SQ Setup for Mids and Highs

[FJF 10+ year member]

The spec sheet for those Mb Quart amps can be found here.

I can't say that I've ever seen a full-range amplifier spec'd like the MBQ. If you like the amp, ignore the spec. It's not like they're never posted strange specs in the past.

Almost everyone recommends me to bi amp with the Focal Solid 4, but my concern with it is that it will only send 80 rms to the mids, and I want more power for them!! So that has got me undecided still, and that's why I asked post #42, still left without answer. I don't know if I can bi amp with the JBL amp but sending 90 rms to all channels so as to avoid blowing the tweeters, or send 100 rms on two channels to the mids, and 80 rms on the rest two channels to the tweeters.

1. The difference between 80wpc and 100wpc is of no real consequence.

2. Don't concentrate on the wattage. For all intents and purposes, it's meaningless in this application. Buy the amp you like, bi-amp the speakers via their x-overs, and set the gains with your ears.

And about going two amps separately, I still got no insights onto this! The only good powerful and affordable two channel amp for powering the mids I got available here is the KAC-7203, and I don't know whether if it's a good option to power the mids. The other way is with the MB Quarts I posted, but still don't know because of its frequency response cap it specifies.

Sounds like going with a higher quality 4-channel may be best.

So I really would want to do something similar like bi amping with the focal solid 4, but with more power and still preserving the same quality SQ level. May that be possible with any of the other amps I posted?

What car is this going into and how will the speakers be installed? Do you normally play the system at very high volume?

 

[Bandieramonte 10+ year member]

I can't say that I've ever seen a full-range amplifier spec'd like the MBQ. If you like the amp, ignore the spec. It's not like they're never posted strange specs in the past.

Ok, but even so, what if the real cap is 20khz? This would still limit the tweeters' brightness, and I would enjoy a bit more the music having more ample upper frequencies.

1. The difference between 80wpc and 100wpc is of no real consequence.

2. Don't concentrate on the wattage. For all intents and purposes, it's meaningless in this application. Buy the amp you like, bi-amp the speakers via their x-overs, and set the gains with your ears.

This means that I could bi amp to the JBL GTO1004 and set the power so that the amp sends to 90 rms per channel?

Sounds like going with a higher quality 4-channel may be best.

Well, considering the people's recommendation, the Focal Solid 4 seems to be the better quality than the JBL GTO1004

What car is this going into and how will the speakers be installed? Do you normally play the system at very high volume?

This is going into a 2007 Jeep Liberty, where I will have two SR124-DVC subs in the trunk (for 1300 rms power with the Mb Quart DSC 1500.D), the SR6500 comp will be front stage, installing the tweeters on-axis, and the mids where the stock mids are, powered with the ???? amp(s), and the Pioneer 800PRS head unit. Because I will have plenty of power on the subs, I'm concerned on the power from the comps, wanting the most I can get from them. I normally like to listen the music with the highest volume such that no even a single bit of distortion comes out. (as soon as distortion comes, I lower the volume, though I don't know how would this be with my new system, since before I just had 2 CVR 15'' and 4 7x10 80rms kenwood speakers all in the rear, sounding like shit)

 

[FJF 10+ year member]

Ok, but even so, what if the real cap is 20khz? This would still limit the tweeters' brightness, and I would enjoy a bit more the music having more ample upper frequencies.

The amp may reach higher than 20K, but that's of little relevance. If the Liberty is as quiet as a tomb, and it probably isn't, there isn't much to be concerned with past ~16K. Sure, there's room ambiance and air, but that isn't going to be much of a factor here.

This means that I could bi amp to the JBL GTO1004 and set the power so that the amp sends to 90 rms per channel?

I don't think you understand. Numbers like 90 watts and 100 watts have no practical meaning in this application. Don't worry about it. It's not a concern. Tune the system with your ears and everything will fall into place.

Well, considering the people's recommendation, the Focal Solid 4 seems to be the better quality than the JBL GTO1004

OK.

This is going into a 2007 Jeep Liberty, where I will have two SR124-DVC subs in the trunk (for 1300 rms power with the Mb Quart DSC 1500.D), the SR6500 comp will be front stage, installing the tweeters on-axis, and the mids where the stock mids are, powered with the ???? amp(s), and the Pioneer 800PRS head unit. Because I will have plenty of power on the subs, I'm concerned on the power from the comps, wanting the most I can get from them. I normally like to listen the music with the highest volume such that no even a single bit of distortion comes out. (as soon as distortion comes, I lower the volume, though I don't know how would this be with my new system, since before I just had 2 CVR 15'' and 4 7x10 80rms kenwood speakers all in the rear, sounding like shit)

You did mention that it was a Liberty earlier and I spaced it. My bad.

When you say the tweeters will sit on-axis, will you be building pods for them?

As for the subs, let's go through a basic tuning scenario. Say, your system is installed and you're sitting in the car. Everything is set to flat in the HU, the subs are turned-off. You play a familiar track that's recorded at a high level and adjust the gain on the mids. After that, you adjust the gain on the tweeters as the mids are playing at a preferred volume. Notice how the subs are still turned-off.

