tweeters blowing? need some advice please!

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

yea i could do that. i mean the stereo puts out 50watts x 4. then run the front 5x7's off 2 channels of the amp and the tweeters on the other 2 channels of the amp. i could give it a try.
i was reading on a site- https://geoffthegreygeek.com/calculator-speakers-in-parallel/

theres a ohms calculator down the page a little. i put the ohms of the 2 speakers on each channel, the 5x7 being 4 ohms & the tweeter being 8 ohms & it said together it makes 2.7 ohms. and that one speaker gets more power than the other. it says (If the speakers wired in parallel each have a different impedance, the lower impedance speakers will draw more than the higher impedance speakers.)

so the 4 ohm speaker (the 5x7) is getting 67% of power & the 8 ohm speaker (the tweeter) is getting 33% of the power.

so thats crazy! i mean if the tweeter was getting most the power i could maybe understand. but the tweets are only getting 33%??? at 2.7 ohms the amp would put out about 77 watts a channel. because its 90 watts @ 2 0hms & 70 watts @ 4 ohms. so i figure 2.7 ohms would be about 77 watts. plus i only have the gains on the amp at half way!!

we've been telling you this whole thread, its not overpowering, you are clipping the fk out of the signal. Dirty signal causes uncessary heat thats what blows your gear. half way gain doesnt mean you are at half power, it could mean you are Well over clipping trying to overdrive your amp past 77 watts depending on your head unit's pre-out signal. Dirty power blows gear. Clean power does not(until a certain point but thats 3x more than you have on hand atm). Right now yours is extremely dirty.

 

[Ckblood05]

we've been telling you this whole thread, its not overpowering, you are clipping the fk out of the signal. Dirty signal causes uncessary heat thats what blows your gear. half way gain doesnt mean you are at half power, it could mean you are Well over clipping trying to overdrive your amp past 77 watts depending on your head unit's pre-out signal. Dirty power blows gear. Clean power does not(until a certain point but thats 3x more than you have on hand atm). Right now yours is extremely dirty.

right on, i got ya. yea my rca pre-outs are 4volts. yea sometimes when i touch the tweeter its warm. i don't know why its so dirty? i mean jl audio is one of the best companies there is!

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

right on, i got ya. yea my rca pre-outs are 4volts. yea sometimes when i touch the tweeter its warm. i don't know why its so dirty? i mean jl audio is one of the best companies there is!

not really lol when it comes to mids, tweeters and amps, there's other companies that smash JL out of the park by far. Its dirty because of the user. Tweeters should never be warm unless they are directly in the sun which they should not be... Because of the impedance difference, you pretty much set the gain clean for the coaxials but dirty for the tweeters hence you dont wire sh*t in parallel like a ghetto chop shop would. There's proper ways to do a proper sound quality/loud install. Most brick and mortar shops that are not up to date with the times are doing sh*t like garbage as well. The audio standard for today is extremely high. Techniques are much more advanced.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

yea the amp never shuts off or makes any noises. yea theres a car stereo one where i bought most of my equiptment. i might stop by & see what they have to say. thanks! yea the volume goes to 40 but the highest i go is between 30-33.

What for? You got the best help here....that shops' main goal is to make $$, not fixing mistakes, tuning, etc.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

@Jeffdachef, you gotta show him the graph differences from the oscilliscope, between square waves, and round waves/curves. And their meaning.

 

[Ckblood05]

not really lol when it comes to mids, tweeters and amps, there's other companies that smash JL out of the park by far. Its dirty because of the user. Tweeters should never be warm unless they are directly in the sun which they should not be... Because of the impedance difference, you pretty much set the gain clean for the coaxials but dirty for the tweeters hence you dont wire sh*t in parallel like a ghetto chop shop would. There's proper ways to do a proper sound quality/loud install. Most brick and mortar shops that are not up to date with the times are doing sh*t like garbage as well. The audio standard for today is extremely high. Techniques are much more advanced.

yea i know jl has awsome subs & ok amps. im just using jl audio high;s & mids because the sub package i got has jl sub's & amp. i like to keep everything matching. i used to be big in the car audio scene back in the late 90's and early 2000's. i used to be in bass competition's. i never used tweeters really, just mid range speakers like 5x7, 6 1/2 etc....yea im all about sound quality not just being loud! i hate when people turn the bass way up and its bumpin' but distorted!! i always hook up my own music, build my own boxes usually. just been out of it for a while plus not real sure about the tweets and mids. ok, well i think i maid up my mind, im going to order the 1" tweets that are more powerful and 4 ohms. plus has the Inline, outboard, 12 dB / octave, high-pass filters.

