This is going in after my 120 ft.^2 of eDead on Saturday :)

[darkhunter139 10+ year member]

If it requires a heat gun to make it stick, 1) its most likely asphalt based, uhm ewwww, and 2) it is most likely breaking down the material as you heat it, rendering it less effective than if it hadn't needed the additional heat to set it in place.
The good shit, the real butyl based stuff with proper adhesive, requires NO heat to make it stick, and it actually increases its bonding strength the longer its attached.

K am I not touching any of the crappy brands.

Ill just do as much as I can with my roll of rammat that I have now then buy another one when I can afford it

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

K am I not touching any of the crappy brands.
Ill just do as much as I can with my roll of rammat that I have now then buy another one when I can afford it

You are MUCH better off using Raamat BXT than you are using anything eD offers. Excellent choice for a budget mat.

 

[na_rsx 10+ year member]

Yeah that mylar layer eDead uses, instead of aluminum foil, rocks! And who cares if we've seen consistent examples of the layers separating from themselves (on the NEW stuff), its cheap as shit.
What an awesome product.

That of course is your opinion, I might do a test myself with various samples. Then we will see what the outcome is. As far as my edead goes, still on, and I live in Chicago, we get the shittiest summers ever.

Those tests, how long ago were they?

 

[lexani2002 10+ year member]

edead is actually good, have my whole hatch and doors deaden with it, awesome shit. and that test they did like a year ago, is old shit. their new stuff is awesome.

i just put in there new stuff,in my project truck im working on,on the floor the edges are peeling up,my roof its just falling off,luckly i got it all cheap from someone local,300ft^2 of the cheap stuff for 100.00,now i know why he was selling it cheap....

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

That of course is your opinion, I might do a test myself with various samples. Then we will see what the outcome is. As far as my edead goes, still on, and I live in Chicago, we get the shittiest summers ever.
Those tests, how long ago were they?

I like you RSX, but you have a hard time separating fact from opinion when it comes to eD discussions.
eDead uses a mylar layer rather than aluminum foil. Fact. Mylar is inferior to aluminum for the design intent. Fact. Numerous people have testified that the layers have started separating. Fact. Hell there's even one guy saying it before I could reply to you in this very thread. Don, from sound deadener showdown, has tested the stuff himself and found it to consistently separate. Well documented testing. You've seen his threads on it as well as I have, you pretending to not know about it now, and insisting we wont know for sure until YOU make the test only shows your personal biased towards wanting an eD product to succeed. Its okay, I still like you.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

That of course is your opinion, I might do a test myself with various samples. Then we will see what the outcome is. As far as my edead goes, still on, and I live in Chicago, we get the shittiest summers ever.
Those tests, how long ago were they?

The tests that showed eDead V1SE² peeling and separating where done last month. The "test" consisted of putting some samples on a piece of sheet metal and leaving it on my back deck where the material never got above 125°F, 40° less than most cars see when parked in the sun during the summer. The V1SE² I tested a year ago didn't have the same problem, but the V1² did. ED swears that the new and old versions are identical but the adhesive bond strength of the new samples is 1/7 that of the old.

It is entirely likely that older versions of V1SE² have not had problems. The Mylar facing is part of the problem for both V!² and V1SE². It has a strong inherent curl that leads to problems when the adhesive isn't up to par. Even when there haven't been reliability problems caused by the Mylar, it still compromises the products performance significantly - both its ability to damp vibrations and block sound.

So, the V1SE² problem only applies to recent shipments. ED put some in a gas grill and said it meets spec, proving that they can't tell the old stuff from the new. Several people have posted photographs of recently installed eDead peeling off or separating. Hope that helps.

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

The tests that showed eDead V1SE² peeling and separating where done last month. The "test" consisted of putting some samples on a piece of sheet metal and leaving it on my back deck where the material never got above 125°F, 40° less than most cars see when parked in the sun during the summer. The V1SE² I tested a year ago didn't have the same problem, but the V1² did. ED swears that the new and old versions are identical but the adhesive bond strength of the new samples is 1/7 that of the old.
It is entirely likely that older versions of V1SE² have not had problems. The Mylar facing is part of the problem for both V!² and V1SE². It has a strong inherent curl that leads to problems when the adhesive isn't up to par. Even when there haven't been reliability problems caused by the Mylar, it still compromises the products performance significantly - both its ability to damp vibrations and block sound.

So, the V1SE² problem only applies to recent shipments. ED put some in a gas grill and said it meets spec, proving that they can't tell the old stuff from the new. Several people have posted photographs of recently installed eDead peeling off or separating. Hope that helps.

