Subwoofer Getting Smelly After about 10 mins of playing

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Ya do it! Those auto parts stores batteries have gone up in price....it's ridiculous. Costco has a huge variety of Interstate batteries to choose from, all new and with warranty. They range from 100-280 here. Just the names on them are a big turn off, Duralast, Super start economy, etc...

I just got lucky and got two new Orileys AGMs replaced under warranty/FREE about a month ago actually..LOL But I did see that the CA on the new ones went down quite a bit, and the price jumped from $139 up close to $180 for less CA..less CCA, Res @120. I need to renew my Costco card. been out for two months now,i usually get fuel there as well.Ill deff go take a look at them.im going to need a larger batt for the HHR soon.. maybe two if i can squeeze them:laugh:

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I just got lucky and got two new Orileys AGMs replaced under warranty/FREE about a month ago actually..LOL But I did see that the CA on the new ones went down quite a bit, and the price jumped from $139 up close to $180 for less CA..less CCA, Res @120. I need to renew my Costco card. been out for two months now,i usually get fuel there as well.Ill deff go take a look at them.im going to need a larger batt for the HHR soon.. maybe two if i can squeeze them:laugh:

My wife gets gas there too...it's cheaper than any other branded gas stations. But don't know how good it is comparable. Your avatar, is that your amp collection?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

My wife gets gas there too...it's cheaper than any other branded gas stations. But don't know how good it is comparable. Your avatar, is that your amp collection?

Most Deff on Gas Wars!! Place to Go or Kroger believe it or not.My Avatar.. No sir.. just a few I have been using for a bit.Work great,happy with the performance for the daily thus far for a couple years.rebuilding this summer for sure.may do a small system in my HHR..Single 12 XFL and components up front and coax in rears.Mean 99 on sub, Mean 66hc on front and Mean 44 on rears

 

[frenziedhstge]

So my sub just blew out the tiny 1.6cuft box I've had issues with the this box for a couple years and repaired it over again since I didn't have much power in the box back then. but the power of the psi platform blew the box out like literally the woofer fell out. So my question to you guys is I have a box design for a Orion HCCA 12" it's a 2.8cuft box tuned to 35hz, however psi recommends running 1.6cuft-2.5cuft. Would it be that big of an issue to run a 12" in a 2.8cuft when the biggest recommended is 2.5cuft?

 

[shredder2]

Why don't you get a box designed for your specific driver, vehicle, power and listening tastes?

Somebody could probably help ya' out if you listed those things.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So my sub just blew out the tiny 1.6cuft box I've had issues with the this box for a couple years and repaired it over again since I didn't have much power in the box back then. but the power of the psi platform blew the box out like literally the woofer fell out. So my question to you guys is I have a box design for a Orion HCCA 12" it's a 2.8cuft box tuned to 35hz, however psi recommends running 1.6cuft-2.5cuft. Would it be that big of an issue to run a 12" in a 2.8cuft when the biggest recommended is 2.5cuft?

this isnt the 80s, you dont just shove subs in random boxes hoping it sounds good. There's a proper process to designing an enclosure that works with the sub's ts specs along with your input power, cabin gain and musical preferences. You NEVER skimp out on the enclosure, it just turns your whole subwoofer setup into garbage if you do.

Also a proper box is not as simple as oh a generic 2.5 cubic feet tuned to 34hz... your port area has to be on point, your port loading has to be on point and your tuning has to match your listening preference along with cabin gain so literally you need to rewrite your whole understanding of how enclosures work.

 

[frenziedhstge]

this isnt the 80s, you dont just shove subs in random boxes hoping it sounds good. There's a proper process to designing an enclosure that works with the sub's ts specs along with your input power, cabin gain and musical preferences. You NEVER skimp out on the enclosure, it just turns your whole subwoofer setup into garbage if you do.
Also a proper box is not as simple as oh a generic 2.5 cubic feet tuned to 34hz... your port area has to be on point, your port loading has to be on point and your tuning has to match your listening preference along with cabin gain so literally you need to rewrite your whole understanding of how enclosures work.

I understand the enclosure is the most important part of the box. I already have a box designer designing a proper box for the sub I am using. I just had a blue print of a orion HCCA 12 laying around thats why I asked. I also know that there's more that goes into a enclosure then just cuft and a tuning frequency, hence the reason I'm not designing the sub box and I'm having someone else do it.

 

[frenziedhstge]

Why don't you get a box designed for your specific driver, vehicle, power and listening tastes?
Somebody could probably help ya' out if you listed those things.

I am having a box designed professionally for my specific driver. I was just thinking of a temp solution so I could still have bass in the mean time haha. However I'm just gonna wait for the box design to be sent over to not have to go through the hassle of wasting wood and building two boxes.

 

[shredder2]

Thats a pretty picky box to design... decent port area and pretty long length just to get a lower tune in a smallish box... I had fun doin this one...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rage.gif.0ad8a6e5565b5fddce406566fdd05149.gif

Love that quote above in post 52...

I understand the enclosure is the most important part of the box.

I always thought they were the same... sorry, just playin'

 

[bigpoppahump]

I had pretty close to the same set up. 2500.1dz on a stock 90amp alt @2ohms on a single hdc3.1 12 with a bosch agm under the hood. Set the gain with dd-1 and marked where -5 and -10 were on my volume knob, I mostly play rebassed and hip hop at -10 for 30min 2-4 times a day and can barely warm the sub up. The only difference is I built the box sq recommended. So yeah, +1 for box!

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I am having a box designed professionally for my specific driver. I was just thinking of a temp solution so I could still have bass in the mean time haha. However I'm just gonna wait for the box design to be sent over to not have to go through the hassle of wasting wood and building two boxes.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[frenziedhstge]

Thats a pretty picky box to design... decent port area and pretty long length just to get a lower tune in a smallish box... I had fun doin this one...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rage.gif.0ad8a6e5565b5fddce406566fdd05149.gif

Love that quote above in post 52...

I understand the enclosure is the most important part of the box.

I always thought they were the same... sorry, just playin'

What software did you use to create that? Yes That quote early was a stupid mistake on my part lololol. I have bass box pro, the reason I'm not designing my own enclosure is I'm busy with work all the time so I just paid someone to design it.

 

[shredder2]

Winisd/Torres and ol' fashioned calculator... it's ported for that 2500 watter at 1 ohm btw. I see no reason to build the box for less power unless you're really limited on space.

That sub looks pretty capable... I'd put the power to it and be grinnin if it was mine btw.