Switching to Class A/B for Subs?

[PowerNaudio 10+ year member]

Myth.
There are many quality class D full range amplifiers that are sonically indistinguishable from any other class of amp.

Though full range class D amps aren't many in number for car audio, there are a substantial amount of them for home audio and has been for decades.

the reason i stated that is because a couple of years back they where encountering modulation distortion at high frequencies. thats the only reason i think of Class D as sub duty, my mind still stock in the past.

what amps that are class d in full range. do you recommend.

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

And in these types of situations the "difference in sound" is almost always a result of setup differences and NOT related in any way to the "sound characteristics" of the amp.

Almost always...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Almost always...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I was just trying to be politically correct //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[loud-n-low 10+ year member]

I think my class a/b US amps ax1000 sounds amazing....I have read that alot, NOT ALL class D amps do not have the frequency response that a/b does...in the lowest octave

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

And in these types of situations the "difference in sound" is almost always a result of setup differences and NOT related in any way to the "sound characteristics" of the amp.
People mistakenly believe that just because they started with amp A, then installed amp B and heard a difference, that the difference was a result of the amplifier itself.

But in this case, all I did was pull out the old amp and put the new one in. NOTHING else was change afaik. However It could be I had the Bass boost cranked ont he new amp as it was a while back like 10 years ago when I got into car audio...

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

But in this case, all I did was pull out the old amp and put the new one in.

Exactly! That's all that you did. You did not go through the necessary steps to insure that you were truthfully comparing the amplifiers in any meaningful way.

Infact, your next statement exactly proves my point;

However It could be I had the Bass boost cranked ont he new amp as it was a while back like 10 years ago when I got into car audio...

This is precisely the type of thing I was talking about.

Ofcourse there much more involved in properly comparing amplifiers...but you just provided one such variable that creates bias in the testing...and as such your results (amp A sounded better than amp B) are completely invalidated.

I wasn't referring to the "setup" as the audio system.

 

[00poop6x 10+ year member]

Unless either of them have a very unreasonbly low damping factor (less than ~20)...then DF doesn't matter either.

That is true. Considering the majority of D class barely have any DF, an A/B probably wouldn't even be touched if it had similar DF as D class, unless it had other variables to make up for it.

 

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

Ive got a 2500XXK if you want a " SQ" demo..lol

I think its a/b.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

That is true. Considering the majority of D class barely have any DF, an A/B probably wouldn't even be touched if it had similar DF as D class, unless it had other variables to make up for it.

They have adequate-enough damping.

That's all that matters.

Though on a side note.....some people really enjoy their tube amps primarily due to their lack of damping //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

Ive got a 2500XXK if you want a " SQ" demo..lolI think its a/b.

Yes it is! Thats the amp I'm thinking of getting. Supa are you the guy with the Van that had the TC 15"? I swear I met you... In fact I have heard that it will blow away the XXK1500 simply because it is class A/B...Might take you up on that offer and maybe you could see how shitty my amp /setup is?

The 1500XXK is Class D, and fits better, but I'm thinking the 2500XXK will produce cleaner Bass. I have been informed there is definately a noticable difference from someone who has used BOTH, with no other differences.

So well...I think I'm going to go A/B unless someone else who has tried BOTH can convince me otherwise. Probably need to change my battery and eventualy upgrade the alternator, but that would be a good clean sounding system. The 2500XXK is only 4 ohm stable when bridged though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif where as the class D goes down to 2 ohms and is a monoblock. Should I look into another line of amps DLS are a bit pricy...?

I was either looking to get the DLS A3 and an A6, or the ARC XXK2100 and and the XXK2500. I can probably get the ARC's for a few hundred less..

I'm also considering swapping my AA Assassin, or Loaded Probox for some black cone ARC's or DLS Nobelliums after I recover from the cost of new amps...

