Popwarhomie
Deiimos
CarAudio.com Veteran
Yes, new amp, or have that one repaired. Bad output transistor(s) often cause it, but could be a driver issue, possibly other things, like vibration damage. That amp is bad though and will kill voice coils so don't hook any speakers up to it until it's fixed.
Test the other amp and make sure you can set the AC voltage with a test tone before trying it on subs in case that one has problems too.
If no warranty and you opt for a new amp, list that blown one on ebay for parts / repair, someone will probably buy it to repair and you can recoup a small amount. Not much, but perhaps better than nothing.
If you were to attempt repairing it (not recommended unless you really want to for fun), sign up over at diyaudio and maybe someone in the car audio section will try to walk you through tests / repair, but might end up wasting more money trying to do it yourself. If warranty, just try to swap it out.
Car Audio
Also don't be surprised if that pair of subs that seen the DC voltage from that amp don't last as long as the other pair, that created a lot of heat in those coils.
hispls
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
If you are aiming to just run the two amps separately and gain match you would do better to run each amp to one coil of each sub all in parallel. Once you get two working amps you can gain match easily by running one out of phase (at lower power) and just dial in gains until there is little or no sound. Or if they have some sort of master/slave switch triple check the manual to make sure nothing unusual is required and do confirm that the output voltage matches within 5% or so before trying to run them all in the same airspace.
Possibly, it'll certainly need repair. Might contact Kicker directly, in the past they've just done board swaps for a reasonable price when you return a broken amp. Cost of re-board direct from Kicker may be cheaper than bench rate from a repair shop.
- Thread Starter
- #19
hispls
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Because gain matching 1 amp per 2 subs will be extremely difficult compared to each driving one coil of each sub.
Louisiana_CRX
5,000+ posts
dem shoes......
I havent read but bits and pieces of this ..but a sub will work using 1 half a DVC just fine actually but you will loose half the subs RMS rating .....
- Thread Starter
- #22
so the amp to putting out dc voltage to the subs and im sending it to kicker for repair today. Thanks for your help!
- Thread Starter
- #23
So i got a refurbished amplifier back from kicker and when i hooked it up i checked for dc voltage at the speaker terminals and i am getting 56 volts of DC on the replacement amplifier...
Now the amplifier next to it works perfectly and is wired exactly the same... Am i unlucky enough to get a refurbished amp with the same symptoms as the amp i sent in?
I checked the s/n and it in not the amp i sent in for repair.. The referb is actually showing the 56v dc even when the amp is off. Anything i could be missing here?
Now the amplifier next to it works perfectly and is wired exactly the same... Am i unlucky enough to get a refurbished amp with the same symptoms as the amp i sent in?
I checked the s/n and it in not the amp i sent in for repair.. The referb is actually showing the 56v dc even when the amp is off. Anything i could be missing here?
Since we're on this subject. Sorry for a rethread but man i blew my 10" sub because i feel i had some exposed speaker wires that touched together(+,-) and caused a short or something but when i press down on the sub. I get the scratching =[ it sounds real nasty. And because i still have it in the box when the 10" sub survivor hits. The air passes through the burnt one and has me scared thinking its now happening to the other.
Attachments
Uhm what do you mean connecting power? (Didn't have black 8AWG)
Attachments
Deiimos
CarAudio.com Veteran
That is peculiar, I would contact Kicker immediately on it and have them run through any tests, that way they can't say you sat on it for months and damaged it yourself, and remind them you have a working one installed next to it. I know I suggested it before, but you could also post over a diyaudio (link below) as there is a Kicker amp technician that helps in the car audio section when he is able to, along with other highly skilled amplifier / electronics techs.
Car Audio
I once sent a security camera in as it was not working properly (under warranty), would freeze / need unplugged constantly, and or would end up with a weird colored picture on the screen. Anyway, the replacement did nearly the same thing, was useless as a security camera. I say that to say there is a chance you got a bad refurb amp.
Deiimos
CarAudio.com Veteran
I was referring to what the OP said, he accidentally reversed the polarity of the amp, meaning wired it backwards, which is never good to do. Accidents happen sometimes.
Would this mean the sub is out of commission? (Scratching when pushing on the speaker) or can i run it still?
We dont like to cook our coils? Damn was hoping i could save it
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Similar threads
- Started by Nelly762
- General Car Audio 2
- Started by Jeremy Sanders
- Subwoofers
About this thread
