testing ground

ok so set dmm to ohms then touch the neg prong to the neg battery terminal then place the positive prong on the ground location

whats a good and a bad ground as in resistance

 
i think you will drop volt ther while playin sound so you may need to turn it on then test it with car running i went and checked mine to and car off volt was the same every where then i started the car and got diff reading with 1/2 vol.

 
i think you will drop volt ther while playin sound so you may need to turn it on then test it with car running i went and checked mine to and car off volt was the same every where then i started the car and got diff reading with 1/2 vol.

ohhh ok well its too cold for me to go play with it outside i will try it out tommorow

and the ohms testing as well

ohh yea 12.4 is resting voltage think i should charge my batteries or what if so i got a charger it does 2amps/15amps or 100 amps so which setting should i use

 
ohhh ok well its too cold for me to go play with it outside i will try it out tommorow
and the ohms testing as well

ohh yea 12.4 is resting voltage think i should charge my batteries or what if so i got a charger it does 2amps/15amps or 100 amps so which setting should i use
if you have time id do trickle charge the 2amps is fine fast charge kills batts

 
yea i might throw them on the charger tommorow or something or tueday since i will be subless i got to send back one of my l7's has a bad mechanical noise

 
well i cranked my truck and tested it out for resistance at the front battery to big battery to chassis ground i have no resistance but i have 5ohms resistance on my chassis to engine ground, but not lost voltage at idle but no system playing since its late and dont want to wake up anyone will having my system on affect if i will get voltage loss

and then i tested my back wall on my truck and its 20hms resistance haha dont think thats a good ground but if i ground my back battery a second time once to the front battery and once to the back battery that should help my battery i would think

 
i wonder how i can get a better ground and less resistance for my chassis to engine?? the ground spot on the chassis is only like 1ft from where the battery to chassis ground is and i have no resistance there

 
I found this kinda confusing but if its not should be a sticky on here

This is an old GM Technical Service Bulletin, but it should help anyone wanting to verify that their amp has a good ground:

METHOD OF VERIFYING ' GOOD ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GROUND ' #87-8-139 - (04/07/1987)

VEHICLES AFFECTED: ALL MODELS

When diagnosing electronic systems for incorrect operation, it is often necessary to verify that ground circuits are good. This article is intended to clarify what is meant by the term "good ground" and the preferred tools and methods for verifying it.

A "good ground" is a ground circuit that has a resistance of zero OHMS.

Ground circuit resistance can be measured in OHMS using a digital volt OHM meter (DVOM). When using a DVOM, it must be set on the 200 OHM scale to obtain an accurate measure of the circuit resistance. Many meters have both a 200 OHM scale and a 200 K scale. The 200 K scale will not measure zero OHMS accurately. If you are not sure how the meter is to be set for the 200 OHM scale, refer to the meter operating instructions for proper settings. If the meter is an autoranging or self-scaling meter, read the meter carefully to be sure which scale it is setting itself to.

Before measuring resistance in any circuit, the resistance of the meter should be measured by touching the leads together. A meter with a good battery and leads in good condition will read less than .2 OHMS usually zero. If the leads measure anything more, an accurate measure of the circuit resistance may not be possible.

Always remember - resistance cannot be measured accurately on a "live" circuit, All current flow through a circuit must be stopped by disconnecting its power source before measuring resistance.

Ground circuit resistance can also be checked by measuring the voltage drop across the circuit with a DVOM set on, the 2 volt scale. The voltage drop will be zero across a "good ground" circuit.

Remember, fully understand a meter's functions before using it!

To add to this, a good ground for car audio applications will have a return resistance reading of 1/2 ohm or less. I have yet to have a return reading of 0 ohms. If a ground return reading cannot be made to get below 1/2 ohm by means of the "BIG 3", then it is adviseable to ground direct to the battery. Electricity is an algebra equation, what you do to one side you must do to the other. Pay as much attention to the ground wire as you do the power wire.

The BIG 3 is a great place to start for a good ground, however it is the assumed proper method of grounding. What we are talking about here is the older and wiser 4th brother to the BIG 3 (the BIG 4).

So a proper ground wire will be as follows.

- clean of residue and paint.

- secure.

- have a resistance return of 1/2 ohm or less.

- be of adequate guage to carry the return as compared to the power wire.

To simplify the measuring of the return, use your meter as described. Disconnect the - battery terminal and disconnect the ground wire from you amp. If your dmm probes are not long enough, you will need to create a jumper extension out of some primary wire or whatever wire you have handy. Measure this wire for any resistance reading and subtract it from the total.

Many installers are not aware of this nor practice this method. It takes time and time = $ so don't get all pissy if you had a professional install done and this was not checked. A poor ground connection or high resistance reading may seem trivial under no load, but once you are pounding your nice new amp and it is drawing large amounts of current, this little reading has become a monster reading that has caused many an amp to fail for no apparent reason. It may be noticeable as a extremely hot running amplifier in a short time period, poor output levels or diminishing levels and of course a blown power supply or output section in the amplifier.

While the original article was written for the years gone by, it still is applicable to the newer generation of vehicles. A good ground is not about the amount or size of the metal in the return to the battery but about the resistance through it. Todays vehicles are a combination of metals, spot welds, glued together unibody panels and isolated chassis components. The return through these components is where the resistance reading comes into question and this is what we need people to understand, why the BIG 4 needs to be done if the BIG 3 does not solve the problem.

 
i dont remember exactly what the number was, but what i did was tested the resistance on one of my big 3 ground wires at the end that bolted to the chassis, while it was unhooked and used that as a baseline. it was very low, .1 ohm, something like that. i only have one grounding point the rear, and when i tested it, it was about the same IIRC. it's been a couple of years since i did my initial install.

 
ok so the part where i am testing must be unhooked so bascially best thing to do is unhook my negative terminal on my battery and then test where i want to ground right??

or leave my battery neg hooked up but just remove where i used a groundind spot for my big 3 and test where i have them hooked at and see the resistance i get

 
i wonder how i can get a better ground and less resistance for my chassis to engine?? the ground spot on the chassis is only like 1ft from where the battery to chassis ground is and i have no resistance there
The best ground you'll get is having a run of atleast 1/0 gauge straight to your battery's negative terminal //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
yea thats what i figured connect battery neg to chassis then engine to battery negative and then also gonna keep my existing engine to chassis ground, and i have my back battery grounded to the front with a run of 1/0 and then gonna give that a second ground in the back to the back wall of the cab and see if it helps voltage

if voltage drops then i will remove what i added if voltage goes up then i will keep it how i have it

whats a good voltage for running a zx1500 at 1600rms and a zx850.4 only using 2 channels 350rms so 1950rms using stock 130amp alt with only the 2 grounds on the big 3 done, run of 1/0 power and run of 1/0 ground from the front battery to the back battery(stinger spv70), at the amp lowest voltage at idle with the engine warm and full tilt is 12.8 not bad i guess

 
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