tweeters blowing? need some advice please!

Ckblood05

Junior Member
Ok, so im running 4 jl audio 5x7's and 2 jl audio .5" tweeters. they are hooked up to a jl audio 360/4 amp. i got the rear 5x7's each on a channel for the rear. and the front channels each have a 5x7 and a .5" tweeter. well over the past few years i blew 3-4 of the .5" tweeters. sometimes one at a time, sometimes both. i got the amp on high pass filter, gain half way & the tweets have a crossover inline to help block low frequincies. here is the link to the speakers & amp-

TR570-CXi - Car Audio - TR - Coaxial Speakers - JL Audio

TR050-CT - Car Audio - TR - JL Audio

JX360/4 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - JX - JL Audio

the 5x7's are 4ohms and the tweeters are 8ohms. im not sure what that brings the total ohm load to? but the amp is 2ohm stable. i don't have anything bridged, just both + and - wires together in each channel. if the amp is running them at 4ohms it says 70 watts a channel. if its 2ohms then 90 watts a channel. plus i keep the bass down on the head unit. surely there not getting over powered? i mean the tweeters are 50watts Continuous Power Handling (RMS) & 125 watts peak. the 5x7's are 50 watts rms & 225 watts peak. any ideas or suggestions is appreciated!!!! thank you!!!

plus i was thinking, since the .5" tweeters i've been using & blowing are discontinued, but still available some places. the newer jl audio series is out and i can get .75" tweeters for $50.00 and 1" tweeters for $60.00. while the discontinued .5" tweeters are between $70-$100!!! i mean it only makes sense......i can get a bigger tweeter that handles more power for quite a bit less!!!

the only thing is the tweeters & 5x7's i'm running now are the same series, the tr series. but it only makes sense to get a bigger, more powerful tweeter for less money.

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
5,000+ posts
You are blowing them because you are feeding them clipped dirty power from your amp. Higher ohm loads means more resistance meaning the amp can only output X amount of watts clean but if you force it to go over that, then that means its outputting a dirty distorted signal. You would have been better off with 4 ohm tweeters along with having a dedicated powerful 2 channel for the mids and a dedicated 2 channel for the tweeter rather than wiring tweeters and mids in parallel like that. Thats usually how ghetto shops do it.

For any resemblance of audio quality, you need independent control of mids and tweeters or else your blending is below mediocre at best.

Best bet would be to have an active head unit and run things active rather than relying on a sh*tty inline capacitor/crossover. I have 150 rms going to my 80 rms tweeter. Your tweeter's reliability should not be an issue when setup properly.

 

hispls

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the tweeters are 8ohms.
Why? Are the crossovers designed for them? The way crossovers work is by making impedance increase with frequency so for example if your crossover is designed to cross at 2000hz (3dB down = half power) the crossover will show 4 ohms at 2000hz which will take half the power from a 4 ohm speaker. Now the same crossover circuit 4 ohms impedance vs an 8 ohm speaker and it's only blocking 1/3 of the power.

Anyway, if you're not using the crossover designed for that tweeter that's probably your problem.

 

Ckblood05

Junior Member
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
the crossover came with the tweeters. there inline right in the speaker wire. this is what it says about it on the website- Inline 6 dB / octave high-pass filters with tweeter protectors are included with this kit. The TR050-CT is designed to operate above 4 kHz with a minimum high-pass slope of 6 dB / octave.

 

Ckblood05

Junior Member
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  • #5
You are blowing them because you are feeding them clipped dirty power from your amp. Higher ohm loads means more resistance meaning the amp can only output X amount of watts clean but if you force it to go over that, then that means its outputting a dirty distorted signal. You would have been better off with 4 ohm tweeters along with having a dedicated powerful 2 channel for the mids and a dedicated 2 channel for the tweeter rather than wiring tweeters and mids in parallel like that. Thats usually how ghetto shops do it.
For any resemblance of audio quality, you need independent control of mids and tweeters or else your blending is below mediocre at best.

