Thoughts on "all in one" deadeners

[Blackout67]

Recently got myself a 98 Cherokee. Anyone who has owned an XJ knows they are far from the quietest vehicles to drive and I wanna quite it down.

Normally with my other vehicles I've just slapped down a layer of Kilmat and called it a day but I wanna go a bit further. Found this and for $70 for a case it not only is too enticing not to buy but also too good to be true. Anyone know how well these "3in1" deadeners work decently? Not tryna go for maximum silence and not tryna spend $300 on deadener

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I've used there 50mil and 80mil. That stuff is mega thick! I use the 50 anywhere fitment is an issue. That looks like it would work well in a sub box, parts of the floor panel, headliner, and in the outer door skins

 

[HardofWhoring]

Here is where I question people who say things like this, without any proof. (It's also poor/broken English).
"20-30% more effective than any competitors on the market."

"butyl BASED B-mastic". It just looks like foam to me. This looks like what you put overtop of sound deadener. That's also their own name, and I can't stand when companies do that ****. It's Certs with retsyn. Retsyn is vegetable oil, (those ********).

I have no experience with it, but just looks like cheap chinese foam to me. On that picture, the butyl layer looks like foam. I would guess it would quiet it down a little, but that butyl layer is the most important. There are other budget friendly options, that I would go with over this.

 

[Blackout67]

Here is where I question people who say things like this, without any proof. (It's also poor/broken English).
"20-30% more effective than any competitors on the market."

"butyl BASED B-mastic". It just looks like foam to me. This looks like what you put overtop of sound deadener. That's also their own name, and I can't stand when companies do that ****. It's Certs with retsyn. Retsyn is vegetable oil, (those ********).

I have no experience with it, but just looks like cheap chinese foam to me. On that picture, the butyl layer looks like foam. I would guess it would quiet it down a little, but that butyl layer is the most important. There are other budget friendly options, that I would go with over this.

That's what I was thinking. The reviews had me second guessing myself so I wanted to get opinions from people have actual experience with sound deadener rather than the laymen's Amazon review that has no frame of reference.

Best to stick to just 80 mill butyl and then a layer of CCF on top? Never used anything other than butyl based products

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Here is where I question people who say things like this, without any proof. (It's also poor/broken English).
"20-30% more effective than any competitors on the market."

"butyl BASED B-mastic". It just looks like foam to me. This looks like what you put overtop of sound deadener. That's also their own name, and I can't stand when companies do that ****. It's Certs with retsyn. Retsyn is vegetable oil, (those ********).

I have no experience with it, but just looks like cheap chinese foam to me. On that picture, the butyl layer looks like foam. I would guess it would quiet it down a little, but that butyl layer is the most important. There are other budget friendly options, that I would go with over this.

Agree, it's foam but good damping foam works in some areas, like boxes and headliners. The best deadener that I have ever used is no longer available, E-dead - that stuff was the bomb!

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

I had a 98 XJ and they are not quiet. Lots of noise bleeds thru the front firewall. I used stuffed polyfil batting between the door panel and the door and that was very effective. I filled the rear tailgate with foam (cheap foam from Hobby Lobby), which helped kill exhaust and road noise.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I've used that 80Mil stuff, same company, from Amazon, worked fine in my grandson's car. Have not used that foam, can't really say one way or another.

 

[Blackout67]

I had a 98 XJ and they are not quiet. Lots of noise bleeds thru the front firewall. I used stuffed polyfil batting between the door panel and the door and that was very effective. I filled the rear tailgate with foam (cheap foam from Hobby Lobby), which helped kill exhaust and road noise.

I've heard that pool noodles make good deadener as well from what I've seen on XJ forums. Thought about wedging it in the door panel between the outer skin and the speaker baffle and then getting some Kilmat on there

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I've heard that pool noodles make good deadener as well from what I've seen on XJ forums. Thought about wedging it in the door panel between the outer skin and the speaker baffle and then getting some Kilmat on there

Just make sure nothing blocks the weep holes at the bottom of the doors.

 

[Blackout67]

Just make sure nothing blocks the weep holes at the bottom of the doors.

Learned that lesson when I closed the door on my truck and 3 gallons worth of water splashed around

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Deadner isnt cheap. That "Not wanting to spend $300 on Deadner" idea is dirt cheap in my opinion for a Noisy vehicle/Road Noise ect. It will not take much to kill that $300 Budget to get some decent affects on that type of vehicle. An easy $500 to start with. I like 80 mill, its thick enough to place on and just thin enough to work with. Ive got 3 layers and its not enough for an Xcab truck for sure. Take a look at Keephope Alives SS Camero build and even his older Accord build to get some other Ideas about deadening materials and cost saving tactics that may benefit you and your budget

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

I've heard that pool noodles make good deadener as well from what I've seen on XJ forums. Thought about wedging it in the door panel between the outer skin and the speaker baffle and then getting some Kilmat on there

I'm sure that works too and pool noodles won't soak up water

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I treat my vehicles to an extent where they become some of the quietest examples of that vehicle. It isn't cheap if you're buying quality products. I've done 100% coverage of deadener, foams, and MLV on several vehicles over the past 25 years. The idea of a product that combines these isn't new or novel, but it's hella expensive when done correctly and terrible on any surface that isn't flat. The main issue is the inability to properly roll the deadener into place, for proper adhesion and bonding. This is why you don't see this kind of combo. You will find MLV and foam bonded together, or foam and lead sheets which bend easier.

Noise comes from the doors, the floor (wheel wells, trans tunnel, rear seat, floor, etc), the roof, the door seals, the glass, etc. Treating a whole car takes about 140 hours and you spend a grand for the cheap stuff. Don't forget to treat all of the interior panels before you cover up the metal surfaces that you've treated. Everything behaves as a system and each layer plays a role.

The reality is that anyone can have deadener made, anyone can have foam made, and they get to choose the price point based on quality and specs. Will that product stick properly on vertical surfaces and provide useful elastomeric properties? I would guess not given the price. Will it stay on a floor and improve transmission loss? It would be better than nothing at all, for sure! There will challenges on irregular surfaces since it does need to be 100% on the floor, wheel wells, and rear quarter panels. Bending it will be tough, but not impossible, and your seams need to be sealed. It's tedious, and after that effort you'll have treated one of the eight sources for noise. Hell, on a really budget build I laid carpet padding down and covered it with thick vinyl flooring in a pickup truck to treat the floor and rear wall. After getting the factory carpet back on, the truck was noticeably quieter - in that the floor was no longer the loudest source. When you treat one area, the next loudest area becomes apparent. And you'll only hear one source at a time (usually).

Certainly, many (if not most) people just slap the cheapest stuff they can find, and they do 100% coverage, and it's better than it was, and they are happy. It's your car, and you can work in phases or stages as funds become available. You'll learn along the way!