SQ sub w/ tight responce...

If you truely want to discuss SQ, lets talk enclosure, lets talk install, lets talk blending. Then after all that important stuff is out of the way, we can discuss brand names of speakers.
IMO those are very important, but a good woofer is versatile... for instance my DD 2512A I tried 1.75 tuned to 28 and it was fantastic on lowend extension high frequency extension remanded neutral and blended well with my mids crossed @ 50 65 and 80 although it became noticeable where placement was above 65.. not to say it was the best sounding woofer but i was extremely impressed as to how good it sounded below 40hz... reminded me alot of the ID max...

 
massive audio cw is a great woofer for the money...ID v3 should kick ***

RD audio elite v2s when they drop are going to be a reference woofer..

the dayton woofers are decent.. although i like my DD 2500A better
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Well.. Listen to allot of, Slipknot, Korn, WhitStripes, etc... So with the R's the double bass turns into a sort of rumbling...
How much do the IDQ 10's go for? You said they take about 500w?
who built your box? how is it located in the vehicle? what setting are on the subwoofer amp and how are they set? how are your 2 subs wired?

everything you do and dont do effects the way your subs sound.

type r is a good subwoofer and can easily sound sq. no need to sell em.

i bet if you took your car to someone who knows whats up they can set things for you so it all sounds good.

unless your sub box is pure p.o.o.p. (leaking / poorly built etc)

 
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you ever hear any of the listed by any chance? i'm willing to take the bashing from the 2500 surely they can't sound good......

 
you ever hear any of the listed by any chance? i'm willing to take the bashing from the 2500 surely they can't sound good......
I've heard everything except for the alpha v2's, which aren't even out yet, right? I've heard every DD is **** near every size, minus the 9100 series. I've owned 3515d's, 2512's, a 9515, a couple of 1012's...so yeah, I have some experience with them...

 
sq is a highly specialized and also very subjective field

they do have set references for comps but it depends mostly on the user in personal use

if you really dont care about heavy bass output then listen to some of the suggestions for subs you have been given

but remember subs and amps only amplify the signal they are given so u need a good hu and quality amp, as well as a good quality cd or other source, if u really care that much

so without u being extremely specific it will be hard to give quality opinions

 
The HU is not that important. The amps are not that important. The front speakers are hugely important. The sub is not that important. The sub enclosure matters more than the sub.

If the front end is set up right, the sub is playing so very little of the musical spectrum that most any sub can get the job done in the right enclosure. Ideally you want a really strong bass presence up front. 6.5 or 8" woofers in the front that can play down to 50hz or lower. The majority of the "music" is then going to be coming from the front. After that you can go with just about any sub.

 
I've heard everything except for the alpha v2's, which aren't even out yet, right? I've heard every DD is **** near every size, minus the 9100 series. I've owned 3515d's, 2512's, a 9515, a couple of 1012's...so yeah, I have some experience with them...
the alpha v2 are out... what series woofers you owned? my 2512a sounded better than the 95 and 3500 under 40hz for sure... what boxes you used? they really like 1.75-2 tuned low for SQL... anything bigger/tuned higher there loud and peaky.. the massives sound good sealed a bit peaky ported but still sound fine...

 
I look at it like this....

If "SQ" (which is a totally stupid term in the first place) describes the most accurate reproduction of an input signal, then there shouldn't be a question of who likes what.

If "SQ" describes a person's personal preference for how something should sound, then questions can be posed...however, there is already a strong correlation between measured data and auditory interpretation...where there isn't, we need to find that discrepancy rather than just attributing it to personal preference.

These terms are so dumb....people need to specify what they're really asking.

 
if your looking for the lowest distortion driver this means that you are trying to have a very linear design... which in reality is more efficient or is it?

what people fail to understand that what is physically low distortion isn't always ideal for real world applications....

what i mean by this is simply that you can have a very linear woofer in both electrical terms(like xbl^2) and mechanically, but after months of play, those very same linear suspensions aren't very linear any more, and that flat B/L curve with 30mm of linear throw sacrifices so much efficiency, reaching high output levels often mean a large array of drivers and/or a-lot of power or huge amounts of linear throw... in terms by needing so much power and excursion your emitting another kind of distortion.. inductance becomes increasing important so does cone strength and power handling etc etc...

funny how people praise linear b/l curves and how linear MUST BE MORE EFFICIENT so there for output increases and simply forget that its a function of its input signal VIA the voice coil and output is directly related to power handling and its alignment/environment. its a known fact that it takes a marginal increase/decrease of these parameters to be noticed by the human ear... and often times having the proper motor strength/mechanical linearly and power handling results in a more efficient lower distortion driver over simply trying to have the flattest widest KMS-B/L curves..

the average person cannot hear distortion is a sub woofer until it surpasses 10% then we have the "golden ears" that can hear 1%, or at least they believe they can..

having a great sounding driver doesn't always mean its going to have the lowest distortion... but lower distortion IS better, i will agree.. with that being said you have to specify what type of distortion? what order. odd or even? harmonic or inter modulation? how do they affect the signal? do they impede the signal or do they add to the signal?

some woofers are know to have higher amounts of distortion for a given input, but some drivers are more efficient at using that input, while others exhibit different orders of distortion...

some threw inadequate cone strength... some from a progressively stiffer suspension some threw progressively lower motor strength others threw mechanical aspects like group delay.

there are so many forms and sources that none can be over looked..

some peoples prospective is distorted simply by trying to focus on one part/function ... ..

others go as for as a slightly peaked response adds distortion...

so when your wanting to have the best woofers for your application

look for one designed for your output levels (xmax isn't the only function of total output)

in general very good build, good materials(ie adequate cone strength more than one spider if you have a higher mass/excursion/output driver to avoid sag and or breakdown of the material)

having the proper damping from your application

having the proper FS-generally its not a huge deal but FS directly relates to lowend efficiency and extension...

using the proper box/tune for the environment..

placement in the cabin and phasing between the woofers and the rest of the system...

many times this is way to complex for people so they go with reputable brands and what sounds good to them... there it nothing wrong with that but psychoacoustics is a *****...ESP when people to cut others down because its uncommon or unorthodox...

 
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