Best bet would be to have an active head unit and run things active rather than relying on a sh*tty inline capacitor/crossover. I have 150 rms going to my 80 rms tweeter. Your tweeter's reliability should not be an issue when setup properly.
ok so running a 8 ohm tweeter and a 4 ohm speaker on the same channel is the problem? i mean the amp never cuts out and sounds good! but i just checked on the other tweeters i was thinking about getting. the .75" tweeters are 6 ohm- JL Audio C1-075ct - Individual Components

and the 1" tweeters are 4 ohms- http://www.jlaudio.com/c1-100ct-car-audio-speakers-c1-individual-components-99049. would i be ok running those? because im not getting a different amp. thank you!

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
5,000+ posts
the crossover came with the tweeters. there inline right in the speaker wire. this is what it says about it on the website- Inline 6 dB / octave high-pass filters with tweeter protectors are included with this kit. The TR050-CT is designed to operate above 4 kHz with a minimum high-pass slope of 6 dB / octave.
thats not a steep enough slope, you are still playing a lot of midrange and low end.

 

Ckblood05

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  • #7
thats not a steep enough slope, you are still playing a lot of midrange and low end.
yea i figured as much. well the .75" & 1" ones have a Inline, outboard, 12 dB / octave, high-pass filters are included to ensure smooth response and reliability. would that be better? im thinking of going with the 1" JL Audio C1-100ct - Individual Components

have a look, what you think? there 4ohm also.

 

hispls

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ok so running a 8 ohm tweeter and a 4 ohm speaker on the same channel is the problem? i mean the amp never cuts out and sounds good! but i just checked on the other tweeters i was thinking about getting. the .75" tweeters are 6 ohm- JL Audio C1-075ct - Individual Components
and the 1" tweeters are 4 ohms- JL Audio C1-100ct - Individual Components. would i be ok running those? because im not getting a different amp. thank you!
I'm not exactly clear on what you're doing for crossovers for everything.

Either way you might be better off just buying the larger tweeters. Crossing too low is a very easy way to blow tweeters and the larger ones will hold more power.

 

Ckblood05

Junior Member
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  • #9
I'm not exactly clear on what you're doing for crossovers for everything.
Either way you might be better off just buying the larger tweeters. Crossing too low is a very easy way to blow tweeters and the larger ones will hold more power.
well heres the amp im running- JX360/4 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - JX - JL Audio

im running it on high-pass for front & rear. and the Inline 6 dB / octave high-pass filters with tweeter protectors to eack tweeter.

yea the .75" tweets are 6ohm and are 50w. Continuous Power Handling (RMS) & 150w peak. i can get them for $50.00

then the 1" tweets are 4ohm 60w Continuous Power Handling (RMS) & 150w. peak. them are $60.00.

both have the Inline, outboard, 12 dB / octave, high-pass filters. i think it's worth the extra $10.00 for the 1" tweeters because there bigger, handle more power and are 4 ohms like my 5x7's.

so running a 5x7 40hm & a 1" 4 ohm tweeter on each front channel with the Inline, outboard, 12 dB / octave, high-pass filters i should be good correct? the amp puts out 90 watts a channel at 2 ohms & 70 watts a channel at 4 ohms. thanks for all your input & help!!!

 

hispls

CarAudio.com Veteran
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well heres the amp im running- JX360/4 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - JX - JL Audio
im running it on high-pass for front & rear. and the Inline 6 dB / octave high-pass filters with tweeter protectors to eack tweeter.

yea the .75" tweets are 6ohm and are 50w. Continuous Power Handling (RMS) & 150w peak. i can get them for $50.00

then the 1" tweets are 4ohm 60w Continuous Power Handling (RMS) & 150w. peak. them are $60.00.

both have the Inline, outboard, 12 dB / octave, high-pass filters. i think it's worth the extra $10.00 for the 1" tweeters because there bigger, handle more power and are 4 ohms like my 5x7's.

so running a 5x7 40hm & a 1" 4 ohm tweeter on each front channel with the Inline, outboard, 12 dB / octave, high-pass filters i should be good correct? the amp puts out 90 watts a channel at 2 ohms & 70 watts a channel at 4 ohms. thanks for all your input & help!!!
larger format tweeters will help with power handling, but you may also be pushing your amp into clipping. You might stop by a reputable shop or car audio competition/show/meetup and get a second opinion on how it sounds when you play at your usual listening levels. A more experienced listener may be able to tell you you're turning the volume up too high.

