testing ground

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

bump

 

[standbackimapro 10+ year member]

You can use the Ohms Feature on the DMM, or you can use the tone if it has it,

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

well i will play with it in a few and see what i come up with

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

tested where i have my big 3 ground connections at and i got .5ohms most resistance i seen was .6 thats not too bad is it, and i have my back battery grounded to my front with a run of 1/0 kicker wire and i was gonna make another ground in the back a short 1ft piece of 1/0 for a extra ground but i measured that resistance and got over 20ohms so giving the rear battery a second ground wouldnt help would it, if i am grounding to a place that has 20ohms resistance

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

also if i leave my exisiting chassis to engine ground and add a battery to engine ground would that help the voltage at all or pointless

 

[SlickNick 10+ year member]

The best ground you'll get is having a run of atleast 1/0 gauge straight to your battery's negative terminal //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Not true. Your ground is ONLY as good as the front battery is grounded so if you run a 0 from back to front but you have a 10 gauge from front to chasis, the 0 is only to be grounded through that 10 gauge. In his case, it wouldn't be detrimental (it's a DECENT ground) but ONLY because he has a 0 from the battery to the chassis.

And king, it would be pointless to run to a 20 ohm resistant spot on your back wall but you need to make sure you're doing that right. 20 ohms is a lot for a grounded metal. If you could find a better spot in the back, ground the battery out to that and lose that 0 from back to front...it's pointless.

Here's why. I had an electrician (who later opened his own car audio shop) tell me that you can only pull as much power as your battery is grounded. This means, if you have a 10 gauge ground from battery to chassis, then that 10 gauge's worth of current is all you're going to get. You'll still get 14 volts but the current wont be much. For this reason, taking a 0 from back to front is pointless because your front is only grounded out with 1 0 gauge wire. So you're only getting one 0 gauge's worth of power PERIOD. by take a 0 from the back battery to chassis, you are opening up the current of the back battery.

This is also why running from engine to chassis is better than running from engine to neg. battery and then from neg. battery to chassis. There will prolly be a lot of people that disagree with me but I don't care. I listen to the experts. I hope this helps and solves your problem.

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

Yea i have my grounds done on the big 3 with 1/0 knu for the battery to chassis only about a 6" piece of 1/0 and then i used a piece of 15" kicker 1/0 grounded from my engine to my chassis and on both my chassis was my firewall i sanded down and made sure it was bare metal, and i got my back battery grounded to the front battery with one run of kicker 1/0 and power wire from front to back is knu 1/0

 

[SlickNick 10+ year member]

Yea i have my grounds done on the big 3 with 1/0 knu for the battery to chassis only about a 6" piece of 1/0 and then i used a piece of 15" kicker 1/0 grounded from my engine to my chassis and on both my chassis was my firewall i sanded down and made sure it was bare metal, and i got my back battery grounded to the front battery with one run of kicker 1/0 and power wire from front to back is knu 1/0

I know. I was saying ground out your back battery somewhere in the back and not up front at the front battery