Teh Teebone door pod worklog

[req 5,000+ posts]

if you dont mind the threadjack teeman.

he has WAY more depth than i did. so his will be eaiser and wont have to build out as much. it all dependson the car and the size hole you cut //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

you can see the REALLY THIN and SUPER STRETCHY material i used, thats a MUST. if its too thick, then the lip on the back where it overlaps the hole you cut out will not be flush with the door (because you will soak it in resin)

i think its pretty self explanatory. just make sure the wood piece you mount inside the door is like 1~2 inches smaller than the actual hole you make in the door panel, otherwise you wont be able to slide the whole pod in when you are done //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

i also suggest rounding the edges of the baffle you make with a router. it would look much much better- too late for me however //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

*icetee*

also pull all the tape and foil off and try to resin the back side too. id put glass there before the inside. eaiser to apply!!

BIG TIP!!!

SHOOT YOUR ALUMINUM FOIL, and tape with spray adhesive and wait till it tacks- then aply it. then do the same with the other side of the aluminum foil and the backside of the fleece - its WAY eaiser than hot glue this way. and you can pull up the fleece and stretch it more without ripping the foil and having small lumps from the hot glue //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

the only thing is i don't have a router to cut perfect circles. can anyone recommend and an affordable one and how do i use it?

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

tommorrw when i'm in town i'll get a thin material for the front. also i might pick up a router at home depot. could always use one cause i make sub boxes all the time.

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

to draw the circles on the wood, get some cardboard, a screw, and a pencil. measure the RADIUS of your cut onto the cardboard, and poke your pencil thru the end. screw the screw into the middle. (put all the radius's you will use on the cardboard while you are at it with a ruler) then just use the screw as a pivot and trace your circle //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

just get a nice sharp new jigsaw blade and go real slow. small circles are nigh on IMPOSSIBLE to do with a router unelsss you have a template and a router table.

just cut with a jigsaw (cut the inner circle first!!!) then cut the outer one.

i did a good job, just take your time. and use a new blade.

1\2" 3+ layer plywood is my favorite for midbass\midrange baffles

 

[rocky 59 5,000+ posts]

to draw the circles on the wood, get some cardboard, a screw, and a pencil. measure the RADIUS of your cut onto the cardboard, and poke your pencil thru the end. screw the screw into the middle. (put all the radius's you will use on the cardboard while you are at it with a ruler) then just use the screw as a pivot and trace your circle //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
just get a nice sharp new jigsaw blade and go real slow. small circles are nigh on IMPOSSIBLE to do with a router unelsss you have a template and a router table.

just cut with a jigsaw (cut the inner circle first!!!) then cut the outer one.

i did a good job, just take your time. and use a new blade.

1\2" 3+ layer plywood is my favorite for midbass\midrange baffles

do you mean 1/2'' mdf or 3+ plywood sheets together for baffles?

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

no PLYWOOD is made of multiple layers of thin sheets of wood and the grain is rotated 90 degrees each time a new piece of wood is glued down.

1\2" plywood with at LEAST 3 layers of wood is what i use. [see picture in above post]

 

[rocky 59 5,000+ posts]

oo okay i thought you meant like three layers of 3+layer plywood. i was like man thats a huge thick *** piece

 

[PESteele 10+ year member]

im confused and never made door pods but am experienced with fiberglass. What is the purpose of the wood is that the back of the pod or is it a placeholder

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

its an easy way to make a beginning strong mount. its also there to hold the fleece in place so you can do the 'reverse stretch' that i invented. well, im sure somone has done it before me, but nobody taught me how to do it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

technically you could make a flat piece of fiberglass to save more airspace and use that to hold the fleece back, but wood is stronger than glass when flat. and its eaiser to just get a piece of scrap wood and jigsaw it than use your glassing materials.

so thats all //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[PESteele 10+ year member]

ok so hes just making a base to put the mdf ring on

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

thats what he has so far, yes. he also is making the back side of the pod sealed and NOT infinite baffle. the "wood + stretchy material" is just an easy + quick + cheap + effective way to make the rear part of the enclosure.

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

did a layer of glass and now i'm out of supplies

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

i'm thinking i might make a jig to cut out the circles.

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

there is still some foil on the back that looks like it won't come off so i might just resin over it

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

so the props i use for the baffle should mount to the sides of the enclosure and not the back piece of wood?