 

[Ckblood05]

What for? You got the best help here....that shops' main goal is to make $$, not fixing mistakes, tuning, etc.

yea true. i mean they used to be my main go to shop, but all the guy's that worked there are gone.

 

[Ckblood05]

[quote name='Boomin_tahoe']@Jeffdachef, you gotta show him the graph differences from the oscilliscope, between square waves, and round waves/curves. And their meaning.[/QUOTE]

yea that would be cool to see. im don't know a whole lot on all this high's & mids stuff. my main focus was bass. but now im just looking for an all around good sounding setup!

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

yea i know jl has awsome subs & ok amps. im just using jl audio high;s & mids because the sub package i got has jl sub's & amp. i like to keep everything matching. i used to be big in the car audio scene back in the late 90's and early 2000's. i used to be in bass competition's. i never used tweeters really, just mid range speakers like 5x7, 6 1/2 etc....yea im all about sound quality not just being loud! i hate when people turn the bass way up and its bumpin' but distorted!! i always hook up my own music, build my own boxes usually. just been out of it for a while plus not real sure about the tweets and mids. ok, well i think i maid up my mind, im going to order the 1" tweets that are more powerful and 4 ohms. plus has the Inline, outboard, 12 dB / octave, high-pass filters.

so the New Meta for car audio nowadays is No rear speakers at all. All your power is focused to the front stage. Anything in the rear kills any signs of sound quality.

You need an active capable head unit which means you can assign crossover points for both mids and tweeters meaning you dont need any inline crossovers ever. Why? Because the crossover points of those passive crossovers dont neccessarily work with your vehicle acoustics. While having an active capable head unit, you can have a perfect match and harmony between mids and tweeter that works best with your vehicle. Not only that, you can time align the mid and tweeter individually what this means is, since the left side is closer to you, it'll always hit your ear first which destroys soundstage. Time alignment delays the left side and now both right and left sound waves hit your ears at the same time. This creates a virtual live studio concert on your dash. Also you can put a lot more power to your mid and tweet. Done right, you not only sound amazing, you can be heard several football fields away. You also dont just throw mids in a door and call it a day, you need to use sheet metal and seal off the gaps in the doors and turn the door into a real speaker enclosure. Deadening and creating a baffle to redirect sound into the cabin without having anything stuck in the plastic door panel section is a must as well.

None of this involves any kind of coaxials, 2 farad caps or any JL mids and highs. The only thing thats actually okay from JL is the ZR800 and thats it.

Its a lot to take in but i feel you need a real update on how a real sound system should be setup in the modern age.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

yea that would be cool to see. im don't know a whole lot on all this high's & mids stuff. my main focus was bass. but now im just looking for an all around good sounding setup!

Even though he's saying subs, it goes the same for mids and tweeters too. I'd recommend you fully watch and educate yourself on this matter. The knowledge will save you hundreds if not thousands.

 

[Ckblood05]

so the New Meta for car audio nowadays is No rear speakers at all. All your power is focused to the front stage. Anything in the rear kills any signs of sound quality.
You need an active capable head unit which means you can assign crossover points for both mids and tweeters meaning you dont need any inline crossovers ever. Why? Because the crossover points of those passive crossovers dont neccessarily work with your vehicle acoustics. While having an active capable head unit, you can have a perfect match and harmony between mids and tweeter that works best with your vehicle. Not only that, you can time align the mid and tweeter individually what this means is, since the left side is closer to you, it'll always hit your ear first which destroys soundstage. Time alignment delays the left side and now both right and left sound waves hit your ears at the same time. This creates a virtual live studio concert on your dash. Also you can put a lot more power to your mid and tweet. Done right, you not only sound amazing, you can be heard several football fields away. You also dont just throw mids in a door and call it a day, you need to use sheet metal and seal off the gaps in the doors and turn the door into a real speaker enclosure. Deadening and creating a baffle to redirect sound into the cabin without having anything stuck in the plastic door panel section is a must as well.

