Two 12s vs. a 15 & Two 10s

[spentfromnz 10+ year member]

On the subject of SQ, are Earthquake's comps any good? I can get a wicked deal on some VTEK MC6s for $60. But no way to hear them first. http://www.earthquakesound.com/vtek_coaxials.htm

VTEK speakers in my VTEC, that would be rather ironic. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[sexiewasd 10+ year member]

I'm just going to recommend what I always do in these type of threads. Get a Type R, port it, listen to it. If your not satisfied then maybe you will be ready to step up your game and spend some money, (or a hell of a lot of time researching horns) if not then pick a new hobby.

Car Audio isn't cheap!

 

[spentfromnz 10+ year member]

A type R would definitely be do-able. I should get the 4+4 and run it at 2ohm on a 400 mono? with a 300 4ch for the comps and rears?

 

[Trey803 5,000+ posts]

you don't need to amp the rears

 

[DePratt 10+ year member]

Why? Because it could have amazing clarity, you never know. There are 4-way mid speakers, why not a 4 way sub.

Why do u insist claiming knowledge of car audio? u want a full range sub ("4way")

go for it. but why in the heIl would u think a sub cound play the roll of a tweeter??

fool

Not f'n loud to you of course being a car audio enthusiest. But f'n loud to the average person, in comparison to what a stock car stereo would sound like.

loud is loud. and a stock car stereo? you mean the kind with no sub at all? i would hope u could get louder!

But ok why 400, well I can't see myself running the system much at obnoxiously intense levels of RMS. So I figure why spring for all that extra amp wattage then run the thing at 10% gain 90% of the time. Dumb move when I can just get a cheaper compact amp and run it balls to the wall most of the time I'm in the car. Plus I don't really want to replace the battery and alternator.

sure! cheaper compact amp. the kind that light on fire! or you could buy a high quality amp with low RMS, since you want SQ

How would a Kicker L5 10"do on SQ duty?

no..

This has got to be a troll... you just can't say this many totally backwards things in such a short time without trying to.

Yes

Trey thanks for posting up the images of the kenwoods. Sure there are much better subs out there, but is a good quality sub really so much better that it can beat 3 midclass subs of the same size. I can get the Kenwoods at $40 each here and they handle a decent load and look much better visually than any budget sub I have seen, but yeah nothing is set in stone at this point.

you expect a $40 sub to be good in anyway. 1 pile of crap is crap. 3 piles of crap, is still crap

 

[spentfromnz 10+ year member]

Wow Pratt is about right, really suits you as a name.

I was not talking about putting a 4 way bass in a car, think outside the box for once in your life. None of the cones would be on tweeter duty, as I said, the xover would put the upper limit at like 500hz. As to why 4 way bass may be an advantage I was thinking separation of bass sources within a recorded piece of music. Bass sources being bass drum, bass guitar, synth bass, etc which are all likely to have their own peak zone within the band of frequencies collectively known as bass. For example bass guitar is likely to produce a lot more higher frequecies than a bass drum, and below that synth bass is able to produce the lowest freqencies.

By cheap compact amp I mean something like the Pioneer 7400M, which I am now thinking of buying.

A note on the prices, they are converted from $NZ into $USD, and incase you hadn't noticed the US dollar is kicking butt at the moment. On top of that they are trade prices. The Kenwoods go for US$99 RRP. Which Is not much less than what an Alpine R-type sells for.

IDQ V3 in comparison are $250, and Fi Qs are about the same.

A $250 sub and $200 postage would cost me NZ$950 which is about what I'm planning on spending on my whole system. By whole system I mean amp, sub, comps, comp amp, cables, fittings and dynamat. I already have the head unit and a shit load of mdf.

 

[spentfromnz 10+ year member]

Oh yeah and I wasn't claiming knowledge, I was trying to expand my knowledge by asking people for their opinions. Fraid to say I value the opinions of a very important person known as Sexywasd, and Trey the war eagle, over the opinion of a "learning n00b" such as yourself.

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

please don't come back //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[DBBOOM 10+ year member]

i agree with post #5.

 

[spentfromnz 10+ year member]

ffs I'm not trolling. True some people flammed this thread, but it was not welcomed, in fact they can bite me for all I care, because it is a waste of my time as well as theirs. However a couple of people have actually made the effort to post some helpful info, and for that I am thankful.

 

[BLD 25 10+ year member]

I would say definitely do just one sub with the power that you are looking into, and maybe it would be a good idea to take a little time and read on here some more before making a decision. Good luck!

 

[spentfromnz 10+ year member]

Yep will do, pretty certain I'm going with the 10" R Type. I brought an amp yesterday, the Pioneer 7400M. Cost me US$90 from TradeMe (think eBay) and it's in brand new condition.

Still hunting for a quality 2ch to power the front stage.

For the comps I was thinking Earthquake VTEK MC5/MC6, but the dealer is sold out atm. Can get some Rockford Fosgate P162S for $90, was just about to look for some reviews on em or any mention on these forums. They have four 3/4" alu tweeters, which could be a good thing staging wise.

 

[BLD 25 10+ year member]

I haven't heard the earthquakes or rockfords personally, but i have never heard either of those mentioned at all with SQ either. Like I said before, read alot here, use the search function, and prepare to learn alot. Good luck!

 

[spentfromnz 10+ year member]

Nah I don't think either would be considered SQ, I'm now thinking pioneer prs or infinity perfect, but I will start a thread in the speakers section.

 

[jvk5o1 10+ year member]

if you mix up the subs the wave cancelation would be the same even though their 2 diff sizes. the pressure would not rise enough to notice if any.(w/o the perfect xover setup)

i would go with 2 12s, ya get the best of both worlds but it has 2 b tuned correct to get punchy bass when needed, and that regurgitating feeling in ur chest when it hit that perfect note that make ya want to leave the car.

ps bump up the wattage to 800-1000w per sub