 

[xtremebassjunky 10+ year member]

I love my 1100.1...it is nearly 80% efficient...(i think it is around 78 when at full swing)...and I get 1300w with a 140amp max draw... I love the way it sounds but it is a personal opinion...

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

I love my 1100.1...it is nearly 80% efficient...(i think it is around 78 when at full swing)...and I get 1300w with a 140amp max draw... I love the way it sounds but it is a personal opinion...

is it class A/B or D? BTW that amp is way to large to put under my front seat. Prefer 14 inches, 16 inches may be workable with it sticking out a bit and if I build an amprack.

 

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

Yes it is! Thats the amp I'm thinking of getting. Supa are you the guy with the Van that had the TC 15"? I swear I met you... In fact I have heard that it will blow away the XXK1500 simply because it is class A/B...Might take you up on that offer and maybe you could see how shitty my amp /setup is?
The 1500XXK is Class D, and fits better, but I'm thinking the 2500XXK will produce cleaner Bass. I have been informed there is definately a noticable difference from someone who has used BOTH, with no other differences.

So well...I think I'm going to go A/B unless someone else who has tried BOTH can convince me otherwise. Probably need to change my battery and eventualy upgrade the alternator, but that would be a good clean sounding system. The 2500XXK is only 4 ohm stable when bridged though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif where as the class D goes down to 2 ohms and is a monoblock. Should I look into another line of amps DLS are a bit pricy...?

I was either looking to get the DLS A3 and an A6, or the ARC XXK2100 and and the XXK2500. I can probably get the ARC's for a few hundred less..

I'm also considering swapping my AA Assassin, or Loaded Probox for some black cone ARC's or DLS Nobelliums after I recover from the cost of new amps...

Positive you havent met me.

Ive got an 18" tc9, only 1 other person has that sub and he lives 5 min from me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I fired up my 4150 and it works great. I guess my 2500 was part of a bad batch or something.

 

[2kchevy06civic 5,000+ posts]

supa leaves me voicemails at night, lawl.

 

[///M5 10+ year member]

Yes it is! Thats the amp I'm thinking of getting. Supa are you the guy with the Van that had the TC 15"? I swear I met you... In fact I have heard that it will blow away the XXK1500 simply because it is class A/B...Might take you up on that offer and maybe you could see how shitty my amp /setup is?
The 1500XXK is Class D, and fits better, but I'm thinking the 2500XXK will produce cleaner Bass. I have been informed there is definately a noticable difference from someone who has used BOTH, with no other differences.

So well...I think I'm going to go A/B unless someone else who has tried BOTH can convince me otherwise. Probably need to change my battery and eventualy upgrade the alternator, but that would be a good clean sounding system. The 2500XXK is only 4 ohm stable when bridged though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif where as the class D goes down to 2 ohms and is a monoblock. Should I look into another line of amps DLS are a bit pricy...?

I was either looking to get the DLS A3 and an A6, or the ARC XXK2100 and and the XXK2500. I can probably get the ARC's for a few hundred less..

I'm also considering swapping my AA Assassin, or Loaded Probox for some black cone ARC's or DLS Nobelliums after I recover from the cost of new amps...

I've tried both and worrying about this for your substage is stupid, there is NO sound difference on a sub. I guarantee that your system has WAY more holes in other areas that you really need to address that you should spend your money on. For SQ, which is your concern the substage isn't all that meaningful. If you are really into SQ you will be crossing your sub at 50hz and below and having a front stage that can play the rest. As well as I find it completely ridiculous that you have "rear fill" and are worried about the acoustic signature of the class of your amp. Then you did the "big 2" and left out the most important one of the cables, I wonder why you have dimming. If you are really concerned about SQ, take one of your subs throw it away so you have a single driver, get rid of your rear fill, buy a better deck, get some processing, and spend another $300 on deadening. Only at that point would I ever even take your original question partly seriously at the moment it is a joke and a waste of your money. If you think otherwise you are brainwashed by some e-tard and really should evaluate how you spend your money.