Stock sub + headunit, add aftermarket sub?

[Xenozx 10+ year member]

OK, so I have a 2010 Mitsu Evo, and it is a 9 speaker system running at 2.5 ohm w/ 1 10 inch sub. the stock head unit does offer independant sub control, which is kinda kool and may make it worth while. Heres what I want to do, and I was hoping someone could tell me what I would need to make it possible?

I want to keep the stock headunit for now.

I want to add a 10 inch W6 and remove the stock subwoofer.

I want to use the signal wire that currently goes to the stock sub, and use it on the W6.

I believe I will need to use something to remove the amplified signal from it, so that it is signal only. What would I need to do this?

Is this a feasable situation?

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[Xenozx 10+ year member]

bump

 

[fasfocus00 5,000+ posts]

just get a line out converter and tap into the speaker wires on sub. than RCA out on the LOC to amp. done

 

[Xenozx 10+ year member]

awesome, thank you, yes, that is what i was looking for, i just didnt remember the name. I remember a friend of mine did that with his car to keep the stock head unit.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Scosche+-+2-Channel+Adjustable+Line-Out+Converter+-+Clear/9066093.p?skuId=9066093&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=9066093&ref=06&loc=01&id=1218015169429

That is one that I found. Now my only worry is that the stock sub is 75w RMS per coil at 1.1 ohm. So thats 75x2 = 150w RMS. So I need to rip the 150w out of the lines that run to the stock sub, and mak them line level only. I was reading and some of thse say they can handle 80 watts per channel? Since each coil is considered a channel, and its 75 w x 2 = 150, and the LOC is 80x2 = 160 I should be in the clear right?

but what if its really more like 100w per coil running from the lines to the stock sub? if I install this LOC on that what kind of problems might I run into?

im trying to get more info, but unfortunately, for the 2010's there was a 60w bump in power rating (from 650w to 710w) and I dont know where that power is going so I am worried. The 75x2 i mentioned above was in reference to the 2008 evo, not the 2010.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/oem/assets/2007_Lancer_RaveCard.pdf

 

[Xenozx 10+ year member]

bumpy

 

[DNick454 10+ year member]

Ehhh, be advised, there might be crossovers you don't know about. You need to get a CLEAN unmolested signal so that you will actually receive the full spectrum of notes.

Just to give you a quick example. I installed a system for my friend over the summer and it was an Infiniti QX4 with the factory Bose stereo (a complete pain in the *** to work with). Anyways, long story short, my friend wants bass on a budget so he decides to keep the factory headunit. So after reading several webpages and digging through several wire locations, I finally find the 4-channel amplifier that comes stock and I tap into the outputs and stick a Line-Out Converter in there. After dialing it all in we proceeded to start beatin' the block down //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif We did however notice that it was really lacking in the lows though, even for a tuning of 34Hz. Turns out, the factory 4 channel amplifer has a crossover to take away some of the crazy lows off of the door speakers. Good for the door speakers, not good for using as a signal to drive subs //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Long story short, I ended up figuring out which wires were the low-level inputs BEFORE any alteration and since they were low-level, I just threw the LOC's in the garbage and just spliced RCA ends right in there and put them to the sub-stage amp.

Sorry for the ridiculously long story, just a fair warning, when you're dealing with "upgraded" factory systems, sometimes things aren't as simple as they seem and it's a huge ****ing headache.

 

[Xenozx 10+ year member]

all good, I appriciate the information, but I think i am OK because there is a dedicated rockford fosgate 150w RMS subwoofer for base, and it can be controlled separately from teh stock headunit. TBH the base isnt bad coming from it, but I had a 12 inch mofo in my old car, and its just not the same.

I think I am going to get a 10 inch W6, and should be happy with that, as it will fit in the stock sub location with some slight modification.

I just want to make sure using that device I listed would be good, cause that question is the only thing holding me back from buying everything.

 

[DNick454 10+ year member]

all good, I appriciate the information, but I think i am OK because there is a dedicated rockford fosgate 150w RMS subwoofer for base, and it can be controlled separately from teh stock headunit. TBH the base isnt bad coming from it, but I had a 12 inch mofo in my old car, and its just not the same.
I think I am going to get a 10 inch W6, and should be happy with that, as it will fit in the stock sub location with some slight modification.

I just want to make sure using that device I listed would be good, cause that question is the only thing holding me back from buying everything.

Just by replacing the subwoofer with another one isn't going to make a large difference. Especially on only 150W RMS. Sure, it's a nicer subwoofer, but it's going to be receiving the same amount of power. Also, a ported box would do that W6 much more justice than the little form-molded sealed stealth box.

 

[Xenozx 10+ year member]

oh yea, no doubt. I am going to pick up a JL 500/1 amp too. I am also going to get a bigger 0.9 cf box that goes in that location.

I know a ported box would probably make a much larger difference, but I think with 500w instead of 150, and a real sub in a larger box, will definately give me some decent bass.

I was going to grab this enclosure.