I appreciate your testing the different products. I ask the question of whether it does what it is intended to do which is dampen the sound? NA RSX and I live in the same area. I got xtreme for my doors, but I was gonna layer my floor with it before I recarpeted it. if it peels in an area that I can't see, it doesn't matter to me. I needed something that was not too expensive for my floor. Nobody it really saying how good or bad it dampens sound, they are just reporting curling corners and all of that.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I appreciate your testing the different products. I ask the question of whether it does what it is intended to do which is dampen the sound? NA RSX and I live in the same area. I got xtreme for my doors, but I was gonna layer my floor with it before I recarpeted it. if it peels in an area that I can't see, it doesn't matter to me. I needed something that was not too expensive for my floor. Nobody it really saying how good or bad it dampens sound, they are just reporting curling corners and all of that.

The two layers work in unison to perform the desired result. Having the two layers de-laminate from one another will be more than a simple aesthetic problem.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

I appreciate your testing the different products. I ask the question of whether it does what it is intended to do which is dampen the sound? NA RSX and I live in the same area. I got xtreme for my doors, but I was gonna layer my floor with it before I recarpeted it. if it peels in an area that I can't see, it doesn't matter to me. I needed something that was not too expensive for my floor. Nobody it really saying how good or bad it dampens sound, they are just reporting curling corners and all of that.

Price per square foot shouldn't be your primary consideration. The most important thing is to determine what you are trying to accomplish with the floor. If you are trying to reduce panel resonance to improve the sound you introduce, you seldom need to treat the entire floor. Floors are complex with bends, ridges and bolt down points for seats and seat belts, etc. In this case, you only need to treat the areas of open, unsupported sheet metal.

If you also want to control noise entering the passenger compartment, you should look into a barrier product, like the mass loaded vinyl/foam composites frequently used for this purpose. In this case, you need to do the limited vibration damping described above and then cover the entire thing with a layer of barrier.

The two layers work in unison to perform the desired result. Having the two layers de-laminate from one another will be more than a simple aesthetic problem.

AND the Mylar layer doesn't do crap - so even if it didn't separate, the only function it performs is protecting the adhesive. For a constrained layer viscoelastic damper (CLVED), you a constraining layer (facing) that is more rigid, dense and massive than the adhesive. Mylar is just too similar. One guy reported doing identical, symmetrical parts of his car - maybe quarters, can't remember - one side with two layers of V1SE² and the other with one layer of Dynamat Xtreme. He said that the DX side was much less resonant.

 

[iowaaurora 10+ year member]

just thoat i might chime in on e-dead

i have use 1000's of sq ft of e-dead and like everyone else i did have problems untill.

i started useing a primer firestone quick prime to be exact but there are many of others(genflex prime,mulehide,versi gard prime,etc) sold at roofing contractor stores (abc supply,stestons)

i am a union roofer and we use a lot of butul based prouducts on metal roofs and

always use a primer to make products actualy stay on the roof and work as they were ment to do.

since useing quick prime on the ceiling of my aurora my e dead is still stuck and i would doubt anyone could peel it all off whith any tool you have.in any amount of time.

and prime will make any mat stick 100% better

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

The two layers work in unison to perform the desired result. Having the two layers de-laminate from one another will be more than a simple aesthetic problem.

just thoat i might chime in on e-dead
i have use 1000's of sq ft of e-dead and like everyone else i did have problems untill.

i started useing a primer firestone quick prime to be exact but there are many of others(genflex prime,mulehide,versi gard prime,etc) sold at roofing contractor stores (abc supply,stestons)

i am a union roofer and we use a lot of butul based prouducts on metal roofs and

always use a primer to make products actualy stay on the roof and work as they were ment to do.

since useing quick prime on the ceiling of my aurora my e dead is still stuck and i would doubt anyone could peel it all off whith any tool you have.in any amount of time.

and prime will make any mat stick 100% better

All I'll say to this is that in my 3 years of studying these products, eDead V1² and V1SE² are the ONLY butyl products I've heard of having adhesion problems. Primer shouldn't be necessary and does nothing at the Mylar to adhesive interface. It also does nothing to improve performance. Needing to use primer adds time and cost so people should take that in to consideration if they are drawn to these products by price.

 

[iowaaurora 10+ year member]

All I'll say to this is that in my 3 years of studying these products, eDead V1² and V1SE² are the ONLY butyl products I've heard of having adhesion problems. Primer shouldn't be necessary and does nothing at the Mylar to adhesive interface. It also does nothing to improve performance. Needing to use primer adds time and cost so people should take that in to consideration if they are drawn to these products by price.

primer take a few min to apply

1 gallon cost 25$ free to me

primer will improve the proformance of any product by helping it adhear to any surface ...

but your point is well taking considering you have much more exp in this department then i

just puting out there what i do to make stuff work better

i use prime on dyomat aswell because whith the weater change in iowa from one extream to the other i have seen all fourms of mat fail and primer will make it that much better and improve the chances in 3 years it willl be there still stuck.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Ive lived in Iowa for several years, never needed to apply a primer on any of the decent mats I used, there or anywhere else Ive lived.

 

[reed dollaz 10+ year member]

yes it will sound good

 

[adio 5,000+ posts]

my edead still works........ its on the top of my trunk lid