Tru 4.65 bridged (no rear fill)

[Pl8er 5,000+ posts]

So currently I am running ascendant 6.5's for rear fill and they are "ok" and I am running CDT cl-61's as my front comps. My thought was to bridge my tru 4.65 and run only the fronts. What does everything think? Would this destroy the speakers? I had the amp benched while getting the BB upgrade and was told its running around 80 RMS per channel. So I would guess 140-150 watts would be going to the CDT's if I bridged it.

Also, I plan on trying to go active at some point and getting rid of the rear fill completly, what would you guys suggest? Should I use the polyfill's as my mid's and buy a new pair of tweeters? Or should I get new for the front? I'm running a RF symmetry, so don't think going active would be very difficult at all.

Thanks.

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[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

So currently I am running ascendant 6.5's for rear fill and they are "ok" and I am running CDT cl-61's as my front comps. My thought was to bridge my tru 4.65 and run only the fronts. What does everything think?

Go for it...see what you think.

Would this destroy the speakers?

Not inherently. Just use your head and decrease the gain/attenuation as needed to avoid overpowering them if they begin to sound stressed.

what would you guys suggest?

Depends on your budget

Should I use the polyfill's as my mid's and buy a new pair of tweeters?

I presume you mean the Ascendant Poly's.....in which case; sure.

Or should I get new for the front?

Meh...I'd try the Poly's first. Why? Because you already have them //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif No point in spending more money if something you already have might make you happy.

 

[azngotskills 10+ year member]

I personally like my car w/o rear fill, but I have a small hatchback...its really personal opinion. I would try out the AA Poly mids w/ the CDT tweet or one of your choice and run active if you decide to. Just try it out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Pl8er 5,000+ posts]

Hey there! Thanks for the replies. I guess part of my confusion is using the pre-amp instead of the amps. I do not use the gains on my amp at all. I'll bridge it and give it a try but my pre-amp is set to 231-250 on the display, I will go back through the auto gain setting on the unit again to see what I can do.

Do you agree that active should be fairly simple using the RF Symmetry?

Also, budget wise, I would want to spend around 500-600 on a new set of fronts if I bought them. I guess I just don't want to rip the door off and install if its not going to sound good.

Dodge Stratus R/T is a pain to remove the door and get everything to line back up.

 

[azngotskills 10+ year member]

I think if you went active with a $500 budget for the frontstage, the potential for great sound is there but it will be dependent on install and tuning ability. Going active is a full out thing though, its not going to be a drop in replacement.

 

[Pl8er 5,000+ posts]

I guess I'm confused to the complexity of going active. I thought that it was basically setting the frequencies per each speaker that they are capable of? Then finding a place where you want a slight overlap of the one speaker to the other. With the symmetry, its basically just typing in the numbers you want for lowpass and highpass cutoff and you can set each one independantly.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

I guess I'm confused to the complexity of going active. I thought that it was basically setting the frequencies per each speaker that they are capable of?

While this "sounds" like an easy task (no pun intended)....finding the optimal crossover frequency and slope for your specific speakers, vehicle and installation along with proper level matching can prove to be much more challenging than one might think. While it would be pretty easy to make it sound "decent"....it is MUCH more challenging to make it sound GREAT by finding the best combination of xover point/slope and proper level matching and equalization (making all of the $$ and time well worth the effort)....especially if you are trying to do it without the use of something like an RTA.

If you can't differentiate between "good" and "great" stereos; then I wouldn't waste my time going active and just find a good modest pre-built comp set. That doesn't mean your deaf or stupid; Just that the benefits might not be worth the time and money, when a more cost and time effective alternative exists that would suit your needs just aswell. Not everybody has the same goals in mind.....and you need to figure out what best suits you.

With $500 you can build a very good active frontstage with proper tuning. Spend some time over at http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/index.php? and http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=2 researching drivers. There is so much to choose from it's very easy to get overwhelmed with the "simple" task of finding the best drivers for your taste and preference.

As far as how "simple" it would be with the Symmetry.....I can't answer as I'm not familiar with it's actual functionality.