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tweeters blowing? need some advice please!
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8618534" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>so the New Meta for car audio nowadays is No rear speakers at all. All your power is focused to the front stage. Anything in the rear kills any signs of sound quality.</p><p></p><p>You need an active capable head unit which means you can assign crossover points for both mids and tweeters meaning you dont need any inline crossovers ever. Why? Because the crossover points of those passive crossovers dont neccessarily work with your vehicle acoustics. While having an active capable head unit, you can have a perfect match and harmony between mids and tweeter that works best with your vehicle. Not only that, you can time align the mid and tweeter individually what this means is, since the left side is closer to you, it'll always hit your ear first which destroys soundstage. Time alignment delays the left side and now both right and left sound waves hit your ears at the same time. This creates a virtual live studio concert on your dash. Also you can put a lot more power to your mid and tweet. Done right, you not only sound amazing, you can be heard several football fields away. You also dont just throw mids in a door and call it a day, you need to use sheet metal and seal off the gaps in the doors and turn the door into a real speaker enclosure. Deadening and creating a baffle to redirect sound into the cabin without having anything stuck in the plastic door panel section is a must as well.</p><p></p><p>None of this involves any kind of coaxials, 2 farad caps or any JL mids and highs. The only thing thats actually okay from JL is the ZR800 and thats it.</p><p></p><p>Its a lot to take in but i feel you need a real update on how a real sound system should be setup in the modern age.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8618534, member: 650438"] so the New Meta for car audio nowadays is No rear speakers at all. All your power is focused to the front stage. Anything in the rear kills any signs of sound quality. You need an active capable head unit which means you can assign crossover points for both mids and tweeters meaning you dont need any inline crossovers ever. Why? Because the crossover points of those passive crossovers dont neccessarily work with your vehicle acoustics. While having an active capable head unit, you can have a perfect match and harmony between mids and tweeter that works best with your vehicle. Not only that, you can time align the mid and tweeter individually what this means is, since the left side is closer to you, it'll always hit your ear first which destroys soundstage. Time alignment delays the left side and now both right and left sound waves hit your ears at the same time. This creates a virtual live studio concert on your dash. Also you can put a lot more power to your mid and tweet. Done right, you not only sound amazing, you can be heard several football fields away. You also dont just throw mids in a door and call it a day, you need to use sheet metal and seal off the gaps in the doors and turn the door into a real speaker enclosure. Deadening and creating a baffle to redirect sound into the cabin without having anything stuck in the plastic door panel section is a must as well. None of this involves any kind of coaxials, 2 farad caps or any JL mids and highs. The only thing thats actually okay from JL is the ZR800 and thats it. Its a lot to take in but i feel you need a real update on how a real sound system should be setup in the modern age. [/QUOTE]
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tweeters blowing? need some advice please!
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