None of this involves any kind of coaxials, 2 farad caps or any JL mids and highs. The only thing thats actually okay from JL is the ZR800 and thats it.

Its a lot to take in but i feel you need a real update on how a real sound system should be setup in the modern age.

yea i noticed on my pioneer head unit in settings theres a Sonic Center Control where you can fade to the right & left. i'm sure thats to help do what you are saying. i just keep it in the middle @ 0. i have used jl sub's from back in the day w6's to the w7's. i had 2-13.5" jl w7's but only hooked one up to a us amps 2000 & it was insane!!!! jl subs are loud and clean. now i know there not the best in the world, but one of my favorites!!! yea its a lot of good info you're giving me. i appreciate it!! yea i just put the 5x7's in the front doors didn't put no sound deadning or cover any holes. i might go back & remove the door panels & do that.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

yea i noticed on my pioneer head unit in settings theres a Sonic Center Control where you can fade to the right & left. i'm sure thats to help do what you are saying. i just keep it in the middle @ 0. i have used jl sub's from back in the day w6's to the w7's. i had 2-13.5" jl w7's but only hooked one up to a us amps 2000 & it was insane!!!! jl subs are loud and clean. now i know there not the best in the world, but one of my favorites!!! yea its a lot of good info you're giving me. i appreciate it!! yea i just put the 5x7's in the front doors didn't put no sound deadning or cover any holes. i might go back & remove the door panels & do that.

No it doesnt, it just adjusts the loudness for left or right its just a basic balance and fader which not what i'm talking about, not even close. It does not have time alignment or anything close to the sort. Its actually a super basic bare bones head unit, you'll see massive improvements if you update that head unit. 3 pairs of 2 volt preouts is a very weak signal, only 8 bands of EQ which is below standard which is 13, no active mode or anything.

 

[Ckblood05]

Even though he's saying subs, it goes the same for mids and tweeters too. I'd recommend you fully watch and educate yourself on this matter. The knowledge will save you hundreds if not thousands.

pretty interesting!!! yea its a lot to take in, but i'm getting it. good stuff!!!! thanks man!!!

 

[Ckblood05]

No it doesnt, it just adjusts the loudness for left or right its just a basic balance and fader which not what i'm talking about, not even close. It does not have time alignment or anything close to the sort. Its actually a super basic bare bones head unit, you'll see massive improvements if you update that head unit. 3 pairs of 2 volt preouts is a very weak signal, only 8 bands of EQ which is below standard which is 13, no active mode or anything.

ok ok wasn't sure. i bought that radio like 4-5 years ago for like $350.00. it actually has 3 Sets of Hi-Volt RCA Preouts (4V) for System Expansion. yea i'm sure a newer model would have more modern settings. radios are like computers and cell phones, every 6 months a newer, better model comes out. i always been a pioneer supporter for my head units. back in the day i had the pioneer AVIC-N1 - | Pioneer Electronics USA

notice the price.....$2,200.00!!! now i didn't pay that i paid like $1500.00. but i owned the n1 & n2 models.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

ok ok wasn't sure. i bought that radio like 4-5 years ago for like $350.00. it actually has 3 Sets of Hi-Volt RCA Preouts (4V) for System Expansion. yea i'm sure a newer model would have more modern settings. radios are like computers and cell phones, every 6 months a newer, better model comes out. i always been a pioneer supporter for my head units. back in the day i had the pioneer AVIC-N1 - | Pioneer Electronics USAnotice the price.....$2,200.00!!! now i didn't pay that i paid like $1500.00. but i owned the n1 & n2 models.

Yours is 2 volt not 4v. Sorry to burst that bubble lol. Your gains would not need to be at half if it was 4 volt

Other than fancy toy features irrelevant to audio, the audio tuning on that pioneer n1 is garbage. a cheapo 180 dollar pioneer nowadays will spank that outright in the sound department. The 500 dollar navi units nowadays will spank that in both speed, usability and audio performance but surprisingly the cheaper non navi head units are better for sound quality than the NEX flagship line purely due to the NEX not being active capable.

Sorry i'm an extreme head unit nerd, its all about the audio performance specs for me down to the type of DAC used, internal parts etc..