Trying to fix switch, board solder look good?

[JoshC 10+ year member]

I dont see any bad connections here really, 2 of them are kinda dull looking but thats about it.

The switch leads are the 3 sets of 2 joints followed by another set of 2 between the large joints

Anyone see an issue?

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[Timmothy Web 10+ year member]

It looks ok...just flow those bare copper traces with solder.

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

It looks ok...just flow those bare copper traces with solder.

I dont think my trace went bad, that dosnt sound like a good idea to me

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

IDK - a lot of that looks bad to me.

I am glad you finally took the board out.

If you plan on running the amp one way in the future (ie either full, low pass, or high pass) then I think a couple of small jumpers would be the easiest way to repair it.

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

If it works, rock it.

As for switches, it seems like every single amplifier I ever owned with switches ended up giving me grief over time. The absolute worst was my Soundstream Reference 700 because I had the pleasure of replacing EVERY GD switch in that amp.

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

he is talking about that spot between the 2 led's, and yes, flowing the solder up to the coating so that there is no exposed copper is a good idea, pretty much plated to prevent corrosion. so, you haven't touched it yet?, there is only 1 i see that looks like you might ahve re-flowed..... anywhoo, if there is a dry connection there, i cannot see it, but then again i can't see close enough and/or through all that flux. if you are good at it, then there is no problem just re-flowing questionable joints. i do it to just about every amp i open. so, what exactly is the situation? something cutting out or making noise when you touch the switch? could just be the switch contacts, and not the joints...

 

[Z1NONLY 10+ year member]

Looks like a lot of flux (messy) but functional. The large convex "bubble" is the only suspect solder joints I see and it looks like it may have more to do with mounting the component on the other side of the board than current flow.

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

lol, yah, that mess of non-corrosive flux is factory mess, and those 2 bigger "bubbles" on either side of the 8 smaller connections are the mounting tangs, which is why the furthest one is not even conncted to another circut. however, you need to look really close to spot a dry connection. dry connections are not quite as obvious as what looks like could be forming 3rd one in of that group to the right of the switch in the 1st pic. i would still put a meter on the switch and see what it's doing if you cannot see anything with the ***** eye