System with no real sub

medik13
10+ year member

Member
How's this for my setup. I am installing this in a 06 F-250 and am into pure SQ not volume. I have decided against a real sub and decided to go with the set up listed.

Front stage: Rainbow SLC230's (purchased)

Subs : 6.5 Tang Band or EU-700's in the rear factory locations IB

Amp: Zed audio Draconia 70X4

Doors and rear locations will be deadened with 2 layers of material. Mounting speakers to 1/2" MDF baffle.

Kind of want to stay stealth. Just want to be able to reproduce most low frequencies and decent midbass clarity. Any comments?

 
How's this for my setup. I am installing this in a 06 F-250 and am into pure SQ not volume. I have decided against a real sub and decided to go with the set up listed.
Front stage: Rainbow SLC230's (purchased)

Subs : 6.5 Tang Band or EU-700's in the rear factory locations IB

Amp: Zed audio Draconia 70X4

Doors and rear locations will be deadened with 2 layers of material. Mounting speakers to 1/2" MDF baffle.

Kind of want to stay stealth. Just want to be able to reproduce most low frequencies and decent midbass clarity. Any comments?
Well, I'm not sure about the Tang Bands or EU-700s, but I know that you'll want to feed more than 70 watts RMS to the Rainbows.

But, I'm thinking about doing a setup very similar to this one. Let me know how it all sounds once it's finished. Good luck.

 
I will say that even "pure sound quality" setups will require proper reproduction of the subbass frequencies. Which means that your setup will need to properly reproduce all frequencies down to atleast 30hz....20hz preferably.

Remember that part of true sound quality is the ability to reproduce subbass frequencies at realistic output levels.

Personally, I would modify the rear mounting locations some and try to fit atleast some decent excursion 8" subwoofers in there. ID8v3 for example. Reasonable mounting depth, reasonably good output for an 8" subwoofer.

 
I did the same set up and had thought about the choices you suggested.I instead wound up going with some Vanadium 8"s.Measure and see what you can fit.Mock stuff up with cardboard,wood etc.The Vanadium 8"s pump and are way more impressive then I ever imagined.Get some rattle pad as well.You will need it.Here's a link to some photos I took along the way:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tpslizard/album?.dir=/5382re2

I have a Nissan Titan Kingcab BTW.

 
Well, I'm not sure about the Tang Bands or EU-700s, but I know that you'll want to feed more than 70 watts RMS to the Rainbows.
The Rainbows are rated for 75WRMS. This amp is 85WRMS typical RMS power.

I will say that even "pure sound quality" setups will require proper reproduction of the subbass frequencies. Which means that your setup will need to properly reproduce all frequencies down to atleast 30hz....20hz preferably.
Remember that part of true sound quality is the ability to reproduce subbass frequencies at realistic output levels.

Personally, I would modify the rear mounting locations some and try to fit atleast some decent excursion 8" subwoofers in there. ID8v3 for example. Reasonable mounting depth, reasonably good output for an 8" subwoofer.
I beleive the Tang Bands will hit 30hz. Also, an 8" sub is too much for me since the car is a lease and I don't want to hack it apart, and I don't want a SW box.

How would one do a system then without a sub for the best possible sound??? The openings are 5X7 for the front doors and the rear C pillars are also 5X7. Keep in mind that I already have the Rainbow SLC230's which are 5.25 comps and a Zed audio Gladius amp (which I was thinking of returning for the Draconia as mentioned above), both recently purchased.

 
I beleive the Tang Bands will hit 30hz.
A tweeter can hit 30hz.

It's a matter of how much output they will have at that frequency.

Given the TB's limited displacement potential....it likely won't be able to produce it with any kind of realistic output levels or authority.

 
That's true, but I have had some systems that pounded pretty good down into the 40hz range using only 4 6.5" woofers. Currently I have 2 DLS 6.5's in my car. My sub is in the garage. The 6.5's don't rattle the windows, but there is a pretty good amount of clean bass output. More than enough for most regular loud listening - unless you listen to bass music, or want your teeth to rattle. It sounds good enough without the sub that I have considered not putting the sub back in because of the weight.

What I have found though is that you need to have a lot of clean power to get good tight bass out of small speakers. I have not used any of the DIY drivers except tweeters. I am happy with the DLS 6.5 bass performance. I was not happy with the Focal bass. The Focal's didn't do much below 80hz in the same basic environment with the same amps, etc.

 
The 6.5's don't rattle the windows, but there is a pretty good amount of clean bass output. More than enough for most regular loud listening - unless you listen to bass music, or want your teeth to rattle. It sounds good enough without the sub.
This is exaclty what I am looking for!

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

medik13

10+ year member
Member
Thread starter
medik13
Joined
Location
Miami, FL
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
9
Views
1,016
Last reply date
Last reply from
medik13
design.jpeg

WNCTracker

    May 22, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_2118.jpeg

WNCTracker

    May 22, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top