Subwoofer Getting Smelly After about 10 mins of playing

Couple of things... 1: What is your electrical like? If your running ***** electrical you could be clipping and not even be sending 1800W RMS to your sub. 2. Orion 2500.1Ds have been tested closer to 2500W@ 2 ohm and over 3K @ 1 ohm.. So with impedance rise you could still be sending over 2K or more to your sub... Depending on input voltage to the amp of course.
Stock electrical unfortunately I hit up irragi and they don't make alts for my car and no other company does either so I'm planning on upgrading electrical to at least one xs power xp2500 batt to at least compensate for the power I'm also waiting for wire in the mail to do do a BIG 3.

 
You are WELL Beyond clipping my friend.
I agree with Jeff, setting the gain at -10db is used because the assumption is you won't go to the max undistorted level on the volume (In other words your highs will be either ear bleeding loud or distorted by that point if on deck power). If you listen to music with the volume at 37 out of 40, you need to use the 0 db track at 37 out of 40. Combined with bad electrical you a clipping like a MOFO.

 
Sorry to break this to you but the DD-1 is for noobs that think they are legit because they overpaid for a useless tool and a test tone that they could have just downloaded online instead of a CD and could have just bought an oscilloscope that does WAY more than just monitoring if you have distortion in your signal for way less than a DD-1. Not trying to be a d*ck by any means, just telling it like it is.

You also need to learn the relation of bass levels in the recording and how it directly affects your head unit's pre-out voltage which directly affects your amplifier power output and overall signal. Setting the gain and then leaving the volume at 38 out of 40 for every song you play is a one stop trip to clip city and blown equipment. Thats the worse way to set thing and run your setup.

Some music will have -7 db recording levels which already puts you past clipping, some will have -1 db levels of bass which will massively clip you. While some will have -15 db levels of bass where the song feels really weak. Thats why relying on a test tone to set gains for music is utterly and completely useless.

At least now you have a reference point where you stink up the subs, back down the gain or sub level until it doesn't stink or overheat your coil or amp. REMEMBER how loud that point is and now with each song you play you can adjust the sub level accordingly to match that level of output which is your ideal clean point.

Temperature, and knowing how loud your max clean output is via testing and adjusting everything accordingly per song played is called active gain setting which is what all the pros do. I'd advise you to download audacity, use the spectrum analyzer and see the recording levels of bass in several of your songs to get a feel of what you should actually be shooting for.

MaCIdU.jpg


Njfptd.jpg


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ shows -3 db at 36hz which means if I set the gain with a -10 db tone, I'll be clipping by 7 dbs worth which equates to quite a few clicks to my sub level. However if I set it with a 0 db test tone, i'll be losing out on -3 dbs worth of output. which is a notch or two down on the sub level. Literally proof of why setting gains with test tones is utterly beyond useless.

Gear Temperature is important because 1: heat is what kills your subs and amps. 2: clipping causes heat. 3: you can be overheating because of other issues even though you arent clipping which will still kill your equipment.

 
You don't set gains on -10db tone or run an xtr 2500 on stock electrical.
As far as tuning I was just following based on what others have done with their DD-1 I'm glad to know -10db is a no go. as far as stock electrical I have no option beside to do a big 3 and a XS power XP2500 as no company makes a highout alt for my car.

 

---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 AM ----------

 

Sorry to break this to you but the DD-1 is for noobs that think they are legit because they overpaid for a useless tool and a test tone that they could have just downloaded online instead of a CD and could have just bought an oscilloscope that does WAY more than just monitoring if you have distortion in your signal for way less than a DD-1. Not trying to be a d*ck by any means, just telling it like it is.
You also need to learn the relation of bass levels in the recording and how it directly affects your head unit's pre-out voltage which directly affects your amplifier power output and overall signal. Setting the gain and then leaving the volume at 38 out of 40 for every song you play is a one stop trip to clip city and blown equipment. Thats the worse way to set thing and run your setup.

Some music will have -7 db recording levels which already puts you past clipping, some will have -1 db levels of bass which will massively clip you. While some will have -15 db levels of bass where the song feels really weak. Thats why relying on a test tone to set gains for music is utterly and completely useless.

At least now you have a reference point where you stink up the subs, back down the gain or sub level until it doesn't stink or overheat your coil or amp. REMEMBER how loud that point is and now with each song you play you can adjust the sub level accordingly to match that level of output which is your ideal clean point.

Temperature, and knowing how loud your max clean output is via testing and adjusting everything accordingly per song played is called active gain setting which is what all the pros do. I'd advise you to download audacity, use the spectrum analyzer and see the recording levels of bass in several of your songs to get a feel of what you should actually be shooting for.

MaCIdU.jpg


Njfptd.jpg


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ shows -3 db at 36hz which means if I set the gain with a -10 db tone, I'll be clipping by 7 dbs worth which equates to quite a few clicks to my sub level. However if I set it with a 0 db test tone, i'll be losing out on -3 dbs worth of output. which is a notch or two down on the sub level. Literally proof of why setting gains with test tones is utterly beyond useless.

Gear Temperature is important because 1: heat is what kills your subs and amps. 2: clipping causes heat. 3: you can be overheating because of other issues even though you arent clipping which will still kill your equipment.
Thanks for the useful information it was very helpful.

 
As far as tuning I was just following based on what others have done with their DD-1 I'm glad to know -10db is a no go. as far as stock electrical I have no option beside to do a big 3 and a XS power XP2500 as no company makes a highout alt for my car.
Get a 40 ah lithium from jy power or limitless instead. It'll be the cost of getting an alt and battery but will give better results.

 
What O Scope do you have? I bought the DD-1 about 5 years ago cuz I didn't want to spend the $400 on the scope plus 440, but now that I'm getting into bigger systems a Oscope seems more appealing each day.
dso nano pocket oscopes were 60 bucks back then... now they are 80 bucks. There's a learning curve but lots of tutorials around. It does so much more than showing distortion.

 
easiest thing to do right now is lower gain and maybe keep hu at 35 until u get another box, big 3 and a 2nd battery
Think I'm getting on the right track now lol. I ordered some 0 gauge wire for big 3 I ordered a box design from a box builder, to get this 12" psi platform 2 out of the tiny 1.6cuft box. I'm planning on going with 2.5cuft box ported tuned @35hz now I just need to save for a good second batt, but in the mean time I will be turning the gains down.

 
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