My port is 20 inches wide, 5 inches tall, and 20 inches deep

I didnt even waste my time on building that one, I made one that comes up 23 inches in the front and the port is facing towards the front seats.....but what I didn't realize is when i dropped them in the box the negative came unhooked from one of the coils and i played it for a couple minutes like that, so now I have to order a new recone kit for one of them. Because it rattles now when I play it.


I'm so fuccking pissed off, finally after 3 years of owning these and going through vehicles and then something so stupid happens and the coil fries....just my luck
Dang, I'm sorry to hear that.. I see your frustration. I don't understand why you didn't atleast try building the box that designer made for you. A slight variation changes everything. What type of music do you mostly listen to? That will determine what tuning best suits you. You might end up building 10 different boxes until you're satisfied. That's why I recommended aeros. It's worth the coin. You can also reuse them for future projects too.

Nothing wrong with galvanized pipes but how much did you spend on them? Home depot sells wood dowels for $2 - $4. I don't know how much cheaper you can get than that.

Strengthness of wood does make a difference and it only costs just a bit more but I understand. Another solution is using fiberglass resin on the inside of your box, which can make your box really strong and less prone to flexing. There was a member here that used cheap particle board for a wall build and resin'ed the fuckk out of it and it ended up being very successful.
 
Well originally in my head it played out as this is going to be the one I make look nice like you see in the videos of larger builds so that's why i went with the pipe, for a 60" piece and the ends it was $60.....but i can only go 15" tall in the back and 35" wide so they'll be reusable for bracing.......does the flare on the end really make that noticeable of a difference to the ear?

I've never heard aeros in person which is why I ask....guess I could look it up lol....can you buy just the flared piece?

I've fiber glassed the inside of a previous box, thats probably what I should do....

Because the only difference was my port is facing towards the back and in the design its facing up, and i assumed tuning lower would mean that they wouldn't be as loud?
 
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