valin
10+ year member
The King of the North
Hey guys. I am having system issues. I've done quite a few systems in the past, and am having big problems with my latest system. Here's the gear:
HU: Pioneer AVH-P6800DVD
Comps: MB Quart Premum 6.5" comps, and 5.25" comps
Subs: 2 - Rockford Fosgate Power HX2 12's, dual 2's, wired to 2 ohms - 2.0 cubes after displacement, sealed.
FS Amp: Memphis MC-3004
Sub Amp: Memphis Mojo MC-2000d
Capacitor: 20 farad, also used as a distribution block
Wiring:
0 gauge power from battery to capacitor
0 gauge ground from chassis to capacitor, approx. 2 feet long.
4 gauge power and ground from capacitor to Mojo
8 gauge power and ground from capacitor to MC-3004
This system is 1/2 new, and 1/2 old. I have run everything but the subs and the comps before in my last system, wired with the same. The box is also new. (Last system consisted of two 18" Fi Audio BTL's, in 12.5 cubes at 32 Hz, and Memphis Power Reference comps).
The entire system sounds like crap. I find the mids will distort with moderate power (probably only 30-40 watts), which is quite a bit below the 60 watts RMS, the tweets do not sound clean (currently set to -1.5 db), and are not very bright at all, which I am very surprised at considering most people say the MB Quart tweeters are very harsh. Every channel sounds the same. The the subs have very poor output as well. The box is sealed. The inside is completely covered in resin, and all the internal seams were glassed. It is a downfiring enclosure, and has 2" of clearance from the drivers to the carpeted floor. I had to build the box like this in order to fit it underneath the seats of my Toyota Tundra. I tried raising this up an additional 1", with no change in output. The bottom of the enclosure (face) is open, as you can see in the pictures, so the output can basically go forward and back.
I am also getting a pop when I turn the system off in the components, not in the subs, so it seems the MC-3004 is not powering down softly. There is no engine noise in the system.
One thing I can note is that when I was installing the system, I got lazy and used the remote wires that are with the patch cords to run the remote. They are extremely small, but I wired all 3 together. I don't think this would be a problem, since the amps are powering up.
My lights are also dimming under power, which did not occur in the last system while running this 20 farad capacitor. The capacitor has a voltage readout on it when it gets a remote signal, and is reading proper voltage when under load.
It's driving me crazy. I was thinking about bypassing the capacitor with a distro block to see if there was any change, and also running a bigger remote wire, but I am sure this will not affect anything. What should I do?
You can see the "feet" on the enclosure on each side that keeps the face off the drivers off the floor 2" after full excursion.
HU: Pioneer AVH-P6800DVD
Comps: MB Quart Premum 6.5" comps, and 5.25" comps
Subs: 2 - Rockford Fosgate Power HX2 12's, dual 2's, wired to 2 ohms - 2.0 cubes after displacement, sealed.
FS Amp: Memphis MC-3004
Sub Amp: Memphis Mojo MC-2000d
Capacitor: 20 farad, also used as a distribution block
Wiring:
0 gauge power from battery to capacitor
0 gauge ground from chassis to capacitor, approx. 2 feet long.
4 gauge power and ground from capacitor to Mojo
8 gauge power and ground from capacitor to MC-3004
This system is 1/2 new, and 1/2 old. I have run everything but the subs and the comps before in my last system, wired with the same. The box is also new. (Last system consisted of two 18" Fi Audio BTL's, in 12.5 cubes at 32 Hz, and Memphis Power Reference comps).
The entire system sounds like crap. I find the mids will distort with moderate power (probably only 30-40 watts), which is quite a bit below the 60 watts RMS, the tweets do not sound clean (currently set to -1.5 db), and are not very bright at all, which I am very surprised at considering most people say the MB Quart tweeters are very harsh. Every channel sounds the same. The the subs have very poor output as well. The box is sealed. The inside is completely covered in resin, and all the internal seams were glassed. It is a downfiring enclosure, and has 2" of clearance from the drivers to the carpeted floor. I had to build the box like this in order to fit it underneath the seats of my Toyota Tundra. I tried raising this up an additional 1", with no change in output. The bottom of the enclosure (face) is open, as you can see in the pictures, so the output can basically go forward and back.
I am also getting a pop when I turn the system off in the components, not in the subs, so it seems the MC-3004 is not powering down softly. There is no engine noise in the system.
One thing I can note is that when I was installing the system, I got lazy and used the remote wires that are with the patch cords to run the remote. They are extremely small, but I wired all 3 together. I don't think this would be a problem, since the amps are powering up.
My lights are also dimming under power, which did not occur in the last system while running this 20 farad capacitor. The capacitor has a voltage readout on it when it gets a remote signal, and is reading proper voltage when under load.
It's driving me crazy. I was thinking about bypassing the capacitor with a distro block to see if there was any change, and also running a bigger remote wire, but I am sure this will not affect anything. What should I do?
You can see the "feet" on the enclosure on each side that keeps the face off the drivers off the floor 2" after full excursion.
