Sundown X or Zv3

look the Xv2 needs 2kwThe Zv4 needs 3kw

The z3 (I like them a lot they get LOUD above 35hz) are more punchy they like the same power as the new xv2

The x2 and z3 sound similar with the z being more punchy and better above 40 naturally and uses about 4-4.25 cubes tuned to 35

the x2 is smoother and more mellow down low and uses a slightly smaller lower tuned box unless you outright want killer lowend. 3.75 tuned to 32 for music by music I mean very balanced and a flatter response with lower distortion throughout the bandwidth. the 4.25 tune will give you KILLER lowend and still sound great but will force you to use a slightly lower xover point around 60 hz.

the z4 is a lowend MONSTER. More so than the x2 or z3 but it needs more power and lower tune. it can play very as well up high but it hurts output abit/needs more power and a smaller box to increase bandwidth efficiency.

for music Id do 4 tuned to 32, Want more low-end? 4.25 tuned to 30 and for a SQ setup 3.75 tuned to 28

with good lowend and the best overall sound..

Have you even owned a X,zv3, or zv4? If so lets get some of your install pictures? Or are you just talking out your as$?

 
Have you even owned a X,zv3, or zv4? If so lets get some of your install pictures? Or are you just talking out your as$?
i DESIGN AND BUILD WOOFERS i understand the mass to CMS ratio. QES to FS ratios and how drivers respond in certian boxes. it doesn't matter if I've ever heard of the speaker. the parameters tell me who it is..

we have this **** to a science. its not guess work. just because a driver response one way in your cabin doesn't mean it works in every cabin. the drivers like a cerin amout of air space tuning and port area for a desired response. its that simple. if the drivers don't compliment your cabin its not the drivers fault its yours.

 
where are they selling them for that price?
Id stick to the havocs. honestly you just need a-little more airspace and port area.. and tuning alot lower than FS doesn't benefit the driver much.. you can get much better results with higher QES drivers but tuning alittle below FS but lower QES woofers don't respond well at all..

 
bass if you don't like the alignment i recommend ill send you 50 bucks to build a new one.. let me design you an enclosure..
originally i wanted x's for my trunk build, the 12s though.. oh believe me im gna make these havocs sound good. new box build time

 
i DESIGN AND BUILD WOOFERS i understand the mass to CMS ratio. QES to FS ratios and how drivers respond in certian boxes. it doesn't matter if I've every hear of it. the parameters tell me who it is..we have this **** to a science. its not guess work. just because a driver response one way in your cabin doesn't mean it works in every cabin. the drivers like a cerin amout of air space tuning and port area for a desired response. its that simple. if the drivers don't compliment your cabin its not the drivers fault its yours.

That's what I thought talking out your as$ of products you have NEVER USED YOURSELF.

That's like saying oh I build cars I can read about a car and tell you how it drives by what it says on paper..... No you need to drive the car for yourself... Same goes for a woofer, u need to use the woofer for yourself.

 
That's what I thought talking out your as$ of products you have NEVER USED YOURSELF. That's like saying oh I build cars I can read about a car and tell you how it drives by what it says on paper..... No you need to drive the car for yourself... Same goes for a woofer, u need to use the woofer for yourself.
NO thats why we have parameters. they measure every ASPECT of the driver. the mass and stifness of the spiders the Q electrically and mechanically the FS. its nothing like a car. thats a poor comparison.

i used to just guess about what the drivers need. then i started testing different spiders and how they affect FR and how port area affects the ports Q at tuning an nearly EVER other aspect i could.

they have dumax testing that shows Everything about a speaker.

most people base there claim off a one specific install and cabin. every car is different. you can build a 8 cubed box that sounds great in your car and sounds terrible in another.. you have to model the cabins FR and account for refraction/ loading cancellation FR. its not just about hte box. its matching the wofer and box to the cabin.

 
NO thats why we have parameters. they measure every ASPECT of the driver. the mass and stifness of the spiders the Q electrically and mechanically the FS. its nothing like a car. thats a poor comparison.i used to just guess about what the drivers need. then i started testing different spiders and how they affect FR and how port area affects the ports Q at tuning an nearly EVER other aspect i could.

they have dumax testing that shows Everything about a speaker.

most people base there claim off a one specific install and cabin. every car is different. you can build a 8 cubed box that sounds great in your car and sounds terrible in another.. you have to model the cabins FR and account for refraction/ loading cancellation FR. its not just about hte box. its matching the wofer and box to the cabin.

Know how I know your full of crap... I see you telling people to use the nsv3 but in your theory it's because you read the specs on the woofer? That's funny because the specs arnt posted as Jacob said he's never pulls the t/s on the woofer and posted them... So how are you suggesting a woofer that you never used and don't have specs on?

 
originally i wanted x's for my trunk build, the 12s though.. oh believe me im gna make these havocs sound good. new box build time
the CMS is .075mm/N and QE is .49 vas is 155. and MMS is right at 330 grams. mechanically its well control electrically is has enough motor strength to be efficent in small higher tuned boxes with out much power compression(meaning it will fair good on the meter) and the mass is definitely on the lower side(i like this design ALOT i must say)

7.25 to 8.5 depending on power port area tune and desired FR. the spiders are pretty dang stiff not 9515 stiff but it can definitely take advantage of the larger boxes for killer efficiency..

if you just want it loud as **** down low go 17 with 200in^2 tuned to 28 if you want it to get low and still be punchy up top do 15 tuned to 30..

 
Know how I know your full of crap... I see you telling people to use the nsv3 but in your theory it's because you read the specs on the woofer? That's funny because the specs arnt posted as Jacob said he's never pulls the t/s on the woofer and posted them... So how are you suggesting a woofer that you never used and don't have specs on?
i see how jacob designs his woofers. i understand his theories. he has a trend through his drivers design. i maybe wrong but Im pretty sure i know how he designed the NS and TEAM.. massive i started building boxes at 13 i started reconing woofer around 16 and started building woofers at 22..

 
i see how jacob designs his woofers. i understand his theories. he has a trend through his drivers design. i maybe wrong but Im pretty sure i know how he designed the NS and TEAM.. massive i started building boxes at 13 i started reconing woofer around 16 and started building woofers at 22..

Do you want a cookie? U act like your the only one who can build a box, recone a woofer,build a woofer. No one cares your not special. You run your mouth around here and have NOTHING to back it up. Oh I built a woofer. The woofers on your photo bucket are crap!

 

What so special about this woofer?



Why is there so much mechanical noise on this video? Woofer sounds horrible
nothing special 3" coil, shorting ring in the magnet ID 18mm topplate standard 8" medium stiffness progressive spiders. there is no mechanical noise until about 32 mm where its the KMS based distortion. thats at 19 with 1500 on it.. it held up very nicely.. thats well beyond its rated 26mm xmax thats appraching 35 mm

 
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