Total 100% newbie meat.

[Skaal-tel]

That's me.

So- I've got myself a kenwood KDC-217. and 4 kenwood speakers, of dubious quality and/or age. I have a pile of wires and the harness, as well as a manual off the net.

I've got a '79 chevy camaro with original **** near everything. I need this sound setup in that car.

And/or advice. I know this is hopelessly complicated to answer. Links to great newbie how-to's would be MUCHLY appreciated.

I'm prepared to do some fabricating work to fit the system into the dash.. but before I get that far, please feel free to tell me if it's worth my time or not.

Currently, the stock radio seems to fade in and out. I suspect it's simply not getting enough juice. Should I replace the alternator (remember, we're talking 25 year old parts on EVERYthing) or is it a simpler solution.

Please have mercy on a new to the scene dude. Wiring and electronics aren't totally beyond me, as I work as a computer tech. http://www.skaaltelshogunway.web1000.com and neither are some fun little modifications.

Thanks in advance for any reply!

Click to read more...

 

[KaeZoo 10+ year member]

How many speakers in the stock system? If you have two factory 3.5" speakers in the dash and two 6x9's in back, then the toughest part might be cutting out the dash for the new CD player. But if all you have is a 4x10 mono speaker up front, and no factory cutouts or wires in the rear, it's a whole different project.

You shouldn't have to upgrade your alternator for just a new head unit. The old radio's fading in and out probably has more to do with the tuner or antenna than the power.

 

[pavengmike6 10+ year member]

Well depending on how well the car is maintained I would think about a few things before I cut my dash. Seeing your car will be an collertors item in a few years cutting the dash will take away from the value of the car. IF you do not care about that then cut away. If you do care I would mount the HU in the Glove box. Granted it may be a pain in the *** to change songs, but It will not take away from the value of the car.

Or you could build an additional center area and mount the radio in there. Yes this is some work, but a stock car is worth 1,000's more than one that has had the radio torn out. (only if it is a collectors item)

 

[pavengmike6 10+ year member]

Sorry about this. You say the old radio is fading in and out could mean 1000000 things. The amp in the HU is bad, low power (not my first choice), bad ground, speakers going out, bad ant, bad signal proccessor. The list goes on. If your alt was bad you would be getting more indications than just your radio. Can not running good, volt meter showing below 12 volts. Sluggish starting, poor preformance. And so on.

This web site is by far the best I have found. Look on the right side of the screen and you will see about 200 differnent things that it talks about. You will have to scroll around to find what you are looking for. Take the time to read this and you will know more than some on this forum.

http://www.bcae1.com/

 

[Skaal-tel]

Ok- thanks alot for the link! I've seen parts of that page before when searching for switch wiring diagrams. I agree that it is generally excellent.

As for the fading- I hope that it's the stock radio too. There are a pair of speakers mounted up in rear under the rear window. I believe there are another pair somewhere in the front, perhaps the doors or the dash- the car's getting final safety work done at the moment so I can't run outside and check!

I plan to replace both the speakers and the head unit. I agree that most of the work will be replacing the head unit- cutting the little square the original radio resides in out.

As for collector's item status.. well... That's a good point- but I plan to update/fix most of the car. Interior work, gauges, etc etc. They aren't of the age when they looked good. They're all pretty crappy lookin.

the car is 25 years old as of this april. All body panels are original, original interior and engine, with some mid-80s rims and 90s tires. The paint is circa 2000.

I'm not so sure it's a hot collector's item.

I'm willing to make a minor mod to the dash. After all, I'm simply replacing a busted *** 80s cassette deck with a modern kenwood system. If I take a little care it will look very subtle.

Do I need an amplifier? what are those for exactly? humour my noobishness.

And how about a subwoofer? How do I factor that into a 4 speaker head unit?

I'm not out to make a mad noooise machine- I just want a fairly hi-fi/modern sound setup in my car.

thanks for the replies!

 

[Skaal-tel]

 

[Anarcy 10+ year member]

Maybe dont' give everyone your license plate number....

