Still Dimming!

the stock alt on a ranger is 95amp and i got one that bolts up from an explorer thatas 130amp or the same price as i was going to pay for the 95 amp

 
Uhm... Get your alt tested at the zone
FUCK THAT!! we did a little experiment recently in which we had 8 alternators tested at our local AutoZone. Every single one failed! two of which where brand new units purchased from an autozone across town, 3 where bone stock ones I had off vehicles here and 3 where H.O. alts, a 150A, 220A and a 300A. To verify they where indeed all good I took them to Beusings Iowa Generator and had every single one tested and every single once passed with "flying colors". I then "discussed" the findings with the area manager and he was just like "we just tell you what the machine tells us"

 
i just put my h.o alt in and it works great until i idle, the voltage hovers around 12 volts. but when i bring it up to say 800-1k rpm then it shoots up to 14.8 volts, my car idles around 400 rpm. drives me a lil nuts. but its a 300 amp alt

 
i'm probably going to get another 30 ft of 1/0 and make another set of runs to see if that helps after i go over all my grounds again

 
i just put my h.o alt in and it works great until i idle, the voltage hovers around 12 volts. but when i bring it up to say 800-1k rpm then it shoots up to 14.8 volts, my car idles around 400 rpm. drives me a lil nuts. but its a 300 amp alt
400 idle? WTF you drive?

when I was running the 6500D or the 4Kw I set my engine idle to like 1K, factory is 600-700 so it wasn't too much more but enough to make a difference in voltage!

 
i'm probably going to get another 30 ft of 1/0 and make another set of runs to see if that helps after i go over all my grounds again
I would put that 30 feet of 1/0 gauge to use by making two runs of ground back to the front battery's negative instead of grounding through the chassis...id bet money you see a very nice improvement //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif just run all grounds from your amp(s) in the back to the rear batt's negative, then a run or two of 1/0 gauge from the rear batt's negative to the front batt's negative. chassis grounds ftl

 
First step before you do anything, get a DMM and at all your power points check the voltage. At the front battery, back battery, and at the amp. Also check your grounds then come back with the results, guessing want do it.

 
well with your lights and heat that will cuz a bad volt drop. yea you have a new alt but u need a bigger one. you can try to bring up the rpms when you are playin your music. is this at idle and are u checkin it with a dmm? or are u goin by the dimming. i get no dimming and i drop down to 12.9 if i have my lights/fogs on. what car/truck you have?
i have stock alt in my escape... 2 batts... hardly get dimmin off about 2500W

what kind of batts do you have?

 
alright i got my dmm today, around 14.3 running at both batteries, i'm not sure how to check the ground... anyone know of whats going on?

 
are you running a line from both pos and neg terminals from front to back and then ground the rear batt as well? also your running a 130 amp max alt. I have a 138 amp alt in my truck with 2 batts in the back and I could run 4800 watts rms in the back off audiobahn high current amps and only drop to 11.6. I got 2 30 farad caps and stayed around 12.7 what I say is this. You have a bat in the back however you have the storage there now you need it to discharge. If the power stored in the batts will not discharge as fast as the amp is pulling it then you will see light dimming because it then pulls from the alt. I know i'm going to get flamed for this but a good cap would probably help your dimming. I know it helped me alot. IF you want to consider what I've said I do still have the caps sitting around if you want one i'll let it go for dirt cheap!

 
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