Thoughts on Taramps?

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Original wis

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I did a search and the info I got back was 2 years old so I'm asking for updated info.

I bought a Bass 1200.1 to power 4 300rms subs. It was only 119 bucks new in box on Walmart.com. My electrical can support up to 3k so it's good. I'm not using the LP or HP filters I have a DSP.

A few questions

1. I keep hearing and seeing that they do over rated. But the amp says it only needs a 60 amp fuse. How's it going to do 1200rms on that? I know musical won't get that high but I'm trying to understand.

2. What's the life span of their amps from personal experience?

3. I'm running DC Audio level 1 12s. Was going to get the DC Audio 1200 monoblock but it's 424 bucks. And the mini 2100 is 399. What do those amps have that the ta6ble doesn't that would make buying those worth it?

4. Same with the TS 400x4. I can get 2 of those for 100 to power my 3 way front stage and my rear fill. But the DC Audio 90.4 is 499 and the mini 1000.4 is 399. What makes those with it when the Taramps will do the job?

I'm just trying to understand. What's the value in paying 4x the cost for DC?
 
1. I keep hearing and seeing that they do over rated. But the amp says it only needs a 60 amp fuse. How's it going to do 1200rms on that? I know musical won't get that high but I'm trying to understand.
You are correct on suspecting these claims. As proven by Ohm's Law, it takes power to make power. If the amp was 100% efficient, you would multiply that 60a fuse by 13.8v (car running) and you would get 828w RMS. But since no amp is 100% efficient, a rule of thumb is to multiply Amps by 10v. So that amp is ~600w RMS. This is for Class D amplifiers, Class A & A/B have even lower efficiencies.
As for the price difference, several factors play a role. Mainly is country of manufacture and quality of the components.
 
Fuses don’t work the way you think they do. A fuse can often handle double its rating for 3 to 5 seconds before blowing. With the nature of music, that 60 amp fuse will be fine unless you ride around playing test tones at full volume.

I have ran a 150 amp fuse on 3000 watt rms amplifiers for years and never blew one.
 
I've been running taramps Smart amps on my substage for awhile now and being pretty mean to them. I'll try to give a general answer to your reliability/brand questions.

Taramps is a full-bridge amp, the DC is most likely a Half-bridge amp. That means taramps can be smaller and make more power, more efficiently. The downside is they can be a bit fragile and sensitive to low voltage/low Impedance.

Dollar for dollar, taramps will give you more power and probably last just as long as the DC as long as you listen to the owners manual. Don't run it below whatever it's rated Ohm load is, don't run it below 13v, etc. The DC will be more like a tank, it takes alot to kill a Korean half-bridge amp.

Matt
 
I've been running taramps Smart amps on my substage for awhile now and being pretty mean to them. I'll try to give a general answer to your reliability/brand questions.

Taramps is a full-bridge amp, the DC is most likely a Half-bridge amp. That means taramps can be smaller and make more power, more efficiently. The downside is they can be a bit fragile and sensitive to low voltage/low Impedance.

Dollar for dollar, taramps will give you more power and probably last just as long as the DC as long as you listen to the owners manual. Don't run it below whatever it's rated Ohm load is, don't run it below 13v, etc. The DC will be more like a tank, it takes alot to kill a Korean half-bridge amp.

Matt
Gotcha. Thanks i appreciate it. My electrical supports 2900 watts so I should stay well above the 13s.
 
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