Subwoofer Recommendation

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JustinStone

aspiring nutrient
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Florida
I know I have at least 7cuft to work with - enclosure wise.

The enclosure width plan I'm working with allows for two 15"s, and that's what I'll go with.

The amplifiers I plan on running for each, are both DD DM1000a's at 1ohm. (1000 watt cont., 1500 watt dynamic)
Partial to Sundown, DD Redline series, and Skar.. Although I am aware of skar's reputation, I don't have much patience to save up $600 for a sub..

With that said, I'm looking for at most $400 per sub, and if the price can be 100 lower, that is prefered.

I'm looking to upgrade from my hand-me-down system, but I know I will not compete seriously. So my goal for the moment is to create a "wow factor" when passengers enter a Pt Cruiser, but also keep from tearing my wallet in half. I plan on using the amp's full wattage only for a couple of minutes for demonstration purposes, but for daily use I'll keep the level low as to not overpower two 3.5's, two 6.5's, and two 6x9's.
Thank you ahead of time.
 
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Your electrical requirements don't change regardless of how often you run your system full-tilt, so let that dictate the rest of your system.
 
Your electrical requirements don't change regardless of how often you run your system full-tilt, so let that dictate the rest of your system.
I'm saying I wont play the woofer at full power for too long in that section, meaning I'm not looking for a sub in that range that can take a beating.
 
I'm saying I wont play the woofer at full power for too long in that section, meaning I'm not looking for a sub in that range that can take a beating.
I caught that. My point is that you have to have your electricity capacity built for the maximum strain you ever plan on placing on it. The most important sentence in your first post was about "using the amp's full wattage". Do you want a system that you can use constantly, or a system that can impress people?
 
I caught that. My point is that you have to have your electricity capacity built for the maximum strain you ever plan on placing on it. The most important sentence in your first post was about "using the amp's full wattage". Do you want a system that you can use constantly, or a system that can impress people?
Agreed 100%. PT Cruisers don't have gigantic alternators + the voltage is computer controlled. Just as an example you don't want to buy subs that can take 1000 watts each and pair them with strong amplifiers and then reality kicks in and your car is barely giving each one of them 400 watts each + your voltages even with no load is barely touching 13volts.

What you want the amps full wattage to be versus what it will actually be are 2 different things, thus conflicting the build. JT's point was you want to plan around realistic capacity

Luckily even if you don't plan on dropping big money on electrical you have space/cone area going for you so it really shouldn't be hard to get loud.
 
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Agreed 100%. PT Cruisers don't have gigantic alternators + the voltage is computer controlled. Just as an example you don't want to buy subs that can take 1000 watts each and pair them with strong amplifiers and then reality kicks in and your car is barely giving each one of them 400 watts each + your voltages even with no load is barely touching 13volts

Luckily even if you don't plan on dropping big money on electrical you have space/cone area going for you so it really shouldn't be hard to get loud.
I caught that. My point is that you have to have your electricity capacity built for the maximum strain you ever plan on placing on it. The most important sentence in your first post was about "using the amp's full wattage". Do you want a system that you can use constantly, or a system that can impress people?
Using a 240amp performance alternator; I don't exactly have concerns regarding amp draw.
 
Max amps musical is 90 amps per the Dd site. So 180 + 40 for your mids/highs amps your at 220. For continuous musical you won’t likely be anywhere near that so you should be good with that 240 alt so long as you figure out The regulator thing.

With rise you will be closer to 500-600 watts even if you are wired to one ohm. You won’t have the amplifier power for a $300 spl oriented sub
have you checked out the sundown e-15’s?
Priced under 200 per, ask for 500 watts rms, and you’d need right around 7 cubes AFTER displacement for a pair
 
I know I have at least 7cuft to work with - enclosure wise.

The enclosure width plan I'm working with allows for two 15"s, and that's what I'll go with.

The amplifiers I plan on running for each, are both DD DM1000a's at 1ohm. (1000 watt cont., 1500 watt dynamic)
Partial to Sundown, DD Redline series, and Skar.. Although I am aware of skar's reputation, I don't have much patience to save up $600 for a sub..

With that said, I'm looking for at most $400 per sub, and if the price can be 100 lower, that is prefered.

I'm looking to upgrade from my hand-me-down system, but I know I will not compete seriously. So my goal for the moment is to create a "wow factor" when passengers enter a Pt Cruiser, but also keep from tearing my wallet in half. I plan on using the amp's full wattage only for a couple of minutes for demonstration purposes, but for daily use I'll keep the level low as to not overpower two 3.5's, two 6.5's, and two 6x9's.
Thank you ahead of time.

How much are those DD Redline 15's? You can probably get something equivalent without paying for the DD name.
 
Max amps musical is 90 amps per the Dd site. So 180 + 40 for your mids/highs amps your at 220. For continuous musical you won’t likely be anywhere near that so you should be good with that 240 alt so long as you figure out The regulator thing.

With rise you will be closer to 500-600 watts even if you are wired to one ohm. You won’t have the amplifier power for a $300 spl oriented sub
have you checked out the sundown e-15’s?
Priced under 200 per, ask for 500 watts rms, and you’d need right around 7 cubes AFTER displacement for a pair
You caught the part where I said.. 2x's DM1000a's correct?
 
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