 

[Skaal-tel]

If you're that interested in stalking me feel free. Hell, if you're willing to drive up to ontario you're probably not gonna be stopped by a license plate # or not //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Ok I've read through just about the entire site there. Much of it was waaaay over my head but I gathered several important points. With my head unit- I do NOT need an amplifier. There are 4 speaker outputs and that's just fine. I also don't need a subwoofer- but if I want one I'll need to add a crossover (yes/no?)

To power the head unit I need to have a 125 amp fuse at the battery, and be using 4 gauge wire. The fuse should be an "ANL" type fuse. This 4 gauge wire should be run to a distribution block.. whereupon varying gauges of wire and sizes of fuse are run elsewhere..

SO--- what kind of wire should I run to the head unit?

Is it possible to simply use the stock wiring for the current head unit on mine? They should both be +12v right?

Do I need fuses between the speakers and the head unit?

I feel like I'm in over my head.

 

[KaeZoo 10+ year member]

If you're that interested in stalking me feel free. Hell, if you're willing to drive up to ontario you're probably not gonna be stopped by a license plate # or not //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Ok I've read through just about the entire site there. Much of it was waaaay over my head but I gathered several important points. With my head unit- I do NOT need an amplifier. There are 4 speaker outputs and that's just fine. I also don't need a subwoofer- but if I want one I'll need to add a crossover (yes/no?)

To power the head unit I need to have a 125 amp fuse at the battery, and be using 4 gauge wire. The fuse should be an "ANL" type fuse. This 4 gauge wire should be run to a distribution block.. whereupon varying gauges of wire and sizes of fuse are run elsewhere..

SO--- what kind of wire should I run to the head unit?

Is it possible to simply use the stock wiring for the current head unit on mine? They should both be +12v right?

Do I need fuses between the speakers and the head unit?

I feel like I'm in over my head.

To power the head unit you certainly do not need a 125 amp fuse at the battery, or 4ga. wire, or any wire at all. You will need to run wire to the battery when you install an amp, but not until then.

Here's what you need to hook up to your head unit:

-12v power wire switched with the key: you'll find one attached to your current head unit.

-12v power that is constant regardless of key position: there may be one attached to the old head unit, but possibly not. You can run a wire to the battery (14-16ga. or so with a 10 amp fuse will be fine); or tap into the positive wire at your cigarette lighter; or tap into the constant power wire leading to your key switch.

-Ground wire: just connect the ground wire on the new deck to a clean metal point on your firewall.

-eight speaker wires, two for each speaker: you should be able to find them at your old radio, but older vehicles sometimes had a different wiring scheme. It might be necessary to run new wire to each speaker. If you're removing the old speakers anyway, check the wire color at each speaker and see if the same wires are present at the head unit. You do not need to fuse the speaker wires.

If you're familiar with the use of a digital multimeter, you shouldn't have any problem finding the right wires.

 

[pavengmike6 10+ year member]

Granted this is off the topic, but another mod I would do is this. The 1979 and 1978 cameros take about 3 sec to break into with a coat hanger. I installed a guard plate inside my door above my lock switch to keep people from pushing down on my lock switch and popping the lock. After 2 stereo systems I figured out the problem. My ex-friend (who is a theif) showed me how they were getting into my car

 

[Skaal-tel]

Thanks a bunch kaezoo- I had hoped that was all I had to do- and that shouldn't give me any problems at all. I am replacing the speakers- as part of this radio kit I got 2nd hand, I've got 4 pioneer speakers.. 2ohm 45 watt I think.

multimeters are fun.

paveng, do you have a picture of what I'd have to do there? I might try something like that, if I can find myself a day or so to dismantle the doors //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[pavengmike6 10+ year member]

Sorry. I did that mod WAY before they made digital cameras. All I did was get a piece of sheet metal (you can buy it at any hardware store) and bent it to a shape that covered that locking arm. I then drilled a big whole in it and took out the lock (the hole the key goes in and mounted the plate (like a washer would be used) to the lock. It was an real easy job, and I never got my car broken into again. I wonder if it had anything to do with my friend moving away around the same time. HMMMM makes me think he was not my friend after all.

 

[supraman1379 10+ year member]

Did you know they should make a cd player mounting kit for that year camaro. Go to a local electronics store and find out....its a lot better then cuttin yer dash apart unless you absolutely have to.