That said, if you keep the volume on your head unit down 1 click from the highest you normally run it that should keep things safe. Many folks don't really understand just how much extra power your amp is making with each click of the volume knob. You can go from being fine to play for 12 hours to blown in under 3 minutes in one click.

 

Ckblood05

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  • #11
larger format tweeters will help with power handling, but you may also be pushing your amp into clipping. You might stop by a reputable shop or car audio competition/show/meetup and get a second opinion on how it sounds when you play at your usual listening levels. A more experienced listener may be able to tell you you're turning the volume up too high.
That said, if you keep the volume on your head unit down 1 click from the highest you normally run it that should keep things safe. Many folks don't really understand just how much extra power your amp is making with each click of the volume knob. You can go from being fine to play for 12 hours to blown in under 3 minutes in one click.
yea the amp never shuts off or makes any noises. yea theres a car stereo one where i bought most of my equiptment. i might stop by & see what they have to say. thanks! yea the volume goes to 40 but the highest i go is between 30-33.

 
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hispls

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yea the amp never shuts off or makes any noises. yea theres a car stereo one where i bought most of my equiptment. i might stop by & see what have to thanks! yea the volume goes to 40 but the highest i go is between 30-33.
Keep it at 29 and you'll never blow anything ever. The amp can likely clip pretty hard without protecting and if you can't hear when those tweeters are suffering you would do well to get a more experienced second opinion of what volume level is safe.

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
5,000+ posts
honestly, I'd put the rear speaker on head unit power and feed the tweeter direct power to the amp, it'll be a lot cleaner and you wont blow anything. Focus everything on the front stage as it should be. If you do that, you can properly time align the tweeters and mids as well and build a proper sound stage rather than getting the sound stage completely fked by the rears.

 

Ckblood05

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yea when i go to the stereo store i mentioned i'll get there opinion. thanks!!!!

i bought most my audio equiptment through the years from them. plus they sell the brands that i didn't get from them.

 

Ckblood05

Junior Member
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  • #15
honestly, I'd put the rear speaker on head unit power and feed the tweeter direct power to the amp, it'll be a lot cleaner and you wont blow anything. Focus everything on the front stage as it should be. If you do that, you can properly time align the tweeters and mids as well and build a proper sound stage rather than getting the sound stage completely fked by the rears.
yea i could do that. i mean the stereo puts out 50watts x 4. then run the front 5x7's off 2 channels of the amp and the tweeters on the other 2 channels of the amp. i could give it a try.

i was reading on a site- https://geoffthegreygeek.com/calculator-speakers-in-parallel/

theres a ohms calculator down the page a little. i put the ohms of the 2 speakers on each channel, the 5x7 being 4 ohms & the tweeter being 8 ohms & it said together it makes 2.7 ohms. and that one speaker gets more power than the other. it says (If the speakers wired in parallel each have a different impedance, the lower impedance speakers will draw more than the higher impedance speakers.)

so the 4 ohm speaker (the 5x7) is getting 67% of power & the 8 ohm speaker (the tweeter) is getting 33% of the power.

so thats crazy! i mean if the tweeter was getting most the power i could maybe understand. but the tweets are only getting 33%??? at 2.7 ohms the amp would put out about 77 watts a channel. because its 90 watts @ 2 0hms & 70 watts @ 4 ohms. so i figure 2.7 ohms would be about 77 watts. plus i only have the gains on the amp at half way!!

 

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