Subs burning???

Ok everything disconnected and amps powered up and one amp shows 43V DC at the speaker outputs. So do i need a new amp?
Yes, new amp, or have that one repaired. Bad output transistor(s) often cause it, but could be a driver issue, possibly other things, like vibration damage. That amp is bad though and will kill voice coils so don't hook any speakers up to it until it's fixed.

Test the other amp and make sure you can set the AC voltage with a test tone before trying it on subs in case that one has problems too.

If no warranty and you opt for a new amp, list that blown one on ebay for parts / repair, someone will probably buy it to repair and you can recoup a small amount. Not much, but perhaps better than nothing.

If you were to attempt repairing it (not recommended unless you really want to for fun), sign up over at diyaudio and maybe someone in the car audio section will try to walk you through tests / repair, but might end up wasting more money trying to do it yourself. If warranty, just try to swap it out.


Also don't be surprised if that pair of subs that seen the DC voltage from that amp don't last as long as the other pair, that created a lot of heat in those coils.
 
The amplifiers aren't really strapped as I understand strapping an amplifier.. Please correct me if im wrong cause im ignorant of what strapping amps really is? ...it's more like the signal is split from the rcas to two individual amplifiers and each amplifier runs two subs and you match the gains between the amplifiers so all four subs see the same output voltage.
If you are aiming to just run the two amps separately and gain match you would do better to run each amp to one coil of each sub all in parallel. Once you get two working amps you can gain match easily by running one out of phase (at lower power) and just dial in gains until there is little or no sound. Or if they have some sort of master/slave switch triple check the manual to make sure nothing unusual is required and do confirm that the output voltage matches within 5% or so before trying to run them all in the same airspace.
one amp shows 43V DC at the speaker outputs. So do i need a new amp?
Possibly, it'll certainly need repair. Might contact Kicker directly, in the past they've just done board swaps for a reasonable price when you return a broken amp. Cost of re-board direct from Kicker may be cheaper than bench rate from a repair shop.
 
What are the advantages to wiring as you are suggesting over how i was planning? No offense but it seems more complex?
I think i will try kicker first. Thanks!
 

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So i got a refurbished amplifier back from kicker and when i hooked it up i checked for dc voltage at the speaker terminals and i am getting 56 volts of DC on the replacement amplifier...
Now the amplifier next to it works perfectly and is wired exactly the same... Am i unlucky enough to get a refurbished amp with the same symptoms as the amp i sent in?
I checked the s/n and it in not the amp i sent in for repair.. The referb is actually showing the 56v dc even when the amp is off. Anything i could be missing here?
 
Push down easily on each sub and see if you feel any resistance / and or feel any scratching. Pics would be nice. What subs do you have and what amplifier/amplifiers?
Since we're on this subject. Sorry for a rethread but man i blew my 10" sub because i feel i had some exposed speaker wires that touched together(+,-) and caused a short or something but when i press down on the sub. I get the scratching =[ it sounds real nasty. And because i still have it in the box when the 10" sub survivor hits. The air passes through the burnt one and has me scared thinking its now happening to the other.
 

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So i got a refurbished amplifier back from kicker and when i hooked it up i checked for dc voltage at the speaker terminals and i am getting 56 volts of DC on the replacement amplifier...
Now the amplifier next to it works perfectly and is wired exactly the same... Am i unlucky enough to get a refurbished amp with the same symptoms as the amp i sent in?
I checked the s/n and it in not the amp i sent in for repair.. The referb is actually showing the 56v dc even when the amp is off. Anything i could be missing here?
That is peculiar, I would contact Kicker immediately on it and have them run through any tests, that way they can't say you sat on it for months and damaged it yourself, and remind them you have a working one installed next to it. I know I suggested it before, but you could also post over a diyaudio (link below) as there is a Kicker amp technician that helps in the car audio section when he is able to, along with other highly skilled amplifier / electronics techs.



I once sent a security camera in as it was not working properly (under warranty), would freeze / need unplugged constantly, and or would end up with a weird colored picture on the screen. Anyway, the replacement did nearly the same thing, was useless as a security camera. I say that to say there is a chance you got a bad refurb amp.
 
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