FUCK THAT!! we did a little experiment recently in which we had 8 alternators tested at our local AutoZone. Every single one failed! two of which where brand new units purchased from an autozone across town, 3 where bone stock ones I had off vehicles here and 3 where H.O. alts, a 150A, 220A and a 300A. To verify they where indeed all good I took them to Beusings Iowa Generator and had every single one tested and every single once passed with "flying colors". I then "discussed" the findings with the area manager and he was just like "we just tell you what the machine tells us"Uhm... Get your alt tested at the zone
400 idle? WTF you drive?i just put my h.o alt in and it works great until i idle, the voltage hovers around 12 volts. but when i bring it up to say 800-1k rpm then it shoots up to 14.8 volts, my car idles around 400 rpm. drives me a lil nuts. but its a 300 amp alt
I would put that 30 feet of 1/0 gauge to use by making two runs of ground back to the front battery's negative instead of grounding through the chassis...id bet money you see a very nice improvement //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif just run all grounds from your amp(s) in the back to the rear batt's negative, then a run or two of 1/0 gauge from the rear batt's negative to the front batt's negative. chassis grounds ftli'm probably going to get another 30 ft of 1/0 and make another set of runs to see if that helps after i go over all my grounds again
i have stock alt in my escape... 2 batts... hardly get dimmin off about 2500Wwell with your lights and heat that will cuz a bad volt drop. yea you have a new alt but u need a bigger one. you can try to bring up the rpms when you are playin your music. is this at idle and are u checkin it with a dmm? or are u goin by the dimming. i get no dimming and i drop down to 12.9 if i have my lights/fogs on. what car/truck you have?