Turn off pop > is this solution feasible?

[Bill T. 10+ year member]

Since adding my sub and upgrading to 1/0, I get a little pop out of the sub when shutting off my car.

Would adding, say a 99ufd capacitor to the remote turn on wire delay enough so when the signal is cut off the amps will turn off quietly?

Amps are JL 300/4 and 1000/1.

Bill T.

TIA

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[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

If you have an aftermarket HU, can't you just use the signal sensing capability of those amps without the remote wire at all? Have you tried that?

 

[Bill T. 10+ year member]

Dont have an aftermarket HU. Im running the stock to a Audiocontrol 3.1.

I never had this problem with my 3 JLW6's and 4 gauge power. Since upgrading to 1/0 gauge and the XXX 15", it pops.

Its not very loud, but its still there and I dont want it there.

Bill T.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Since you are using the 3.1 you should be able to use the signal sensor on the amps. I don't blame you for not wanting the pop, stuff like that drives me nuts.

 

[Bill T. 10+ year member]

Doesnt have a switch for signal sensing. Heck, I didnt even know if the amp even has it. I bought the amps a long while back while in Colorado for some skiing. Unless JL has recently changed things, I dont think they have it.

I got a killer deal with the subs.

Bill T.

 

[scottrc5391 10+ year member]

I'd like a solution posted to this problem also as I am having the same thing happen and it is annoying. It's pretty loud too. Right when I turn it off- Pop! It's not urgent, but in the long run it is just annoying. You could try what Helo said but I thought these newer amps were supposed to have a "soft turn-on/turn-off feature that prevented this. It's wierd but mine only does it like once a week for some reason. Aside from this I have that annoying thing where I have a sudden increase in power to the sub from the amp after the amp warms up, very annoying and kinda hazardous to sub if I have it cranked. Only happens in winter though. So let me know if you all ever figure the Pop thing out.

 

[Bill T. 10+ year member]

Tomorrow, I do plan to stick a 99ufd cap inline on the remote wire. The theory is: the capacitor will hold enough to keep the amps on long enough after the input source is off, then it will run the capacitor to nothing and turn off.

I will let you all know tomorrow.

Bill T.

 

[nweibley 10+ year member]

That should work, IMHO....

Mabey the pop was there before, but your previous subs were not accurate / sensitive enough to play it? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[Bill T. 10+ year member]

Very possible. Funny its only my sub that does it and not the rest of the speakers. I dont think its a ground loop, as both amps are grounded in the same spot... so in theory once again, if one amp does it, both should.

Bill T.

ps. the XXX gives me chills //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

I was just looking through the manuals for these amps online and they don't mention the signal sensing auto on either, though I could swear that they have/had it. Maybe I was mistaken...

Looked some more and it is just the 500/1 and 250/1 that has that feature. Sorry for the misinformation.

As for the capacitor on the remote lead, I don't think it will help. Most amps just shut off when the voltage on the remote drops below a certain threshold. If the turn-on/off isn't muted, the remote lead isn't going to fix that. I can't find anything that says the amps have a muted on/off and I can't see why the change in power wire size would cause the problem to start. I'll admit, I'm stumped. I would say go talk to a JL installer and see what they say or send an email to the tech reps at JL directly (what I would do in your situation) as they tend to be really helpful and know their own products really well.

 

[Bill T. 10+ year member]

This is how I believe it all works:

The amp pops because power from the remote is cut instantly from the source, and since there is naturally freewaves in the input lines, it pops.

Now with a capacitor on the remote line, it will store enough power just to keep the amps on a tad bit longer when the car is shut off. Since the source is dead and there isnt any input noise, when the capacitor runs out the amps will shut off quietly.

Again, this is the theory I composed of in my head. I dont know if it will work. But since I have a few of them laying around, it wont hurt to give it a try.

I once heard if you put a capacitor on the ignition source going to the deck, it would cause less noise. Im not sure how this works.. but it was info passed along the grapevine.

Im hoping this cures the problem.. noise always bothers me.

Bill T.

 

[Bumpin_Ack 10+ year member]

Its your grounds...i'm 99% positive, something probably happened to it when you switched wire sizes. just try grounding it somewhere else, same thing happened to 2 of my friends, for one of them, the reground worked, for the 2nd a ground loop isolator on the rcas right before the amp solved the problem (don't ask me how).

 

[Bill T. 10+ year member]

Funny you say that.. I asked my buddy in Denver and he said the same thing. Ironic thing is that I never moved the grounds after switching to 1/0 gauge. Both amps accept 4 gauge in so I left the 4 gauge already there and ran the 1/0 back and into a distribution block.

Never had the the pop before.. 100% sure of that. nweibley makes a very valid point, about the more sensitive sub, but I cant see why.

Bill T.