Once you're happy with the speakers, then you turn-on the subs, turn them all the way down, and begin to bring up their volume to blend with the front speakers.

So, you see, the power you're giving the subs doesn't have much relevance here. The subs are a secondary factor.

 

[Bandieramonte 10+ year member]

The amp may reach higher than 20K, but that's of little relevance. If the Liberty is as quiet as a tomb, and it probably isn't, there isn't much to be concerned with past ~16K. Sure, there's room ambiance and air, but that isn't going to be much of a factor here.

So you mean that with the Liberty, It would be the same to have frequency response of up to 20khz, than up to 30khz?

I don't think you understand. Numbers like 90 watts and 100 watts have no practical meaning in this application. Don't worry about it. It's not a concern. Tune the system with your ears and everything will fall into place.

My question was more on the technical side. I've never done a bi amp setup, and I don't know if bi amping means that the amp is necessarily going to send all the power it has per channel without possibility of lowering the power the amp sends(e.g. 100 rms per channel) posing a threat to the tweeters.

Also, does any 4 channel amp support bi amping? (this is specifically to know if the JBL amp supports bi amping too as the focal solid 4)

You did mention that it was a Liberty earlier and I spaced it. My bad.

When you say the tweeters will sit on-axis, will you be building pods for them?

As for the subs, let's go through a basic tuning scenario. Say, your system is installed and you're sitting in the car. Everything is set to flat in the HU, the subs are turned-off. You play a familiar track that's recorded at a high level and adjust the gain on the mids. After that, you adjust the gain on the tweeters as the mids are playing at a preferred volume. Notice how the subs are still turned-off.

Once you're happy with the speakers, then you turn-on the subs, turn them all the way down, and begin to bring up their volume to blend with the front speakers.

So, you see, the power you're giving the subs doesn't have much relevance here. The subs are a secondary factor.

Yes, I will probably build some pods for the tweeters. I really understood your description about the subs. Since I'm so new to this SQ business, I got much to learn. When I get my system, I will better understand your explanation.

 

[FJF 10+ year member]

So you mean that with the Liberty, It would be the same to have frequency response of up to 20khz, than up to 30khz?

The media, itself, doesn't support extensional to 30K. Have you ever tried listening to a 20K tone in a moving car? It's essentially inaudible. Which ever amp you get will extend high enough.

My question was more on the technical side. I've never done a bi amp setup, and I don't know if bi amping means that the amp is necessarily going to send all the power it has per channel without possibility of lowering the power the amp sends(e.g. 100 rms per channel) posing a threat to the tweeters.

You're familiar with the concept of gain, right? When you setup the system and blend the drivers, you will set the gain on the amp appropriately. As such, the amplifier will be sending the power that's right for each driver. I honestly don't know how to explain this any differently than what's already been covered. There may be a language issue at play. Perhaps you could search around the web and find an explanation that's easier for you to understand.

If someone else can explain this more clearly, please feel free to join in.

Also, does any 4 channel amp support bi amping? (this is specifically to know if the JBL amp supports bi amping too as the focal solid 4)

The SR crossovers support bi-amping. This means that you'll be using an amp channel to power each driver: 4 drivers (2 mids and 2 tweeters), 4 amp channels in a 4ch amp.

Yes, I will probably build some pods for the tweeters. I really understood your description about the subs. Since I'm so new to this SQ business, I got much to learn. When I get my system, I will better understand your explanation.

I think you'll see how everything falls into place, once the system is in the car. Good luck.

 

[Bandieramonte 10+ year member]

The media, itself, doesn't support extensional to 30K. Have you ever tried listening to a 20K tone in a moving car? It's essentially inaudible. Which ever amp you get will extend high enough.

Interesting. So the SR6500's extension to 30khz would prove to be practically useless. I'm guessing whether if a good sound deadening in the car would allow me to listen higher frequencies.

You're familiar with the concept of gain, right? When you setup the system and blend the drivers, you will set the gain on the amp appropriately. As such, the amplifier will be sending the power that's right for each driver. I honestly don't know how to explain this any differently than what's already been covered. There may be a language issue at play. Perhaps you could search around the web and find an explanation that's easier for you to understand.

If someone else can explain this more clearly, please feel free to join in.

Don't worry, I now understand this.

 

[LaserRed38 10+ year member]

Lol dude, depending on your age, you probably don't even hear anything higher than 14-16k hz anyway! I have that dog whistle app on my iPhone and it's funny to give people random hearing tests. My grandpa doesn't hear past 7k hahaha, but he's 80. On the other hand my 4 year old cousin heard the 20k tone clear as day. I don't hear much past 17k and I'm about to be 22.

It's good that you're trying to do a lot of research, but you're making it too complicated for yourself. Grab the speakers and an amp and play with them! It's the best way to learn. It's just my OCD-ness, but I'd get whatever 4ch amp matches your sub amp. It just cleans up the install and looks nicer to have matching amps when you open the back up for people to look at. At this point in your experience, you won't notice different amp manufacturers' characteristics. And for the record, neither would I, I'm pretty sure.