great. i'll try that out tomorrow and see what happens. thanks for your help bro.that would be 4 ohms per channel. Perfectly safe.And you can see if powering all the coils is going to help or not
do that and realize, that the majority of people who will view this thread are not in the competition arena, and will not be feeding a 1000wrms sub 12000 watts....what you say may be true in spl comp, but you still have not proven the point of non-linear movement. and the fact still stands that a 400wrms dvc sub can take 200wrms per coil.Alot of companies make a dual coil sub and a single coil sub so you have options. The options you have are 2 ohm or 8 ohm.
Ever see thiele small parameters of a sub?
Well on a dual coil sub they are measured and adjusted for both coils playing. These characteristics can drastically change when using only one coil. Just the fact that you are not using the subs full potential should want you to use both coils
If anyone has any doubts, do a little experiment to see with your own eyes. Take a dual 4 ohm sub, wire 200 watts @ 4ohm to one coil. Measure SPL, or even measure cone travel.
Then wire both coils each to 100w @ 4 ohms so you have a total of 200w but both coils are playing. Now measure SPL and cone travel. I will garuntee with both coils powered, you will have more cone travel and a higher SPL.
In the SPL competition arena there have been many times with myself and with other competitors that we will have the amps on one of our coils not turned on and it blows the sub. So when you have 2 coils and 12,000 watts wired to each coil. One of those coils not moving essentially weighs the cone down and restricts movement. This causes more stress than if the total 24,000 watts were playing.
I can do an experiment and take a video this coming weekend and post it on here.
yes sir i do...u have a link to another thread to save my time?
the similarities are hilarious
followed immediately by this thread...the similarities are hilarious
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.giffollowed immediately by this thread...
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=307775
what a tool
when you bridge this amp to two channels, the amp refers it to "amp1", and "amp2". So you see there are two RCA inputs "amp1" and "amp2". I put in my left RCA to the left in "Amp1" (because amp1 is going to my left sub) and vica versa.I don't know how that specific kicker works, but I think you need an rca splitter....
but I think you still need both rca's for each amp....try moving both rca's to one amp and see if that sub works correctlywhen you bridge this amp to two channels, the amp refers it to "amp1", and "amp2". So you see there are two RCA inputs "amp1" and "amp2". I put in my left RCA to the left in "Amp1" (because amp1 is going to my left sub) and vica versa.
did that earlier too, forgot to mention it. this shit's a nightmare... worse thing is there isn't any local car audio shops so i'm gonna have to take it to circuit city install bay to get the amp and subs tested (if they even do that) and half the time those ****s don't know what they're doing, and they charge out the ***!but I think you still need both rca's for each amp....try moving both rca's to one amp and see if that sub works correctly
If you have a friend with an aftermarket hu, try running rca from that hu to your amp and redo all your testing to rule out the hudid that earlier too, forgot to mention it. this shit's a nightmare... worse thing is there isn't any local car audio shops so i'm gonna have to take it to circuit city install bay to get the amp and subs tested (if they even do that) and half the time those ****s don't know what they're doing, and they charge out the ***!