Streetwires question

[Opiate117 10+ year member]

I was looking for some power cable to upgrade my big 3 and I came across the psx020r and the ufx020r I couldn't figure out for the life of me the difference between them, anyone know?

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[Ninesvnsicks 10+ year member]

psx020r is Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) and the ufx020r is Oxygen Free Copper (OFC) the ofc is much better and can hold a lot more current.

 

[Opiate117 10+ year member]

sweet thx

 

[Opiate117 10+ year member]

any cable brand recommendations?

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

psx020r is Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) and the ufx020r is Oxygen Free Copper (OFC) the ofc is much better and can hold a lot more current.

I don't know about "a lot", Knu's 1/0 OFC is rated for 300A and their CCA at 250A, not a huge difference.

 

[ejschultz 10+ year member]

I just picked up some of the UFX020B to rerun the power wire in my car. It's pretty flexible compared to other 1/0 I've worked with. I just redid all of my factory wiring to the battery in 1/0 and 2 gauge OFC welding cable. The choice of cable made it extremely difficult to reconnect everything. That's not flexible at all.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

lol, I love how everyone complains about the flexibility of their wire...I don't wanna hear shit until you go to Lowes and buy some 4 gauge. I used their wire for my first system and I swear to god I bet that wire had about 12 strands in it (where good 4 gauge has thousands of strands). That stuff was so stiff you literally had to take it out and bend it into the shape you wanted it before installing it...It was like trying to bend a really thick metal coat hanger.

 

[Opiate117 10+ year member]

haha nice, think I'll need more than 5 feet for a big 3 uparade on an 06 camry

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Also if you haven't yet, check out KnuKonceptz for wire, they sell good stuff

 

[ejschultz 10+ year member]

lol, I love how everyone complains about the flexibility of their wire...I don't wanna hear shit until you go to Lowes and buy some 4 gauge. I used their wire for my first system and I swear to god I bet that wire had about 12 strands in it (where good 4 gauge has thousands of strands). That stuff was so stiff you literally had to take it out and bend it into the shape you wanted it before installing it...It was like trying to bend a really thick metal coat hanger.

That *****. I'm glad mine wasn't that hard to deal with. It was still a bitch though to get everything where I needed it. I ended up replacing my starter to battery with 1/0, my alternator to battery with 1/0, main fuse box to battery with 2, battery to body with 1/0, battery to engine with 1/0, and battery to chassis with 2. I guess I have a "big 6" now rather than a big 3.

 

---------- Post added at 09:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 AM ----------

 

Also if you haven't yet, check out KnuKonceptz for wire, they sell good stuff

I was disappointed with some 4 gauge kit I bought from them for my Jeep. I ended up not using it and picking up a Rockford kit instead. You can't beat their prices though.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

I don't understand the difference between battery to body and battery to chassis...also the fusebox and starter weren't really necessary

 

[ejschultz 10+ year member]

Battery to starter probably wasn't necessary, but the battery to fuse box definitely was. The stock electrical system in a GM B-body with the K68 alternator is garbage. You get a voltage drop when you hit the brakes, turn on the turn signals, honk the horn, or use any of the stock equipment. Also, battery to body and battery to chassis are different if your vehicle is body on frame. Old school FTW.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Battery to starter probably wasn't necessary, but the battery to fuse box definitely was. The stock electrical system in a GM B-body with the K68 alternator is garbage. You get a voltage drop when you hit the brakes, turn on the turn signals, honk the horn, or use any of the stock equipment. Also, battery to body and battery to chassis are different if your vehicle is body on frame. Old school FTW.

Yeah your losing me, I know very little about the mechanical side of cars...

 

[ejschultz 10+ year member]

Basically, you have two types of designs: body on frame (older cars and most trucks), and unibody (newer cars and some trucks). A body on frame vehicle has a seperate chassis and body. This is the older of the design. It's still widely used on pickups and large SUVs because of it's durability and strength, especially when you box the frame. Unibody designs are all integrated. The body is essentially the frame/chassis. Unibody designs are great for building systems because you can ground anything to almost any piece of the body and not have to worry about how that current is going to return to the battery. Unibody designs are generally not as strong as body on frame designs. You also have to be careful where you cut and what you drill into when working on these. You could adversely affect the rigidity of the vehicle. I hope that helps you understand a little.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Basically, you have two types of designs: body on frame (older cars and most trucks), and unibody (newer cars and some trucks). A body on frame vehicle has a seperate chassis and body. This is the older of the design. It's still widely used on pickups and large SUVs because of it's durability and strength, especially when you box the frame. Unibody designs are all integrated. The body is essentially the frame/chassis. Unibody designs are great for building systems because you can ground anything to almost any piece of the body and not have to worry about how that current is going to return to the battery. Unibody designs are generally not as strong as body on frame designs. You also have to be careful where you cut and what you drill into when working on these. You could adversely affect the rigidity of the vehicle. I hope that helps you understand a little.

Yeah it does, thanks, lol