Sub recommendation needed for amp

BlackHawk99
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Hi. I have a Rockford Fosgate Power T600-4 amp. This is a 100x4 channel amp. It's running Focal 165 VB components up front. The other two channels are bridged (300 watts) to run a sub or two. The "birth sheet" for the amp claims it's doing 390 watts bridged. The enclosure will go in the trunk of my Toyota Camry. Because my local selection is limited I am looking at JL Audio and Rockford subs. What sub or subs would you recommend for me? I've had sealed boxes in the past which I like very much, but I'm not sure with my current amp this will satisfy me. I may have to sacrifice some sound quality and go with a ported enclosure to get an adequate sound level from my amp? I am thinking of (1) 12 or possibly (2) 10's. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Thank you for the reply. I really appreciate it. I've always been told and read that a ported enclosure done right will be good, but when compared to an equal sealed enclosure the ported one will not have the sound quality of the sealed enclosure and it won't play as low. It drops off fast where it is ported/tuned? I take it you disagree?

I am stuck with these two brands. I am sorry. I can't deal with blown subs, ending back, and waiting ever again. I did that twice and will not deal with it. With the two brands I mentioned I can get a quick local replacement with no issues. That is a big factor to me. I wish I had more of a selection, but that is not the case. Then again I just remembered I can get Boston Acoustic subs in another town, but the installer there prefers... Alpine. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

So, what do you recommend?

 
Yes a ported box will slop off after its tuning point but thats what they are supposed to do... If you build it to specs it should cover most all of the range very well... I personally would read around here to see if any of the brands catch your eye...

 
Thank you. Thing is ... they need to catch my ear and that can't be done here as you know. It's too bad I am limited to local selection, but that's the situation. I just don't want to deal with mail order again. Not unless I could listen to it locally and then get it much cheaper online. What really stinks is even local... they don't have sub demos outside of loaded JL or Rockford enclosures.

 
Thank you. Thing is ... they need to catch my ear and that can't be done here as you know. It's too bad I am limited to local selection, but that's the situation. I just don't want to deal with mail order again. Not unless I could listen to it locally and then get it much cheaper online. What really stinks is even local... they don't have sub demos outside of loaded JL or Rockford enclosures.

Its called research!!! This will give you all the info u need on what and what not to do and save yourself alot of money in the process.. Google.. Not a single thing in my car did I hear of until the day I installed it. But I knew what to buy so I knew the outcome all just by doing research.

 
I understand wanting to buy local man. That said, JL w3s are nice and have been used in SQ cars before. JL just makes some darn nice subs despite what ppl say....Boston acoustics makes nice subs as well,the G2 or G3 would fit u well or maybe 2 G1s.... the new alpine Type Rs are getting GREAT reviews in the SQ world better than alot of BS sub recommendations youll get online and they always have been able to get loud.

I'd go w3 or alpine type R of your local choices.

 
Don't limit yourself to those two companies. I would never buy a RF sub and would only buy a W6 from JL if it was on major sale. Sometimes you have to take a chance on something new. SSA Dcon are cheap and get loud with some SQ. Skar ivx is also a decent choice.

 
Its called research!!! This will give you all the info u need on what and what not to do and save yourself alot of money in the process.. Google.. Not a single thing in my car did I hear of until the day I installed it. But I knew what to buy so I knew the outcome all just by doing research.
I think it's great to do research, get opinions, and ideas, (and that is what I am doing as you can see) but I think that is only part if it. Different strokes for different folks... What sounds good to you may or may not sound good to me or the next guy/gal. Listen to something else in person and you may like it even better. I've heard many say XYZ tweeter is too bright and I thought it was right on once I heard it in person. If I had gone on research and opinion alone I would have missed something I liked. I've picked something based on research and opinions before only to be disappointed. Then I was faced with the task of selling it which is no fun.

 
If you blow a sub its your fault. Warrenties dont cover it.
Actually blowing a sub isn't always user fault. There are these things called defects and unforeseen factors that come in to play in some cases. In my situation the item in question was recommend for my situation by the manufacturer and installer. Unfortunately it didn't work out as planned. I'm not one to push things in to distortion to have damage done either. Despite what you say about the warranty in my situation it was covered... twice. For that I am grateful, but it's time to find something else. This is one reason why I was considering JL Audio. Their "cheap" 10" W0v2 300 watt RMS sub handled things much better than a more expensive sub that I tried. It handled the power, played louder, deeper, and better. As mentioned previously in this thread I also like the fact that if something does go wrong I can get a quick local replacement. Can I do that with many of the subs I see recommended? Nope. I also believe that many of the mainstream brands get a bad rap. Some people that tend to knock them do so simply because they are a big name, have been around a long time, and they feel that getting something else has to be better.

 
Don't limit yourself to those two companies. I would never buy a RF sub and would only buy a W6 from JL if it was on major sale. Sometimes you have to take a chance on something new. SSA Dcon are cheap and get loud with some SQ. Skar ivx is also a decent choice.
SSA Dcon...

Interesting... the cone material and finish looks like that of a 90's Rockford series 1 sub not that there's anything wrong with that. If I get a SSA Dcon and don't like it I can get a refund or am I stuck with it? Do I pay shipping back? If there is a defect or it blows under normal conditions how is that handled? Did I read that Skar is having some issues with one of their lines?

 
Guys/ Gals,

I think my main goal was to hopefully get people to recommend a sub or maybe 2 for my amp situation. My amp is a Rockford Power T600-4 that is powering Focal 165 VB components up front (100 watts x 2) and the other two channels are bridged to 300 watts at 4 ohm to power a sub or two. The Rockford "birth sheet" claims the amp is doing 390 watts at 4 ohm bridged. As for the subs... whether you think they are good or bad I was looking (for my reasons) at JL, Boston, Rockford and Alpine.

I've always considered myself a SQ person, but I like volume so I guess I'm really a SQL person. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Other factors... I'm trying to decide between a sealed or ported enclosure. I like sealed, BUT I'm not sure if my amp with those watts will drive a sub or two to levels that will satisfy me. I thought to myself... I may have to compromise and go with a ported enclosure for more output. Another thing... do I go with (1) 12" sub or maybe go with (2) 10" subs?

Don't laugh...

I see JL has this bass wedge... CP112-WØv3 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - BassWedge.

And a discontinued one... CP112G-W1v2 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - Discontinued - JL Audio.

Those are actually two of my choices. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif For whatever reason it doesn't appear that JL makes any DVC 2 ohm subs that I could wire to 4 ohm that would match up with my amp... if I went with 2 subs instead of 1. JL has 2 ohm DVC subs, it's just that I *think* they may need more power than I have to offer? If you can help I would really appreciate it. Thanks either way. I thank you all.

 
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